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Unread 04-25-2014, 01:09 PM   #1
JimCharles
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
First time shower build

Hello all,

I have a few questions about building a tile shower for my upstairs bathroom, but first I think we need some background. The house I bought was a flip job (never going there again) and the guy finished the attic of the cape cod into a bathroom, laundry room, and master bedroom. He used a cheap Lowes corner shower that inevitably started leaking. I'm ready to replace it and while I really don't want to spend too much because we want to get out of the house sooner rather than later I have rethought my original plan of putting in another cheap shower kit.

I just want to make sure I have all of my bases covered before I really get into this. I'm going to hopefully replace the door with a pocket door depending on what it looks like when i rip out the rest of the shower. I plan on using a Swanstone neo-angle shower pan set in a mortar bed. The current shower is 38" square (well, round, but you know what I mean) and it sticks past the door. I may be able to move the right wall over a bit, but I'll probably be using a 36" pan. For the walls, let me know if I have this right. I need to put up some 4mil plastic and then the hardibacker? Or I can use redgard (sp?) on top of it? Or both? If the plastic, how far down does it go? It overlaps the lip, but how far? Do I cut it back after putting the hardibacker up? What else should I know?

This would be my first wall tiling job, but I have tiled the kitchen floor and countertop, part of the living room at our front door, and the downstairs bathroom floor. (I got a lot of advice from browsing the forums here for the kitchen project.)

Also, notice that he didn't have enough room for the shower door and ran it right into the ceiling.
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Unread 04-25-2014, 01:24 PM   #2
Richard Tunison
Retired Tile Contractor
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Homosassa Springs, Fl
Posts: 2,689
Hi Jim and welcome.

You will use the poly or the liquid membrane but NOT both. Makes a "moisture sandwich".

If poly, let it hang right in the receptor (for protection while you embed alkali resistent fiberglass mesh tape into thinset on the seams and corners) until your ready to tile, then cut if flush with the backer board.

If using a liquid surface applied membrane you will want to pick up a wet film gauge so you can apply the product to the correct thickness for both layers.

Good luck and take lots of pictures for the forum.
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Unread 04-27-2014, 08:43 AM   #3
Oebur
Sean
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 105
You might think about building a third wall so that you can install a standard door afterwards. It will be a bit tight getting in and out but it looks like its a small space anyway. You could also move the fixture onto the new wall as well, which will make using it much easier.
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