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Unread 03-18-2020, 06:33 AM   #16
ss3964spd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
I had planned to rip 0.25" from each new sister joist.
A good idea, that. Consider ripping them down to a hair less than the existing joists.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 09:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC
Re the Great Stuff adhesive, it does expand but not to the same extent as the stuff for cracks and gaps. Sticks well to surface, wet, dry or dusty. The PL tends to drip down and is hard to compress; this stuff squeezes out easily under compress.
I will be sistering the joists after I remove all of the subfloor. Since the Great Stuff adhesive does expand some and also squeezes out easily under compress, do I need to be concerned about it squeezing out at the top onto the top of the joists and then hardening to create glue residue bumps on the top of the joists affecting the ability to create a flat subfloor when I come back to screw and glue the subfloor to the joists?
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Unread 03-25-2020, 09:55 AM   #18
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"Concerned" isn't what I'd be at all, Jim, as any squeeze out should be easily removed an hour or so after it's finished squeezing. A putty knife or similar should do the trick. Anything left will succumb to a razor blade knife.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 01:26 PM   #19
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Thanks. Assuming I apply the Great Stuff in a continuous line of forward and reverse sideways S pattern...how close to the top and bottom edges of the joist should I apply the Great Stuff and how many inches apart should the vertical portions of the S be in the field of the joist?
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Unread 03-25-2020, 05:52 PM   #20
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The serpentine pattern you describe is fine; don’t worry about getting close to edges. Lay a 1/2 bead about 12-18” peak to peak.
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Unread 03-25-2020, 06:45 PM   #21
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You still planning on ripping down joists? You should give use of 2x8 another look. Much simpler than cutting down 2x10 and then dealing with the inevitable bowing with not wiggle room.
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Unread 03-26-2020, 06:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC
You should give use of 2x8 another look.
If using 2X8's gets you well past where you need to be deflection wise 2X8's would make your life much, much easier, Jim.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 04:41 AM   #23
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I already have the 2x10s. Plan is to shave them down 0.25" or slightly more.

The subfloor will be removed as is the ceiling below and I am not going to the wall plates...so I won't have obstacles in place when positioning except at the closet wall and the partition between the toilet and vanity.

Use 3" decking screws, not 2.5"?

Fender washers or flat washers?

I used star flat head deck screws over phillips head when I built my deck which successfully eliminated stripping that I was experiencing with flat head screws...but those have flutes near the head to aid in biting into the wood. Not sure how those will work with a washer as it prevents the washer from coming flat to the head of the screw.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 08:11 AM   #24
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Quote:
Use 3" decking screws, not 2.5"?
3"

Quote:
Fender washers or flat washers?
Flat, small 5/16" is what I used but maybe 1/4" just make sure the screw head wont pull through.
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Unread 03-27-2020, 08:34 AM   #25
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I would use the 3" only if they're of thicker gauge than the 2 1/2", which is sometimes the case. Doesn't hurt to use the 3" in any case, though, so long as you don't run your hand over the opposite side of the joists.

I have never used washers under the heads of decking screws in that application and I've done that application many times. I do prefer to clamp the joists together after applying adhesive and before installing the screws.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-31-2020, 01:28 PM   #26
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The partition for the toilet and closet walls will make installing tongue & groove subfloor difficult...so I was planning to use 3/4" plywood that is not tongue and groove and gap 1/8" all around, screwed and glued to the joists. Then a 1/2" layer of plywood screwed into the subfloor (but not the joists) also gapped 1/8" all around.

Sound correct?

Should both layers of plywood be Exterior grade (Exposure 1) BC sanded pine?
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Unread 03-31-2020, 04:06 PM   #27
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No.

If you can't use center-matched panels because of the confined space, you'll need to add blocking for those joints as you install your square-edged panels. I generally use 5 or 6-inch rips of 3/4" plywood for that, cut just a bit shorter than the space between joists so the piece cannot touch either joists. Glue and screw it to the first installed panel with the subfloor edge in the center of the block, then glue and screw the next section to the block when you install it.

The second layer of plywood subflooring is always a good idea for any tile installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-01-2020, 05:42 AM   #28
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You can also add 2X blocking directly attached to the joists, with the centerline of the blocking lined up with the plywood seams.

Yes, the BC Exposure 1 plywood is what you want, as is how you intend to fasten the 2nd layer.
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Unread 04-06-2020, 02:01 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
I generally use 5 or 6-inch rips of 3/4" plywood for that, cut just a bit shorter than the space between joists so the piece cannot touch either joists. Glue and screw it to the first installed panel with the subfloor edge in the center of the block, then glue and screw the next section to the block when you install it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
You can also add 2X blocking directly attached to the joists, with the centerline of the blocking lined up with the plywood seams.
Between these two methods, the blocking would seem to provide better support. Is that an accurate assumption?

If I go with the blocking method, any problems with using 2x4 instead of the full 2x10 depth of the joist? Should I also glue and screw into the blocking?
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Unread 04-06-2020, 07:45 PM   #30
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Jim - While the blocking is certainly a strong connection, it’s really over kill for the application. Also, the blocking is tricky to install right and can cause squeaky floors due to joist movement against the blocks.

I recommend either 2x4 laid flat to bridge the gap or the plywood as CX described. Both are simple, effective and fast.
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