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Unread 10-04-2008, 07:19 AM   #1
x099008
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Starting a new bathroom remodel

Hello All,

Moved into a house Aug. 1 ... need to rip out the bathrooms as they were never updated and had had signifigant water damage to the floor and sub-floor over time.

There used to be 1 1/2 baths...the main bath and a half master bath, that shared a wall...I combined them into one big bath while gutting it.

So now I have an approx 13 x 8 foot space that will be my bathroom.

Layout is as follows, as you walk in the door from the hallway you have a 48 inch vanity with single sink on the right. Past that on the right in the toilet. Then a small bump out piece of wall that hides some vent plumbing, the in the far right hand corner of the room is the door to the master.

The far wall is an outside wall, it has one small window slightly right of center.

When entering from the hall door on the left you have a small 1' area that was framed around some duct work. Then after that I am putting a 5 1/2 foot claw foot tub. In the far left hand corner I'd like to put a glass block corner shower.

Going to tile the floor in white porcelain hexagons...with white 3x6 subway tile part way up the wall.

Will most likely use 6" baseboard throughout most of the room....probably that fake wood stuff that looks like wood but is waterproof....

Which brings me to my questions....

Trying to come up with a game plan on how best to tackle the whole project.

I've been doing a bunch of reading lately and stumbled on this site a few days ago...seems most prefer to do the walls before the floor....so I'll talk about that first.

Currently the room is just subfloor and greenboard throughout, nothing is put in yet...greenboard doesn't seem to popular around here...(:^) So I'll be putting cement board on the walls behind the tile, got some Hardi back for that ... question is

1. How far up do I go with the Hardi back ??
2. How do I transition from the Hardi back to the sheetrock that will go the rest of the way up to the ceiling ?? Haven't seen how to do that in any books so far...
3. What's the best way to go about estimating the heights of the floor, baseboard etc. so that I can layout the wall tile correctly ??
4. Where would you start on the wall ?? Bout halfway up ? Work up ? Work down ? Should I stop short of where the baseboard will be, then wait till the floor and baseboard is in before doing the last row or two of wall ??

I think you get the idea of my general questions in that area...

I think I'm pretty straight on what I need to do for the floor.....lots of info in books and the net about that.....

As for the shower.....

Was originally thinking I'd do a corner glass block shower with a custom tile base the old fashioned way...but as I've found this site I've been reading a lot about the Kerdi shower thing, and now I'm wondering if that might be the best route to go...

Opinions ?

Either way at this point I think I'm going to focus on getting the tub, sink, toilet area squared away and tackle the shower last. Figuring right now as long as I get the shower footprint laid out and the curb built I should be in good shape to do the rest...

What things should I be keeping in mind while building the curb and doing the rest of the bathroom so that I don't mess myself up when it comes time to do the shower ?? Don't want any of those "Crap, I didn't know I needed to do that FIRST!" Kind of moments....

Anyways, that certainly is a big enough post to get started, any info and opinions that people could provide would be most appreciated.

Thanks!
-Jim
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Unread 10-04-2008, 11:31 AM   #2
Davestone
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Yikes,are you sure you're ready? Here"s what i do.If i'm gonna do a wainscoat i wouldn't use baseboard.I would either do the floor first, or do the walls,lay it out on the floor to gauge height, then make a level line at the TOP of the wainscoat around the room(i use a cheap laser for this).I would use a non sag thinset or mastic and work from the top down,at the bottom row i would leave out and do my floor them, and cut my last row to fit the floor on top ,my floor tile.
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Unread 10-04-2008, 12:07 PM   #3
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Like Dave, I wouldn't use a wood base either. When you say "custom tile base" in the shower, do you mean a cove base? You could do the same out in the bathroom area also.

I would work the shower area at the same time as the walls. Just use the Backer in the shower, tiling over the greenboard is fine for the bathroom walls.
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Unread 10-04-2008, 04:23 PM   #4
x099008
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Am I ready ??!! (:^) I wouldn't be here if I was !! (:^)

Ok yeah so start at the top of the wainscot....how high is that usually though...I look at pictures in books and the height I want seems to be around 11 rows...but dont know what the usual height is...I have one of those lasers, so that would probably work well.

And wall tile over the greenboard except in the shower....that's cool.

Leave bottom out, do floor the finish wall, sounds reasonable.

When I say "custom tile base" I mean not a prefab shower base, but one I've built up to my own dimensions with tile/mud etc.

Determined the exact location of the tub today, Lookin like a neo-angle shower in the corner is my best bet...

I'll try to get pics up soon to help illustrate.
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Unread 10-05-2008, 07:34 AM   #5
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You can make your wainscot whatever height you want. Seems like most of the ones I do are between 42 and 48 inches off the floor.

