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Unread 04-04-2009, 08:38 AM   #1
Dan Z
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Antioch, IL
Posts: 2
Demo done - now to rebuild questions

I just got finished tearing down the old tile in our bathroom and removing the tile floors nd shower and have a couple of questions about redoing the shower. Approimate size of bath (without shower) 6'6" x 5'

Quick description of old shower and new plans -

The shower is on top of a crawlspace that is 4' tall and is used for storage. The crawlspce has a cement floor so accessing all of the plumbing underneath the bath is easy.

Shower pan - old - fiberglass, 34x42
new - fiberglass, 34x42

Question #1 - Does anyone have any experience with either the Cascade (Homey brand) shower base or the Swanstone R-3442? Do they need to be set in a bed of concrete or can they just be set on the floor? The old one was just set on the floor. And #1.a. - for the backerbaord meeting the base - it appears that the concensus on this forum is to leave a 1/4" gap beteen the top of the flange and the board and fill this with caulk (what types is best?). Is this still okay. I will be using 8" x 10" tile, laid out in a subway pattern.

Walls -

Old - 3 sides tile up to 80". There was a soffit at the top and the top of the shower stall was tiled. The tile was set on cement backer board up to 4', then the rest of the tile was set on greenboard. It held up well (almost 19 years)

New - The soffit was removed (8' ceiling). Cement backerboard (or other type - hardibacker(sp?), durock?) up to 72", covered with tile, then greenboard above 72", primed and painted. What brand backerboard (I need 5/8") is recomended- the real cement type or another new type product?

Since I will be doing this after work, weekends, etc., is it okay to use premixed thinset, or do I need to mix a new batch every time I lay tile?

I am sure that I will have some more questions, and appreciate any advice.

Previous tile experience - 1 kitchen floor, 300 square' (I will never put in a black and white tile floor again, not with kids!), 3 bathroom floors on cement board, 1 tile bathroom countertop.

Dan Z
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Unread 04-04-2009, 10:06 AM   #2
John Bridge
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Location: Rosanky, Texas
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Welcome aboard, Dan.

1. Swanstone is a good product. I have no experience with the other one. In my opinion, all plastic bases should be set with mortar. I make little mounds of fat mud at strategic points and ease the base down onto them. Use your level. When the base touches the floor and is level, leave it alone until the mud sets.

2. I don't know of any 5/8 tile backer. You can fur out your studs with strips of thin plywood or linoleum to gain the depth you need and then install your moisture barrier. Moisture barrier goes down and over the lip of the base. I don't bother with silicone. The tile bridges the gap.

3. Absolutely no to "pre-mixed" thin set. It's not thin set at all; it's mastic. You will learn to make small batches of real thin set that comes in a sack and is mixed with water.
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Unread 04-04-2009, 10:40 AM   #3
Dan Z
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Antioch, IL
Posts: 2


Thanks for the response. A couple more questions -

1. Do I run the backerboard over the lip or rest it in the lip?

2. When I removed the old tile there was no vapor barrier between the backerboard and the studs. One side is agaisnt the outside of the house and it was insulated with paper faced insulation, as was the other (interior) wall. the back wall (interior) had no isulation. Based on your response it appears that I need a vapor barrier between the studs and the backerboard. What do you reccomend as a vapor barrier?

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Unread 04-04-2009, 11:22 AM   #4
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Welcome, Dan.

2. I know USG makes Durock in 5/8ths thickness, but I've never seen it. Furring out the studs would likely be easier and quicker than finding a source.

Furring out the studs may well be necessary to have your wallboard lap over the tub tiling flange, too, which I believe to be a far better installation method.

My opinion; worth price charged.

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