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Unread 03-11-2020, 01:03 PM   #61
cx
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Me, too, PC. Haven't heard a peep since the last time we had that discussion on here and that's weeks ago now. I really hope we don't lose that membrane as it's a superior product in its genre.

Stocking up might be a very good plan, though. Don't think it has any shelf life restrictions. None known, anyway.

I don't plan to build any more showers, but one never knows. Won't bother me to use a Kerdi drain, but I do want that USG membrane.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-11-2020, 05:20 PM   #62
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Looks like a good value indeed. Too bad contractor direct wants $130 to ship the $60 roll. Anybody wanna mail me one?
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Unread 03-11-2020, 05:36 PM   #63
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'Fraid the shipping problem is on your side of the border, Jesse. We had a situation here a few years back where I sent something to one of our members who lives just across the line in BC, I'm thinking Victoria area, and the shipping charge was absolutely outrageous. Seems it would have cost maybe ten or twelve bucks to send it to Seattle, WA, and to BC it was more than fifty bucks. Lesson learned about no good deed going unpunished.

Not sure just what it was we did to piss y'all off this time, but I wish we could work it out.
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Unread 03-11-2020, 05:55 PM   #64
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I'm in Victoria as well. Deal with the shipping problem constantly. It's the carriers that really gouge, and customs is a pain. Large companies can negotiate good rates though. When I order my electronic parts from digikey they come next day for free if I order $100 or more, or only $8 otherwise. Amazon has it well figured too, I wish it was all like that.

Guess I'll have to stick with Kerdi for now.

I won't rely on silicone to seal the desnnshiel seams. I'll either redgard the taped joints or just use some kerdi band type material over them. Won't have to worry about dipping the bottom of the board in the mud bed with the kerdi drain system.
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Unread 03-11-2020, 07:47 PM   #65
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Ummm, with the Kerdi system, whyever would you be using something like DensShield as your backer board?
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Unread 03-11-2020, 11:22 PM   #66
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I'm pretty much doing this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cbd89xV0OpU

But most likely with redgard instead, unless I can get some ardex 8+9, and without the rush. Still getting everything plumb and level, and flat.

Might do a little test of my own and silicone together a densshield box and fill it up, curious. Either way I'll be regarding seams, and I can do the whole wall if I'm not liking the results of the densshield test.

If I had a sheet membrane option other than kerdi I might just go that route on the walls too, but it costs a fortune. Only other options I have are trugard/alino/kobau/IB tools and the like from Amazon. Prova too, but it's just as much or more than Kerdi.

Probably just get the durock band for my kerdi membrane pan, since I can't get the durock membrane, but he durock band is available on amazon and better priced than kerdi band. Might aswell go full Frankenstein at this point.

In the video though, no lath is used in the mudbed, is that ok because he thinset bonded it to the slab? I'll be doing this on the subfloor, so I assume I should use tar paper and lath for my sloped mudbed, like I did in the other shower. Should I do another layer of ply over the 3/4 or just tar paper and then mudbed on that is fine? Pretty sure I just did the mudbed on the 3/4" subfloor for the last one, but can't quite remember. I know I put half inch down on top of the 3/4 sub before the ditra heat and then granite.
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Unread 03-12-2020, 06:46 PM   #67
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Yes, he was working on top of a slab so he bonded the deck mud with a slurry of thinset. On a wood sub floor, you'll want tar paper (or poly) along with lath stapled down before you put down the deck mud.

3/4 plywood is good enough.
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Unread 07-11-2020, 11:48 AM   #68
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It's been a while, I got side tracked, but I'm back on it now. Went with kerdi + redgard on the lower seams and denshield backer. Used some cement board too on the kerb, bench, and a couple places where I preferred 1/4" for less buildup.

Passed the flood test (hard to see water in the photo but it's there) and then rewarded myself with a tile saw upgrade. Only made a few cuts with the dewalt so far but it's very nice to use compared to my old $200 saw. Looking forward to miters with this thing, it's all so stable, nice piece of equipment.

I'm going ahead with the epoxy coated wood. I will treat it like resin backed tile as far as adhesion goes. I looked into recommendations for resin backed tile, and while manufacturers all suggest epoxy type thinset, many people on this site and elsewhere, from my searching, suggest that a good quality typical thinset works fine. I decided to test the versabond on a sacrificial piece of epoxy coated wood, epoxy roughed up with 40 grit paper. I wasn't happy with the bond, didn't work very well at all.

Doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there but this from TEC is helpful:

https://www.tecspecialty.com/hbfulle...tile_r0619.pdf

Would appear my options are epoxy type thinset, a primer, or another coat of epoxy with a sprinkle of sharp sand, of which I have some leftover from the mudbed. I'll do some more testing and see how it all works out. Want to make sure I have a very sturdy bond. Trying some regard currently over the resin and then will thinset bond tile over that and do another destructive test to see if the redgard works as a primer on the resin. Initial scrape test looks promising but I'll have to wait until the thinset cures so I can try to rip the tile up to see how tough it really is.

I forgot to take a picture of my mudbed, turned out decent, well formed anyway, but I still can't seem to figure out how to get it really slick on top like I see in the videos. I used a spray bottle to add a little more moisture before finishing it, which helps, but it just doesn't come out super-slick no mater how I run over it with the trowel. I'm mixing my own with bulk concrete sand and portland cement 5:1, imagine the specific premix bags come out nicer, but it's about $200 in material vs $20. I missed a little chunk of sand during my vacuuming of the bed after drying, or maybe I pulled it up while applying the thinset, could feel it under the kerdi so I cut it out and put down a patch. I imagine being able to get the mudbed super slick would prevent this. Any advice?
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Unread 07-11-2020, 07:45 PM   #69
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Not sure what you mean by concrete sand. Does it have pea gravel in it? Sand is finer, say 1/8 and smaller grit. If it has pea gravel in it then it will be hard to get slick and smooth.
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Unread 07-11-2020, 09:04 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse
I'm mixing my own with bulk concrete sand and portland cement 5:1,
Sounds like what I get from my local redimix company, Davy, which has always been my favorite sand for dry-pack or fat mud.
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Unread 07-11-2020, 09:29 PM   #71
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I like my sand with 1/8 inch grit and smaller. When it gets courser than that, it can be hard to slick down with a trowel. I'd think the courser sand would help the strength though. I guess I've never heard it called concrete sand.
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Unread 07-11-2020, 09:45 PM   #72
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We call the pea gravel stuff "Navvy Jack", "concrete sand" is just like "sharp sand", smaller than 1/8", sharp little pieces. I think I have the right stuff, just lacking skill or some knowledge. I believe I might need a finishing trowel that's a bit convex, would probably help but maybe I'm just mixing a bit dry, not sure. I should mix some more up and just play around, try to get it nice and smooth on the finish.

Not a lot of progress today, but I got some miters on the bench done. Really loving this laser I got, great for layout. Was a bit hesitant with these cheap units on amazon but they have great reviews so I gave it a go, really glad I did. Can see the epoxy coated wood ledge in the background, took another one of the curb in better light. I'll report back on my redgard primer test tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll probably just pick up some epoxy thinset.
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