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Unread 08-01-2020, 01:44 PM   #16
jadnashua
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Some of their pans come with Kerdi already installed...it used to be only the linear drain ones, but they were talking about doing it for the others...do not know if that happened.

Prior to the advent of the preformed corners, their approved method was just the proper folding of the membrane. Done right, it works fine.

Whatever you do, you want at least a 2" overlap of the membrane's surfaces.
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Unread 08-01-2020, 01:52 PM   #17
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Also, some valves have built-in shutoffs...you need enough room to access them, if present. From a practical viewpoint, for maintenance down the road, you don't need to remove the trim to change the cartridge, and the in-line shutoffs may not work (plus, you'd have to take off the trim, so may not know they are there!). In-line shutoffs can be useful during the build so you don't need to leave the water off or install the cartridge that might get damaged while building up the wall and tile.
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Unread 08-01-2020, 02:17 PM   #18
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Space around valve to seal?

Schluter makes a seal for valve body and faucet and shower head.


https://sccpublic.s3-external-1.amaz...ts_nograte.jpg
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Unread 08-02-2020, 06:59 AM   #19
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Kerb from 2x4 and leftover kerdi board

I need a L shaped curb that is around 40" on one side and 12" on the short side
This means 2 kerdi curbs and most of it is wasted. They are also expensive for what they are.
So, I'd like to make my own ones.
Can I just stack 2 2x4s and cover them with leftover kerdi board then waterproof as normal?
The subfloor is OSB so I would just glue and screw them in.
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Unread 08-02-2020, 07:17 AM   #20
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Yes, you could do that. You could also cover the wood curb with Drywall or CBU and then cover it with Kerdi membrane if you prefer.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-02-2020, 09:01 AM   #21
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Hi Gordon,

Wood will work over a wood floor. If your floor is concrete you'll need to use bricks or cement blocks. Wood will draw moisture from the concrete and swell the wood, thus popping your tiles loose.
Over wood floors I used to use a single 2x4 on edge to make a thinner curb. I have also sawn Kerdi curbs thinner on my table saw.
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Unread 08-03-2020, 05:39 PM   #22
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Depending on how much Kerdiboard you have left over, you can laminate it together and use it for your curb.
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Unread 08-08-2020, 06:00 AM   #23
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How waterproof valve cover

I waterproofed the wall and it will be tiled but I got to thinking how do you prevent leaks from going into the valve hole area?
Do I put a circle of silicone around it and then seal the chrome valve cover over the top?
Do you instead put clear silicone on the outside of the valve cover?
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Unread 08-08-2020, 07:46 AM   #24
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The cover/trim plate for the shower valve will likely have a foam rubber gasket surrounding all but the very bottom. If your tile is reasonably smooth, and grout lines pretty full, that gasket will likely be sufficient, unless your shower valve is going to be exposed to a constant spray of water.

That said, Schluter does make a specific shower valve "seal", though it may not work with all shower valves.
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Unread 09-01-2020, 07:39 PM   #25
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Modified unmodified

I'm installing a shower base and have modified thinset spare. Does it really make any difference? Schluter recommend unmodified but our tiler has used modified on all Schluter board and membrane so far and it's absolutely fine.
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Unread 09-01-2020, 07:49 PM   #26
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To what are you bonding, Gordon?

Is this your shower with the 40x60 Schluter foam tray?
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Unread 09-01-2020, 07:53 PM   #27
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Yes. OSB underneath, then ceramic to to the tray/membrane
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Unread 09-01-2020, 08:00 PM   #28
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Modified should be fine bonding the tray to the subflooring...not needed, but fine. It MIGHT be okay on top of the pan...depends on what it is. Not all modified thinsets are created equal...Schluter specifically says don't use a latex modified one. Some modifieds do not achieve stability until their modifiers 'gell' and that can mean dry depending on the type inside the bag. Cement cures at its own rate, regardless.
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Unread 09-01-2020, 08:56 PM   #29
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Please keep all your project questions on this thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

Bonding anything to OSB requires a a modified thinset mortar meeting ANSI A118.11. Schluter has a recommendation allowing their foam shower trays to be bonded with un-modified thinset mortar just to save the installer having to purchase more than one type of mortar. The modified in this case - presuming it meets A118.11, would be better.

Some manufacturers of thinset mortar do not recommend their mortar be used to bond to OSB at all. Might keep that in mind.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-04-2020, 05:11 AM   #30
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How far below the surface can the drain be?
I installed it and used a layer of ditra heat underneath so it would be at the correct height. However, it seems much lower than if there was no ditra heat layer.
Maybe I can fix it up with kerdi fix.
Could just be an illusion because the studs are higher I think the grate would deal with the height adjustment.

This might be a stupid question but why do we use the membrane for waterproofing corners and screws? It seems to me you could just cover everything with kerdi fix and save yourself 5 times the cost.
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