Sounds like you have a wood subfloor and not on a slab, is that right? Are you planning on having plywood and CBU under the tile floor? Or mud? What's your plan?
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Unread 10-05-2008, 09:37 AM   #6
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That's right, wood subfloor...so I was going with plywood and CBU....Hardibacker specifically...

Seem some talk on here about making sure the floor is reinforced enough...using complicated numbers and things, currently I have 2x10s at a 16" span.....subfloor is 3/4 inch plywood with the tongue and groove on it...3 full sheets running against the direction of the joists....even jumping on it feels solid as a rock.....

So I should just pick a top line between 42 and 48 and go for it ?? I can do that !!
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Unread 10-05-2008, 09:57 AM   #7
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Welcome, Jim.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
currently I have 2x10s at a 16" span...
I suspect what you're describing there is the joist spacing, rather than the unsupported span. Need to know both.

Single-layer 3/4" plywood over 16"oc spacing is the barest minimum of subflooring structure for a tile installation as far as I'm concerned.

You should decide the height of your wainscoting based upon your taste, primarily. I've seen wainscot from 32 inches to 54 inches above the floor, depending upon ceiling height, customer preference, and other issues. Pewt it where you want it, as Davy said.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-05-2008, 12:38 PM   #8
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joist spacing, tile spacing etc

That's right, that's the joist spacing.....how do I determine the unsupported span ??

Thought of another question...whats the usual tile spacing for 3x6 subway tile on the wall ?? Was thinking of 1/8, not sure if that's right.

Assuming that type of thing doesn't apply to the octagon mosaic tile on the floor...
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Unread 10-06-2008, 04:38 AM   #9
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Jim, the span is the distance between the stuctures that support the fl;oor joists. Usually, these are the outside walls/foundation, load bearing walls, or beams. If this is an upstairs bathroom, look for interior walls that may support the floor, then check the basement to see if these walls are supported by beams or individual piers.

Lots of times small wall tiles have lugs on the edges that are really spacers. If your do, use them instead of shims or spacers. Otherwise, 1/8" is OK. 1/16" is about is small as you'd want, though. Your Octogon tiles will be sheet mounted, so spacing is pre-determined. You may have to cut a tile free every now and then because of factory tolerance. Use a utility knife to cut the mesh, then slid the tile where it needs to go.
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Unread 10-06-2008, 07:10 AM   #10
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Span

House is 2 bedroom ranch with a full basement...it'll be a simple matter to go down and check the span....pretty sure its approximately 14 feet...which is about the distance from the back of the house to the beam under the center hall.....

No spacers on the tile....I'll have to go with separate 1/16 or 1/8 inch spacers....
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Unread 10-06-2008, 08:42 AM   #11
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Jim, when you go down to the basement, measure the span from the inside edge of the wall to the inside edge of the support beam. No need to go from center to center.
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Unread 10-29-2008, 09:08 PM   #12
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Thinset and stuff

Hello all,

Been a little stalled as life got busy...going to get the 2x10s I need to beef up the support in the basement a bit, hopefully this weekend.

Got a thinset question while I'm waiting though. Told the folks over at Lowes that I was laying my porcelain mosaics on the floor, plus my subway tiles on the wall...they recommended the Laticrete Multipurpose for both...

So I need thinset for under the CBU...for tiling on the CBU floor and for the wall...will the Multipurpose indeed be good for all of this ? Or are there better choices ??
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Unread 10-30-2008, 04:31 AM   #13
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Laticrete Multipurpose is indeed good for all your thinset needs.
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Unread 11-06-2008, 08:59 PM   #14
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Another small question

So mentally preparing for laying the CBU...now my plywood subfloor has been down for a while .... while I ponder, read and order things..and its gotten a bit "lived on" I'm sure I could clean it up a bit, but I'm wondering if it might be beneficial to get a thin layer of new plywood on top...nice new clean stuff to put the CBU on...figure I'll get the benefit of the extra plywood, plus a nice clean surface I don't have to worry about as far as bonding with thinset etc...

If this is indeed a good idea, how thin can I go and still have something useful, if you know what I'm saying...is there like 1/4 thin plywood sheathing that I can put on top that would give some minor strength improvement, a nice surface to work on, and not increase my overall height too much ??

Whatcha think ??

I'm figuring bass ale is going to be the beer for the majority of the project...this is my conclusion after much thought...and with that decision firmly made, feel much more comfortable proceeding...

thoughts ?
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Unread 11-06-2008, 09:31 PM   #15
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3/8ths" exterior glue plywood with no face of grade lower than C is the minimum you can use for a subflooring layer, Jim.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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