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Unread 07-30-2007, 03:39 AM   #46
dave on his knees
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Sinkholed: Never knew you could buy silicone in a 5 gallon bucket. Seriously, you have to get rid of all that silicone nothing is going to stick to it, thinset, drywall mud, paint or the tile. I would remove the cbu with the silicone gooped all over it and redo the cbu around the window; top, bottom and sides. Just screw it on. Redguard the bottom sill of the window and up the sides no higher than the tile. Then have your drywall guy tie in the sides and top to the wall. As for your tub side, I always like a few inches of bullnose running along the side of the tub. Good luck. Your not doing the drywall are you??
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Unread 07-31-2007, 11:59 AM   #47
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I could claim it's not as bad as it looks (all that silicone on sill is on a poly flap that I can cut off), but I was freaking out about whippin up some waterproofing under a tile deadline that has since disappeared. So yeah, now that I've been given a stay of execution, I'm planning on ripping out all 4 sides of the window & redoing with fresh CBU.

Couple of questions:

(1) Do I really need to transition from CBU to Wallboard on the 2 sides? The spackle guy (no, it wasn't me) taped & compounded the horizontal seam between the two CBU panels on the wall. Is that ok? And if so, can't he just spackle & feather those 2 small inside CBU pieces where they extend into the "painted" part of the window?

(2) What about the corners where the wall meets the inside of the windows. Should they (partially or in whole) receive wallboard corner trim, or should they receive fiberglass taped thinset corners?

(3) Assuming I can get my hands on it, I *think* I like Hydroban better than Redgard. Less smell, maybe less of a problem with adhesion if I don't get the thickness & the coats quite right? What say you?

Thanks
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Unread 07-31-2007, 11:56 PM   #48
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bumping for question

bumping for question

Quote:
(1) Do I really need to transition from CBU to Wallboard on the 2 sides? The spackle guy (no, it wasn't me) taped & compounded the horizontal seam between the two CBU panels on the wall. Is that ok? And if so, can't he just spackle & feather those 2 small inside CBU pieces where they extend into the "painted" part of the window?

(2) What about the corners where the wall meets the inside of the windows. Should they (partially or in whole) receive wallboard corner trim, or should they receive fiberglass taped thinset corners?

(3) Assuming I can get my hands on it, I *think* I like Hydroban better than Redgard. Less smell, maybe less of a problem with adhesion if I don't get the thickness & the coats quite right? What say you?
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Unread 08-01-2007, 04:24 PM   #49
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bump

bump
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Unread 08-01-2007, 05:45 PM   #50
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I think you got a lotta people scratchin' their heads, Bob, including moi.

I honestly don't see a way to try to finish a tile job with what you have. You really do need to get rid of all that silicone you have piled up everywhere. Just no way to deal with that in a tile installation that I can conjure up.

I really think, especially now with the bowdarkskull having mudded your CBU with sheetrock mud, that the best approach might well be to take it all down and do it over. There is really no need to make all that patchwork around the window and have those little pieces of sheetrock and CBU cobbled together. A fella can just wrap the whole inside of the window with CBU, waterproof the tiled portion, and finish the rest with the sheetrock mud while finishing the walls above.

If you elect to tile only part of the window/window wall as it appears is the plan. Waterproofing all the window area and tiling it as a "feature" might work out better for you, but I could make it work fine with the half-and-half approach if that's what you want.

1. The "spackle" is unacceptable on the shower wall. See above for the window treatment.

2. Not sure I understand exactly where you're talking about, but there should be no sheetrock corners or trim pieces of any kind anywhere you plan to put tile. Gets in the way big time.

3. I've never used Hydroban. But for any paint-on waterproofing product you must get it on as specified by the manufacturer. Keep in mind that their instructions will be for the minimum you can get away with. That's so their instructions don't make their competition's product look easier or more efficient.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-04-2007, 03:52 AM   #51
sinkholed
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Morning everybody Thanks for talking me down on my other panic thread
[ http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/show...5&page=3&pp=15 ]

Now, where we were?

Quote:
Hope it all works out. Post some picks of the 'What you looking in here for?'
Quote:
It's Friday...what's happening?
What's happenning is that, despite the gods seeming to conspire against us, we soldier on ...

Plan to finish electric Thursday night short circuited when my 75 minute commute home turned into a near six hour nightmare. [ Overturned dump truck trapped lots of NJ commute-homers behind it, and one poor guy trapped in it ... http://www.nj.com/news/ledger/jersey...960.xml&coll=1 ]

Tent & tables were delivered & set up. Carpeting (a whole nother story) got installed. As did toidy and sink. "Houston, we have plumbing!"

We're at T-minus 10 hours and counting, and still have LOTS to do. I'll leave you with a few pictures showing where we be right now. There's no way we'll finish everything in time, but hopefully we'll pull enough of it together to at least make people wonder "what IS behind that there shower curtain?"
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Unread 08-04-2007, 03:59 AM   #52
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Pitchers at T-minus 10 hours & counting (page1 of 2)

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Unread 08-04-2007, 04:01 AM   #53
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Unread 08-04-2007, 08:59 AM   #54
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Wow, looking good! Nice threshold, good looking diagonal floor, vanity is sharp! But why is it men always take pitchers of the bathroom with the seat up??

Oh, the towel racks work better on the wall too.
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Unread 08-04-2007, 09:14 AM   #55
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Simple Marge, there's no reason to lower it untill we're ready for it to be lowered.

CX already mentioned it but I would scrape the texture, bedmud and paint off where the tiles will be going. With some measuring you can figure where the tiles will go to and draw a line plumb up the sides and level around the top. Scrape it to within about 1/2 inch of the line. Wipe it with a wet sponge to make it come off easier. It needs to be really clean.
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