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Unread 03-09-2010, 09:40 AM   #1
RMcD
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McD's shower build

HI
Just starting my project. I plan on using the 48x48 schluter shower system.
2 of the walls are exterior walls that are insulated and have a vapor barrier in them.
I plan on putting new framing for the shower directly against them one will be with 2x4 and other 2x6. The 2x6 wall will house a 3" vent line....the 2x4 wall help make the shower 48" wide making the kerdi fit and can make evrything square
there will be aprox 1' space above the shower the vent line turns in there and will have the exhaust fan in that space also.
My concern is about the space in the new wall wanting to have condensation in it.
also could I run a water line in the 2x6 wall, not sure if the new wall is still considered a exterior wall
we have very cold winters ( manitoba ) here and warm summers.
will have more direct tile related ?'s after framing is done.
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Unread 03-09-2010, 10:09 AM   #2
cx
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Welcome, RMcD. Please put a first name in a permanent signature line for us to use.

I'd be inclined to build those walls such that they'd be ventilated at the tops into conditioned space if possible and insulate them.
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Originally Posted by RMcD
My concern is about the space in the new wall wanting to have condensation in it.
Condensation can occur only when air containing moisture enters or encounters an area or surface with a temperature at or below the dew point of the air. You'll try to keep these conditions from existing in your new walls.

I'd then build my shower per the method of your choice following industry standard methods.

I don't understand the part about using an exhaust fan in only a one-foot space above the shower. Whole bathroom should be properly ventilated by an appropriate exhaust fan.

I would not, by the way, construct a new wall that reduces the size of my available shower space just for the convenience of fitting a pre-fabbed foam shower tray. Mud floors and exceeding inexpensive and easy to make exactly fit a shower floor of any size or shape. But that's entirely up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-10-2010, 01:00 PM   #3
RMcD
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Quote:
I'd be inclined to build those walls such that they'd be ventilated at the tops into conditioned space if possible and insulate them.
The walls top foot is open to the top space which is about 1'x4'x8'. One 1/2 of this is above shower and other 1/2 above the vanity and a sliding shelving unit. there will also be pot lights above vanity.

It is easy to put insulation in the walls.
I could put a grill on it to exposed the area to the room environment...had been thinking about that. If moisture gathered back there would be nice that it is vented...but then you are also exposing that area to the moist air after showers etc.

Quote:
I don't understand the part about using an exhaust fan in only a one-foot space above the shower. Whole bathroom should be properly ventilated by an appropriate exhaust fan.
The exhaust fan is housed in that area and used to vent the washroom.
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Unread 03-10-2010, 03:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
...but then you are also exposing that area to the moist air after showers etc.
That's why we recommend a timer for the exhaust fan. Let it run 20 minutes after you finish your shower, and there won't be much moisture to worry about.

How are your trimming the baseboard and at the ceiling? You could leave a gap in the drywall behind the baseboard and any cove molding and install your trim on spacers.
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Unread 04-25-2010, 02:40 PM   #5
RMcD
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drywall

Read through John's kerdi book. Just want to double check that it is better to have to 2 horizontal running pieces on a wall section then one single piece that has grain running vertical..
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Unread 06-01-2010, 10:59 AM   #6
RMcD
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? about applying Kerdi

Will be applying kerdi in several stages....can I use the thin set to level the drywall joint and then apply the kerdi over it latter ?
anyone use profix 8500 thinset ?
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Unread 06-01-2010, 11:19 AM   #7
Brian in San Diego
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RMcD,

You can thinset the drywall seams with thinset and install your kerdi at a later time.

The Profix 8500 conforms to ANSI A118.1 when mixed with water. I am generally a little suspect of a thinset that pushes one to use an admix to make it into a modified. I guess I have come to trust brands that are more in the mainstream...Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317 or TEC Full Set Plus to name a few.

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Unread 06-02-2010, 09:58 PM   #8
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Reason I asked was I was checking how my trowel size worked and did a test piece with the 8500 and 24hrs latters tried pulling it off was easy and still moist.....tried 12 hrs latter still easy 48hrs after still seemed easy...did a test piece with versabond ( had on hand for laying the ditra down) and 24hrs latter was more cured then the 8500 and was harder to remove kerdi and could hear the fuzz sound like it was ripping this time....
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Unread 07-04-2010, 02:58 PM   #9
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Tiles thinset ?

Picked up Mapei Kerabond and the Kerdi is on. Is there any problem with using the Mapei Kerabond for putting the tiles on the kerdi ?
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