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Unread 09-15-2012, 05:16 PM   #1
RFlaggNY
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I'm stacking Durock too

Hi Gang,

My first post. I'm a newbie about to tile a bathroom. I've bought the 32" x 60" Kerdi kit with the 10" off center drain.

Due to pitch problems I must platform my shower pan by 1-1/2". I had three 1/2" sheets of Durock so I cut and fitted them into the space, with a 1/4" gap around the sides facing the greenboard.

I too am wondering if this an acceptable method, and if I should obtain 2-1/4" stainless steel fasteners.

Any help appreciated.

-Randall
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Unread 09-15-2012, 06:18 PM   #2
muskymike
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Hi Randall, welcome! I split your post off the thread it was on and gave you your own thread. I wouldn't stack the durock, instead I would use a SLC to level up the area.
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Unread 09-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #3
RFlaggNY
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Hey Mikey....

Thank you Mike.

I've been dreading the thought of having to use SLC. More work. I had those three Durock sheets on hand, and finished cutting and fitting them.

Rats. Now I have to seal things up. How do people seal the gap between drywall and subfloor? Latex or silicone caulk? How do I build a coffer dam around the drain hole in the OSB? I'd guess you use plywood to dam the front of the stall where the Kerdi curb will go, to keep in the goop. Should I grease (Vaseline?) the forms so SLC don't stick to 'em?

Any thoughts appreciated.
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Unread 09-15-2012, 07:39 PM   #4
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Welcome, Randall.

Maybe you aughta tell us a bit more about this "platforming" you intend to do. If that means raising the shower floor an inch and a half, I'd likely recommend you put aside the Kerdi tray and make a mud bed for your shower floor.

SLC will work, of course, but MuskyMike comes from a very wealthy family and they don't worry about tossing away a few hunnert bucks on SLC when twenty bucks worth of deck mud will do a better job and eliminate the need to spend another hunnert or so for that foam tray.

Tell us what the situation is and let's talk about it.

I agree with MMike that stacking the CBU is not a good idea at all.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 01:41 AM   #5
RFlaggNY
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Hi cx. It's late here, and I'm tired and a bit grumpy. Please excuse me if I'm a bit short.

I have bought the Kerdi kit. I'm using the foam pan. I've never tiled before and I am not going to entertain any thoughts about doing a hand made mud bed. That appears to be way beyond my skill set and I do not want to attempt it.

I'm 16 months into this project. I've demo'd the bathroom, jacked the floor and fixed a cut joist with LVL and galvy hangers, new interior wall with a pocket door, replaced all cast iron/galvy d-w-v lines with PVC from roof to basement, new sub-panel to second floor and rewired two bathrooms and most of the second floor with nine new circuits, new casement window, ceiling fan with a new hole in roof for the vent, sistered sagged joists and shimmed and leveled subfloor to 1/32" accuracy on the x-y-z axis. The subfloor is as level as you can make it. Spent days and weeks shimming the studs and to bring the drywall to near flat and plumb. Isulated the exterior wall to R30+. New 3/4" pex lines for both new and the master bath. Built manifold for the pex lines in the basement.

This has taken 16 months so far. I'm not interested in learning to mud pan. The cast iron demo and PVC learn-as-I-go without a helper install was enough.

This bathroom is only 5' x 7'. SLC might be one bag (at most) and is $32 at Big Orange. My calculations show I need to raise the shower pan so the Kerdi drain and tailpiece is above the P-trap. There is no access from below.

I might also encapsulate the electric radiant floor heating elements in a second SLC pour, instead of modified thinset onto it.

Is there any reason why SLC can't work?

Any thoughts appreciated.

-RF
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Unread 09-16-2012, 06:08 AM   #6
Brad Denny
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This ka'tet would benefit from some pichers of your structure and the bathroom, say thankya.

You may wanna look at this Technical Data Sheet for the Level Quick RS sold in most HD's. I think you'll need like 8 bags to achieve the maximum 1" in your situation.

Take a look at the topics in our Liberry for some deck mud info and to double check anything you might have done up to this point.

I think the mortar bed is the best bet, it isn't that difficult to learn. Folks on here do it all the time.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 09:15 AM   #7
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What Brad said.

Bein' grumpy is fine, Randall, as is spending $400 for SLC instead of learning to do deck mud for $20, but the mud will give you the better job with less hassle.

You may be able to get the cost of your SLC down a bit closer to $300 if the particular SLC you choose allows some pea-gravel to be added into the first layer. Not sure all of'em permit that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 02:12 PM   #8
RFlaggNY
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Here's a video...

Thanks for all the help.

I didn't realize the SLC is so expensive.


Here's a link to a video I just made on the project. I think all my questions and concerns are within it:

http://youtu.be/yIL9SfkiyoM

I'll go look at the library files.

-RF
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Unread 09-16-2012, 03:35 PM   #9
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Can't tell how you raised the bathroom floor, but I see large gaps under the CBU at the door. Can you describe how you raised the floor?

If you plan to bed your CBU in that CustomBlend thinset mortar, that's fine, but I recommend you not use it for any other purpose in that project.

I think you are going to be very disappointed in the result of cutting up a Kerdi foam tray in your application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 04:31 PM   #10
RFlaggNY
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Why won't the kerdi pan work? I was told by Schluter tech support you can cut it to fit non-standard spaces.

For a look at my framing efforts watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQ_VoRpyI5I

I went above and beyond what any "Pro" would do.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 04:40 PM   #11
RFlaggNY
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Also, there are two bags there. I only bought two to start with. I'll buy more later when needed.

I bought one bag of modified and one of unmodified thinset. Unmodified for the Kerdi cloth, and modified for the tile. At least that's what I was told.

Thanks,

-RF
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Unread 09-16-2012, 08:26 PM   #12
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Randall, you can certainly cut down a Kerdi tray to fit your opening, but if you've not cut the same amount from each edge you'll no longer have the same rise at the perimeter of the shower.

I really recommend you visit the Schluter website and download their Kerdi Shower Installation Handbook. It'll have all the information you need to make decisions on their installation requirements, such as for the type of thinset mortar to use. They do not recommend modified thinset mortar for any part of a Kerdi shower installation, for example. Again, specifically for the bag in your photo, I don't recommend that mortar for any part of your Kerdi installation.

As for your framing, while that gluing together of pieces of OSB to make structural framing may seem like a good idea, I wouldn't carry that beyond the small blocking sections you're making there. And those little angle braces are not really a sufficient connection for floor joist members. It'll all likely work OK in your present application, but if you get to any place that is going to be more than a subflooring nailer, I hope you'll go back to more conventional framing methods.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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