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Unread 07-12-2007, 12:31 PM   #16
dontnomuch
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My other question was never answered..Is there a rule of thumb for how much kerdi-band is needed. I need about 100 sq.ft of kerdi.
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Unread 07-12-2007, 01:02 PM   #17
Brian in San Diego
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Tae,

That depends on your particular shower construction. You'll need band for all four corners plus wherever you overlap sheets of kerdi. I know got too much, but forget how much I ordered. I think you'll need more than the smallest roll. I think to be safe I'd get the 47' roll. Assuming you kerdi to a height of 7', that would give you enough to band 6 3/4 times. Call the tile-experts. They will assist you with any questions regarding Schluter products.

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Unread 07-12-2007, 01:20 PM   #18
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Brian,

thanks for your help and patience. I've got a few more general questions that I've been thinking about. Some of these are well into the future, but it is constantly on my mind

Question 1: I am sure this is a question that has been asked before but couldn't find anything by searching. I am probably going to order a shower enclosure from Wilson Glass. From my understanding, you need to install several supporting brackets on the walls as well as on the curb. Now, the brackets require you to drill through the tile to attach the brackets which will penetrate the kerdi membrane. Will this compromise a water tight seal, or do you just apply some chaulking around the drilled area?

Question 2: I am also planning on installing floor tiles. I am plan on adding 1/2" CBU on my 3/4" plywood floor and add redguard then tile. Does this sound OK, or is the redguard overboard?

Question 3: I am also adding a drop-in tub. For the deck I also plan on using plywood, then CBU, then redguard. For the walls adjacent to the deck, I am most likely using drywall. Does the redguard need to be applied on the drywall as well?
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Unread 07-12-2007, 01:51 PM   #19
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Tae,

No worries! We're here to help as we can.

Any penetrations through the kerdi can be filled with kerdi fix or 100% silicone sealer.

Redguard on a floor is way overkill. You only need 1/4" CBU for floors. If your floor tile is porcelain or ceramic the 3/4" is sufficient. If it's stone then you need to add another layer of plywood at least 3/8" thick, but 1/2" is preferable. You could also use Ditra in lieu of the CBU.

Not sure about your tub surround questions. I have seen people kerdi around the surround. Maybe someone else will chime in.

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Unread 07-12-2007, 02:13 PM   #20
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Even though you use kerdi fix or a silicone sealer, won't water still get in through the surrounding grout onto the kerdi membrane and eventually find the spot where the screw was inserted to fasten the shower glass brackets?

I read another persion's post where they used a CPE liner and had the same concern, but since using a CPE liner requires another layer of mud on top, it didn't turn out to be an issue in the end. However, with kerdi, obviously there is nothing on top of the kerdi except tile and thin-set, so the screw will definitely penetrate through the kerdi.

Others who have installed Kerdi showers, please chime in on your experience with your shower glass installation. Thanks.
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Unread 07-12-2007, 03:08 PM   #21
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1. Good pookey in the mounting holes in the vertical surfaces. KerdiFix or silicone will do.

There are no holes in the top of the curb. Ever.

2. A waterproofing membrane on a bathroom floor is optional. If you think it'll get wet a lot, it won't hurt to use the RedGard.

3. If the wall in question is subject to getting wet, it should not be made of sheetrock, but should be a CBU instead. Or you could Kerdi that section of wall and the joint at the tub deck. The RedGard might help, but I'm not confident about RedGard over sheetrock in a wet area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-12-2007, 03:30 PM   #22
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See below picture. I plan on doing something similar. All of the locations where the brackets are require driiling into the tile which will penetrate the kerdi membrane and may be potential locations where water can get in through the grout, not necessarly from the top where you would chaulk.
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Unread 07-12-2007, 09:39 PM   #23
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Tae,

Me thinks you're over thinking this. I'm not sure I'd make that penetration through the curb, however. The others are not a problem and that's what the kerdi fix or silicone is for. I mounted a better bench in my shower and penetrated the kerdi. Used silicone around the kerdi and into the screw hole. I had the glass installed by a glass guy and he made wall and knee wall penetrations and sealed with silicone.

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Unread 07-13-2007, 08:26 AM   #24
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Fellow forum members, what is your experience with mounting brackets for shower enclosures when building a kerdi shower?? I know you guys/gals are out there? Anyone..
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Unread 07-13-2007, 12:34 PM   #25
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Unread 07-13-2007, 01:30 PM   #26
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Talk to these folks, Tae. Wilson Glass
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Unread 07-14-2007, 02:39 PM   #27
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shower drain and vent

I removed the subfloor and took some pictures of the drain. It looks as if I will not be able to make a 1.5" hole thru the 2x4 as there is a 2x11 joist underneath. Anybody have any bright ideas as to how I can route the drain and vent such that is doesn't stick out of the wall? Please see my first few posts on what I am trying to do with the drain. Thanks.
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Unread 07-14-2007, 02:46 PM   #28
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Tae,

Can you do the jog below the floor line?
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Unread 07-14-2007, 04:24 PM   #29
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Tae,

I couldn't imagine why the original plumber had done it that way...now we know. Where is this going to be in relationship to your shower valve? I was thinking you might build a box around it and make it into a foot rest or something of that nature. If you're setting on making that the wet wall for your shower, you're going to have to come up with some way around it. Your other option would be to sister out the joists for the wet wall and get them to extend past the pipe. (Or build a new wall and notch the bottom plate where the line is.) You'd lose a couple of inches in your shower, but it'd give you a flat wet wall and conceal the pipe.

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Unread 07-15-2007, 12:17 AM   #30
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Chuck, I am not sure what you mean by "jog below the floor line." Please talk in laymen's terms here as I am a DIYer.

Brian, this wall is not the wet wall but will be a side wall. See pic below. If you are facing the wet wall, this wall is to the left. I like your idea of possibly concealing it in a bench; however, the location of the drain is at about 4 ft. Whereas the length of the shower will be 6 ft. I could possibly extend the vent horizontally thru the vertical 2x4 so that it will be right where my bench will be. Do you think that would work?
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Last edited by dontnomuch; 07-15-2007 at 12:27 AM.
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