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Old 04-06-2019, 01:41 PM   #61
John Bridge
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Hi John,

A lot depends on how much the plank tiles might be "cupped" or warped. The closer you get to 50% brick joint the worse the lippage will be. Some planks are worse than others, but in my experience they are all warped somewhat.

As to design, you can certainly overlap the courses at random distances.
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:48 AM   #62
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Wet Room Project Question and Thread

Hello,

I am preparing my framing for my Kerdi board installation and I have one stud that is probably 1/8" out of plane. I am considering "wet shimming" the stud when I install the board. I guess I could also rip some shims with a table saw but I'm curious to hear how a pro might approach this. I did the framing and I hand picked all the 2x4s so it's actually pretty flat. My research shows me that it's important to have a perfectly flat wall to make the tiling easier. I'm a newbie at tile but I am looking forward to starting this project (I REALLY need a bathroom).

Note: I decided to title the thread more generally so that I can ask questions along the way. I originally was going to ask a "wet shim" question but the moderators make a good point to keep a project thread in one place so folks can follow along.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:23 AM   #63
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Yes, we do like to keep whole projects on a single thread, John. I've combined your previous threads here.

At your stage of that wall construction, the easiest way to bring the errant stud into plane might be to replace it. But if you're out only 1/8th-inch (we can't see where), shimming or planing the stud might be effective. For that little bit you might find cardboard drywall shims to be the best approach if you intend to shim. Shims ripped from dimension wood tend to split too much for my liking. And folded strips of roofing felt have been used for decades for that application.

Schluter's KerdiBoard installation method of wet shimming with thinset mortar is a very poor approach as far as I'm concerned.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:14 PM   #64
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Ok. I am almost ready to purchase my Kerdi board but I have a small section of framing to do. I have a couple dumb questions... sorry. I am attaching a rendering of a small section of wall that I have to frame. It will be around 24" long and a sliding barn-type door will close the space when in use. My question is about bullnose tile. If my tile doesn't come with bullnose pieces, can I finish the edge with a piece of wood trim as I indicated in my drawing? How does one typically go around an outside type corner with tile if my pieces are basically 8x48? I don't really want to switch to another kind of tile. Sorry for the dumb question. I just don't understand how tilesetters do an outside corner if the tile chosen doesn't come with bullnose pieces. Also, if I am asking the wrong question, please steer me back and tell me how to approach this detail.

I am grateful for all the advice I have gotten thus far. This thread will be very active soon... I REALLY need my bathroom.

Thanks.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:21 PM   #65
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So long as your waterproofing continues out that far I would see no problem at all with that if it fits your aesthetic plan, John. You'll want to leave a gap between the tile and the Ipe and fill that with a flexible sealant rather than grout, even though I wouldn't expect a lot of movement from the Ipe side at all.

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Old 07-14-2019, 08:28 PM   #66
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John, I've used bullnose tiles that matched pretty close that didn't have the wood grain look.
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