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Unread 03-29-2020, 03:21 PM   #31
Gozo
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I had very the same issue. On dealing with the joist, you can’t (aside from moving the joists and doing some major restructuring of the house). I used the foam pan as well and cut it to fit and then used a tile border with varying tapers to get a level surface to build from there up. It matched with the planned design. YMMV.
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You can fill any non-foam edge gaps where you cut down or shifted the pan with mud and go from there. It’s a bit tedious, but for me it beat doing a mud pan and tearing it up 20 times.
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Unread 03-30-2020, 05:07 AM   #32
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Well, I spent a fair amount of time with the Mrs. last night going through options I could find on my own, and have decided to push the shower wall out and use the full 38" width of the Schluter pan. That will let me just clear the joist, will give us a level bottom row of tiles and make more room in the shower. This was my first choice all along, even before the joist issue.

I was able to confirm the floor under the tub checks as near perfectly level as I can read my 4ft Johnson level. I couldn't build it more level if that was my highest priority, so that was good news.

For any that are interested, I did find another option for moving the drain where a joist (or cement floor) is a problem. Schluter/Kerdi make a compensation board, which is just another layer of foam, deep enough to trough a drain line into, used with a horizontal outlet drain. Looks like it adds nearly 3" to the shower floor height though, and also another chunk of cash for another foam layer.
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Unread 03-30-2020, 07:00 AM   #33
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You and Mrs. Steve will be pleased with the increased width of the shower, Steve, 30" is really narrow and, possibly, not code compliant.
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Unread 03-31-2020, 04:47 AM   #34
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I feel like I am wearing out my welcome here, especially since I haven't even started the tile process, BUT this one might be easy. I've Googled this to death and cannot get a solid answer. Why should I, or do I not need to, insulate behind the shower walls? The old 1 pc fiberglass tub was insulated three sides, even the little stub wall that is wholly in the bathroom. I completely get insulating any exterior wall, but I believe I have the air barrier and vapor barrier under control already with Kerdi board to the ceiling planned. I don't believe R13 will do much in the way of noise suppression, especially minus the fiberglass enclosure now, which seems to act a bit like a big drum.

To be clear, all my shower walls are interior, 1 to a bedroom, 1 to a hallway, and the other 2 walls (wall and a half) will be completely in the BR.

Insulate or skip it?
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Unread 03-31-2020, 07:48 AM   #35
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Steve, all your questions are welcomed here. So many of the contributors, Pro's and DIY'ers alike, possess a great deal of knowledge and experience that extends far beyond setting tile.

Fiberglass insulation isn't the best at attenuating sounds but it is better than nothing, and compressed FG is better than non, as it also help dampen the drywall itself thus reducing vibrations. Mineral wool batts would be better - they're denser, but not as available at the big box stores.

If it were my shower I'd insulate it even if I had only standard FG available. Since you're going with foam board be sure to defeat the paper facing on the FG by slitting it a bunch of times after you hang it, thus avoiding moisture accumulating between the face of the paper and the back of the foam board.

Anytime I strip an interior wall of its drywall in my home I always add insulation to it. It's inexpensive and every little bit helps.

IMO, natch.
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Unread 03-31-2020, 08:15 AM   #36
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Dan, thank you and that was excellent information all around and on the paper facing since that was another concern I had. I can actually get the mineral wool batts locally, and will pick them up this afternoon on my way home from work.
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Unread 03-31-2020, 08:19 AM   #37
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Happy to help, Steve.

Be sure the MW batts you get are the right size for the studs you have - MW batts don't compress like FG does.
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Unread 03-31-2020, 10:19 AM   #38
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I can get 15" batts. I do have a couple of spots that will be narrower, but I think I can figure out how to cut those down. More Googling to learn about mw handling/install.
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Unread 04-02-2020, 05:01 AM   #39
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I got the new shower wall framed in and on to my next question that I hadn't thought of until now. "Mrs. Steve" has a shower faucet with 2 handles and a pivoting tub spout. She really wanted to be able to fill a tote (with high volume water flow) to bathe the dog since we've now removed the last tub in the house. In any case, I don't really want to get into the soundness of the faucet decision. I've tried to get a Moentrol system approved, but nada to this point.

My question is about waterproofing the 2 stub outs for this faucet. It uses ~1" pipe nipples through the wall, and I plan to rough the plumbing Saturday. Need to check that size. Are the Kerdi pipe flange seals effective? This faucet will likely see a lot of water splashing against the wall above it. Is Kerdi Fix a good idea here?
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Unread 04-02-2020, 06:44 AM   #40
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Would dog baths not be an easier task using a hand held shower? Eliminate the fixed shower head, install a hand held that also slides up and down on a bar. And for further discussion between you two Steve's, I believe a temperature compensating shower valve (anti-scald) is required by code and I don't know that the two handle valve that has been decided upon has that feature.

But to your actual question. The Kerdi seals can't help but work, and if I were to use them I'd stick with thinset mortar to, well, stick them in place.
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Unread 04-02-2020, 09:57 AM   #41
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Thanks Dan. I'll use the Kerdi seals. We do have a handheld wand in this setup, plus the standard shower head (rainshower) and there is a diverter that allows them to work independently or together. It's a Chinese contraption in antique brass which is THE most important thing you know, but it does seem well made. My neighbor plumber looked at it and was impressed as well. I bought a second one for parts, just in case.

I am trying to decide how to temp compensate this. I will have access adjacent to the rough plumbing via an in-wall cabinet I've built with access from the back side of the shower.
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Unread 04-03-2020, 11:14 AM   #42
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So, I get to install a better shower system after much discussion. Bought a Moentrol with diverter setup and now I have to figure out how to waterproof the triangle shaped hole for that. I found some threads though and I think I'm good. Just happy to not have that piece of junk invading all my hard work.....LOL.
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Unread 04-09-2020, 03:44 PM   #43
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Back with another quick question. To repair the ceiling after moving a light and vent, I've gone with a beadboard ceiling and a simple 1x4 crown moulding. I'll be tiling up to the trim in the shower. Can I just grout right to the trim or do I need to allow for caulk there? This is nearly 8ft high so not a "wet" area.

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Unread 04-09-2020, 06:42 PM   #44
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I assume you're calling the crown moulding "trim". If you're tiling the walls up to the crown then you're better off using caulk there. Still, over time the wood might shrink enough to crack the caulk but it wouldn't be too hard to replace.
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Unread 04-10-2020, 07:08 AM   #45
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If you're using real wood bead board be sure you don't butt the perimeter edges hard against anything, Steve, that stuff is going to expand/contract like crazy in that environment.

I have bead board on the walls in a powder room and gaps between the boards open and close with the change of seasons here. Right now many are still open.

The crown; is it truly just flat 1X4 stock?
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