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Unread 04-06-2019, 01:41 PM   #61
John Bridge
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Hi John,

A lot depends on how much the plank tiles might be "cupped" or warped. The closer you get to 50% brick joint the worse the lippage will be. Some planks are worse than others, but in my experience they are all warped somewhat.

As to design, you can certainly overlap the courses at random distances.
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Unread 05-12-2019, 09:48 AM   #62
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Wet Room Project Question and Thread

Hello,

I am preparing my framing for my Kerdi board installation and I have one stud that is probably 1/8" out of plane. I am considering "wet shimming" the stud when I install the board. I guess I could also rip some shims with a table saw but I'm curious to hear how a pro might approach this. I did the framing and I hand picked all the 2x4s so it's actually pretty flat. My research shows me that it's important to have a perfectly flat wall to make the tiling easier. I'm a newbie at tile but I am looking forward to starting this project (I REALLY need a bathroom).

Note: I decided to title the thread more generally so that I can ask questions along the way. I originally was going to ask a "wet shim" question but the moderators make a good point to keep a project thread in one place so folks can follow along.

Thanks in advance.
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Unread 05-12-2019, 10:23 AM   #63
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Yes, we do like to keep whole projects on a single thread, John. I've combined your previous threads here.

At your stage of that wall construction, the easiest way to bring the errant stud into plane might be to replace it. But if you're out only 1/8th-inch (we can't see where), shimming or planing the stud might be effective. For that little bit you might find cardboard drywall shims to be the best approach if you intend to shim. Shims ripped from dimension wood tend to split too much for my liking. And folded strips of roofing felt have been used for decades for that application.

Schluter's KerdiBoard installation method of wet shimming with thinset mortar is a very poor approach as far as I'm concerned.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-14-2019, 06:14 PM   #64
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Ok. I am almost ready to purchase my Kerdi board but I have a small section of framing to do. I have a couple dumb questions... sorry. I am attaching a rendering of a small section of wall that I have to frame. It will be around 24" long and a sliding barn-type door will close the space when in use. My question is about bullnose tile. If my tile doesn't come with bullnose pieces, can I finish the edge with a piece of wood trim as I indicated in my drawing? How does one typically go around an outside type corner with tile if my pieces are basically 8x48? I don't really want to switch to another kind of tile. Sorry for the dumb question. I just don't understand how tilesetters do an outside corner if the tile chosen doesn't come with bullnose pieces. Also, if I am asking the wrong question, please steer me back and tell me how to approach this detail.

I am grateful for all the advice I have gotten thus far. This thread will be very active soon... I REALLY need my bathroom.

Thanks.
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Unread 07-14-2019, 08:21 PM   #65
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So long as your waterproofing continues out that far I would see no problem at all with that if it fits your aesthetic plan, John. You'll want to leave a gap between the tile and the Ipe and fill that with a flexible sealant rather than grout, even though I wouldn't expect a lot of movement from the Ipe side at all.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-14-2019, 08:28 PM   #66
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John, I've used bullnose tiles that matched pretty close that didn't have the wood grain look.
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Unread 11-12-2019, 05:04 PM   #67
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After a long hiatus, I have finally completed the exterior of my building and I am now starting in earnest on the wet room. I have done a couple Schluter workshops but I might have a few tile (non-Schluter) questions...

I have my Kerdi board material list ready to go.

I will be purchasing the washers but I would like to use these high-quality exterior grade GRK R4 deck screws instead of the Schluter (aluminum?) screws. These GRK screws are a lot stronger (and I have plenty). Does this sound OK?

As I mentioned earlier, I like the wood plank tiles but I am starting to understand the warpage/lippage concerns raised by another forum member. I definitely see how the client buying cheap big-box store tile and handing it off to an experienced tile-setter can be a recipe for disappointment. Additionally, I can see why a pro would want to source the tile themselves. I am looking at some Arizona varieties but I am wondering if I should perhaps reconsider what size/style tile I go with so that I get a good result. I have been advised that Crossville makes high quality tile. I recently also learned about rectified vs. non-rectified edges... Essentially, is there a size of tile for walls and floor that might yield a better installation result for a novice? I did help a friend recently with a project so I did get a little experience but I want to get a good result on my project.

I am getting a Kerdi shower pan, 1/2" Kerdi board and I'll be using Schluter All-set for everything.

I'll start with these questions for now but I am getting the Kerdi next week.

Thanks in advance and I'm looking forward to getting started.
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Unread 11-12-2019, 08:03 PM   #68
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I can't say about the screws, maybe someone else can.

If you can keep the stagger to within 1/3rd then that'll help a lot to avoid excessive lippage. Also, getting the walls as flat as possible will help a lot.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 07:09 AM   #69
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From one novice to another, I think any particular tile size presents it's own challenge, John; handling, layouts, cutting, setting. I think larger tiles are easier to keep straight, assuming they are uniform in size.

Davy's mention about getting walls (and floor) as flat as possible is not to be taken lightly.

A professional tile setter can probably get away without, but us mortals can benefit from one of the many anti-lippage systems available. I used high quality, pretty darn flat, 12X24 rectified porcelain tile for my floor and walls, and employed the Spin Doctor system to control lippage with what I think are fantastic results.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 07:13 AM   #70
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BTW, I noticed the Geberit carrier you have installed. Be certain that thing is well framed, especially at the top.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 09:55 AM   #71
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Thanks for the recommendation on the Geberit. I notched the header so that it runs behind the 8x8 post. I might run a couple more structural screws into the trimmer next to the post.

I was curious if it might be possible to apply a waterproofing membrane to the CDX on the floor before placing the Schluter shower tray. My joist spacing is very robust (~ 10" OC). I know this forum is Schluter specific so I am assuming I'll be told just to stick with Schluter products and go...

I ended up watching a really nasty failed shower installation video that had a Noble linear drain with a failed factory flange-membrane connection and I got sort of spooked.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 10:01 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John
...a really nasty failed shower installation video that had a Noble linear drain with a failed factory flange-membrane connection...
Please give us a link to that video or to its source, John.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John
...if it might be possible to apply a waterproofing membrane to the CDX on the floor before placing the Schluter shower tray.
Schluter would not be happy with the CD grade plywood subfloor under their foam tray.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 04:02 PM   #73
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Here's the video I mentioned.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYEzZa4n5xE

I'm not sure what the problem is with 3/4" CDX plywood. I triple checked that with 2 Schluter reps and they say it is fine.
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Unread 11-13-2019, 04:36 PM   #74
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schluter lists:
Requirements
Plywood, OSB, or concrete subfloor must be clean, even, and load bearing.

in the handbook. Does not mention grade, they also allow OSB...
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Unread 11-13-2019, 05:18 PM   #75
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They don't need to, Mike, it's part of the tile industry standards that the subflooring or underlayment must ensure L/360 deflection standards are met under live load and concentrated load conditions. That cannot be ensured with the allowable voids, both in the surface ply and internal plies of a CD grade plywood.
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