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Unread 11-28-2011, 05:16 PM   #31
efjellanger
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Is there a way to know whether I'm screwed, or is it best to assume that I am screwed and tear it down and try again?
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Unread 11-29-2011, 11:47 PM   #32
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Whew, okay! I got the tricky sheet with the mixing valve and the shower stem up, and everything went right for once. I realized what my problem was before, I just wasn't getting enough thinset on the walls.

1. Just a sanity check- my thinset this time around was back to cake-batter, and it seemed to work well. I have been a little confused watching the videos online, as they seem to use a much thicker mix, and I'm just wondering what the deal is.

2. Can someone give me some trowel tips? I thought the geometry of the trowel would ensure the proper amount of mortar, but I am pretty sure I was scraping too much off the wall before.

3. I am pretty sure the lower half of the opposite wall needs to come down, there are visible trowel lines and hollow spots everywhere. I peeled a bit of a corner back and the fleece was tearing out, so I guess the Kerdi is a loss. How can I take it down and clean up the wall in the least painful manner? It's been sitting for 2 days now.

Thanks a bunch.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 12:27 PM   #33
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Daytime attention bump!
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Unread 11-30-2011, 12:34 PM   #34
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1- when i install Kerdi, i make it pretty wet. It'll hold a notch, but start to slump on a wall almost immediately.

2- if you hold the correct trowel tight to the wall, angled away from the wall plane at a 45, and perpendicular to the direction of troweling, the right amount will be on the wall.

3- If the fleece is peeling off the fabric, that should tell ya sometin. You got a good bond. Post some pics showing what you're concerned about.
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Unread 11-30-2011, 10:50 PM   #35
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Okay I got the camera out... the restrictions on file size are brutal so here is a huge version. There are visible trowel lines over a lot of the sheet, and when I run my fingers over it several sections make a scratchy noise I assume means there's no thinset adhering the Kerdi to the wall. I can't tell whether or not it's acceptable, but I really don't want problems down the line.

I have another question: I was planning on extending the Kerdi beyond the shower edges- the curb on the left and wrapping around the corner on the right- but I don't know how far. Is 3" on the left good? And about an inch shy of the far edge on the right hand side?
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Unread 12-01-2011, 06:26 AM   #36
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Use a strong light and examine your Kerdi after a day's drying time. It should look uniformly dark. Lighter areas are not bonded. Small unbonded areas (say, the size of about 1/3 the area of one of your tiles) that are not in an overlap region will be OK, since the Kerdi membrane is waterproof, and there will be sufficient attachment to the walls to keep the tile in place. Any other issues should be cut out and patched.

The Kerdi must go from the floor to the shower head and at least as far as the shower door or curtain. 3" beyond the curb is great, especially if using a shower curtain.
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Unread 12-16-2013, 07:36 PM   #37
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I am borrowing a cheap QEP tile saw. When I started it was doing okay, but it started chipping tiles. I found the blade was wobbling, so I bought a new one. The blade still wobbles, which I think means the shaft is out of alignment. At this point it's really trashing my tiles.

Is this a fact of life with a cheap tile saw and cheap tiles? Is there a possibility I'm doing something wrong? Taping the tile before cutting didn't help at all.
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Unread 12-16-2013, 10:42 PM   #38
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I think you answered your own question.

QEP doesn't make a saw worth using IMHO. A decent blade starts at $40 but we normally use a $90 blade.
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