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Unread 07-15-2007, 06:34 AM   #31
Brian in San Diego
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Tae,

The "jog beneath the floor" that Chuck recommended would not work because the pipe would still have to come up through the bottom plate. If it were me and the position of the pipe is not where I wanted a bench or a foot rest (for soaping up your legs) then I would build the wall out and take the couple of inches of the shower floor. I think if you ran the vent horizontally, you'd have trouble picking up the vent before the shower drain hit the waste stack. Remember the drain has to be vented prior to entering the waste stack. You'd have to somehow run a branch after you trap the drain over to the vent. That would require notching a couple of joists...not a good idea. I think the easiest option is the new wall.

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Unread 07-16-2007, 12:27 PM   #32
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Brian,

I still may try moving the vent horizontally about a foot. I actually have space underneath the joist at this end of the wall, so I wouldn't have to put any notches or holes when routing the vent back near the waste stack. I would try and avoid any horizontal runs and use a couple 45 degrees to always have the vent rising up.

The one concern I have is that I would probably have to make a 1.5" hole or slightly larger thru a vertical 2x4 support. I am not sure if this is a load bearing wall. I could reduce the 1.5" vent down to 1" when going thru the 2x4 to minimize the hole, but obviously this would not be to code.
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Unread 07-16-2007, 12:35 PM   #33
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Regarding the shower glass enclosure and having to drill thru the kerdi membrane, I contacted John B. and here's his response and recommendation.

Also, attached is picture of a shower that I think is going to look like mine, except with a different tile. Courtesy of Wilson Glass.


The corner where the two pieces join is very strong and will support
itself. I've never tried it, but I'm confident you can install the
glass
with nothing more than silicone in the horizontal areas including the
bench and curb. You WILL use a clip or two at the walls and one on the
front vertical plane of the seat. I wouldn't want to get into an
argument
with my buddy Dave Wilson over this, but I think it can be done.
Whatever
the end result, I do NOT allow installers to penetrate the horizontal
planes. I've seen too many problems as a result of that.

And now, Tae, back to the boards, okay? I'm in Alaska watching the
midnight sun.

John



> Would you recommend the same for the bench area?
>
> -Tae
>
> John Bridge <john@johnbridge.com> wrote: Consider using a small
channel on
> the curb. It's like the bracket only
> longer. It can be secured in place with clear silicone. It might
entail
> taking a couple days for the glass installation instead of one, but
it's
> better than drilling a hole in the curb.
>
> J.B.
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Unread 07-16-2007, 12:39 PM   #34
Brian in San Diego
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Tae,

Looking at the photo you posted in #27, I was under the assumption that the drain and trap would be installed in the joist space that the waste stack is in. (Back toward the photographer in this photo.) If this isn't the case then you are going to have to bore through those joists to get the drain to the waste stack. In the photo what way do you want to reroute the vent?

Is the attic above the wall? In California, most houses are built with truss roofs, so none of the walls on the second floor are load bearing (except the outside ones). A quick check in the attic would verify this. A mute point, because drilling a hole in a bottom plate doesn't compromise the integrity of a load bearing wall. You just don't want to be messing with the vertical studs. I would drill the 1 1/2" hole you need. You don't want to restrict the vent line.

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Unread 07-16-2007, 01:23 PM   #35
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Here is a diagram of what I am trying to do.
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Last edited by dontnomuch; 07-16-2007 at 01:38 PM.
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Unread 07-16-2007, 03:10 PM   #36
Brian in San Diego
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Tae,

UPC states "no vent line shall take off from the horizontal at an angle less than 45* unless washed by a fixture." It also prohibits any horizontal runs which are below an elevation of 6" above the highest fixture by the drain line. The drawing you show will not pass muster on two accounts. The horizontal tee at the waste stack (you'd need a 45* leaving the tee) and the horizontal run (it'd be less than 6" above the highest fixture). IMHO it'd be a whole lot easier to build a wall and put it up, then it'd be a simple plumbing connection.

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Unread 07-16-2007, 03:22 PM   #37
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Brain thanks for your help. I guess I'll abandon that idea. I am trying to avoid having to build another wall. Seems like a lot of work for just a small problem.

My other option that I thought about would be to make a bench in the shape of an L and hide the protruding part of the vent in the bench as you suggested.
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Unread 07-16-2007, 04:08 PM   #38
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Tae,

That would work. You also could sister the two 2x4s on either side of the vent and install a niche in the recess. You'd have a floor to ceiling soffit and applying kerdi and tiling may be more of a challenge than you're willing to take on. I think your idea of the L shaped bench works. If a foot rest would look ok there, you may consider making your bench at the end like you planned and add a foot rest at the pipe location. Best of luck in whatever you decide.

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Unread 07-16-2007, 10:34 PM   #39
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I got some good news. It looks as if I misjudged the depth of the joist underneath the 2x4 where I originally was going to drill a 2" hole for the vent. It looks like there is just enough space for a 2" without cutting into the joist below the subfloor. However, I think I need to move the vent horizontally as shown which will require a 2-2.5" hole in the vertical 2x4. But I could sister a new 2x4 as shown. I think this should work.

Now the difficult question will be how to reroute the cold and hot water lines. Currently, the hot water comes in from the attic down into the bathroom. I think this was done to simplify the piping as the hot water heater is on the second floor. However, the cold water comes from below. I am thinking it would be most simple to just reroute the hot and cold line up thru the attic and back down to the correct wall. Any thoughts on doing it this way?
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Unread 07-16-2007, 11:11 PM   #40
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Tae,

O.K., so you move the vent over to the next floor joist space. Are you proposing to then cut or notch the floor joist so that you can get the drain to the waste stack? In your new drawing is the drain going to be in the left or the right joist space? If you're going to notch that joist, why don't you just notch the joist that's giving you the problem in the original space?

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Unread 07-16-2007, 11:26 PM   #41
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I should state that the reason for doing moving the vent over to the right, is when I opened the subfloor I realized the waste stack doesn't go straight down. Instead it goes down a few inches and then elbows to the left. This would require me to drill a hole thru the joist to get to my new shower drain location.

By moving the vent over to the left, I wouldn't have to notch any joists at all. But would need to drill a hole in the 2x4 which I think is better than making a hole in the joist. The vent would come straight down and tee into the waste stack. The other part of the tee would go to a p-trap and to my new shower drain which will be located between the two joists you see. See new pic.

Any thoughts on the rerouting the water lines?
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Last edited by dontnomuch; 07-16-2007 at 11:43 PM.
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Unread 07-16-2007, 11:42 PM   #42
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Tae,

I answer the easy question first. I would do like you say run the cold water up into the attic and across to where the new wet wall will be located. Since the hot water is there (in the attic) you should be able to take that over as well. Hopefully you have sufficient room in the attic above where the top of the wet wall is.

The vent thing. The picture you have drawn shows the vent (light blue) coming down and I'm assuming you plan on penetrating the bottom plate of the wall. The waste stack is in the next joist space over. In what joist space are you planning on putting the drain for the shower? If you put it on the same side as the new blue vent, you'll have to get it over to the waste stack somehow. If you put it in the joist space to the right of the new blue vent line (where the waste stack is now), then you'll have to get a line from there over to where you've drawn the new blue line. You moved the vent to the left of what I'll call the center joist in your photo, but you still have to connect that to the drain which has to be connected to the waste stack which is to the right of the center joist in the photo. How do you plan on doing that?

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Unread 07-16-2007, 11:45 PM   #43
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I see you edited your previous post after I had started a response. I will ask again...how do you plan on getting the 2" drain to connect to the waste stack that is in the right joist space when the new drain is in the left joist space?
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Unread 07-16-2007, 11:46 PM   #44
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Brian,

I realized what I fogot to explain to you about the waste stack. I edited my previous post above which explains it. Basically the waste stack goes down then elbows to left towards the left joist. I would just cut this horizontal length of pipe and install a new elbow and tee. Hope this makes sense now.
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Unread 07-16-2007, 11:54 PM   #45
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Here's a diagram of the existing waste stack, and what I intend to do.
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