Windows???

[wrf]

As in how do I tile around a window? Didnt see much about this in the book, which just came today so havent read it all yet obviously. Is there an online tutorial re same? Other suggestions?
Randy

[COBALT]

I found this a good opportunity to incorporate some bullnose. Of course this totally depends on how high you're carrying your tile, what kind of tile it is, how thick your exterior wall is (not everyone has a modern home with 2 x 6 walls), what shape your windows and casement is in, etc.

I reframed the entire exterior wall of my bathroom, and replaced the window with a Milgard Ultra fiberglass window that looks super cool, so I just laid 1/4" wonderboard strips on the inside of the casement, used some versabond and some fiber tape to mesh out the seam between the green board higher up on the wall and the wonderboard in the casement, and then rubbed it down with a rubbing stone once it had set up.

After a little bit of refinement it was ready to tile on, so I cut all of my pieces in advance using a wet saw and about 40 pieces of bullnose that matched my tile + a couple of double-bullnose pieces for the corners, and used a notched margin trowel to comb out some thinset in the sill and out around the window, and set my tile.

[John Bridge]

Hi Randy,

Couldn't fit everything in the book.

If you put up a pic of your situation and describe it a little, you'll get plenty of help.

[wrf]

Oh sure! Post a picture! Man Im just thinking and looking and standing around (liked that part of the book) and doing a little at a time prep work, learning what redgard is and where to find it, learning after the fact that there are 2 types of fibreglass board tape and wondering whether I lucked out and used the right stuff and trying to figure out how to transition from my nice, firm and plumb cbu to that crappy fallaway drywall that they attached to the corners with CLIPS for gawd sake and now you want I should shift gears, get all digital/technical and figure out how to post pictures to the web? Jeez Louise by the time I get that figured out I will have forgotten that I need a second coat of redguard, the whole thing will leak all over the computer in the room below the bathroom, the dog will bite the mailman, animal control will realize I still dont have a license....well you get the idea.
Hmmn. Lemme ponder this a bit. Need to read your sections on layout so I can pose at least semi-intelligent questions, not to mention check out the software on the camera Meanwhile I need to find some metal lath for the curb: that part I have figured out. (I think).
Randy

[John Bridge]

Uh Randy, I think you need more than a book. Maybe a box of fine wine.

[wrf]

Who am I to argue?? Sounds good. Seriously, I will get around to locating the dig camera, the software, the firewire connection etc. Designer came by with colours, tiles etc toaday and wife happy with plan and materials. They have picked out a porcelin 13x13 with contrasting color dots, on 45 pattern and no that tile doesnt come clipped Why make the first project simple?? Like I said I need to read the layout section carefully. Least I am making the vanity myself...first decision: its gonna be floating man.
How hard is it to lay out a 45 pattern in an area about 12 by 6 with tiles that size?
Also, field tile comes in a 8x8. Which size is better for use on shower wall and tub surround? Does it matter?
Randy

[Mike2]

Hi Randy.

I know from your first post/Tread that this project is your first tile installation. I want to encourage you to continue on, I really do, but laying 12" tile diagonally on a vertical surface is not what I'd recommend you "cut-your-teeth" on. I think you would find 8" tiles easier to work with, but even at that, hummm.....is there something else in the bathroom you could tile first just to build up some experience level? Maybe the main floor, a vanity top, or even a horizontal surface of a tub-deck?

[Davestone]

I would measure my back wall and make a layout on floor with spacers in and prefit and cut the whole wall on the floor and then move one by one to the wall and thinset them on using shims for the first row above tub,or a supported straightedge in a shower. Keep in mind you'll need to shim the side cuts against the walls in order to secure them. These diagonals on walls is the hardest thing to do,so take your time and butter each tile,don't spread the wall out, as it will dry too fast and the tile won't stick. It would probably help to get a center plumb line down the wall

[wrf]

Dont even talk about wall tiles at 45 degrees! My wife might read the thread and like the idea. No the 45 layout is on the floor, the wall thank god are horizontal.
Randy

[wrf]

Well, after some delay ( again had to drive to next town to get stuff...expanded metal lath in this case) the curb is in. One slight slurb at one end.. was down in woodwork shop helping second son with school project instead of doing that one last check but overall I think its servicable. Looked easier on the web site I must say
Randy

[Steven Hauser]

what does slurb mean?

[cx]

Don't make a new thread for every step of the project, Randy, or we'll never be able to keep up with what you're doing. 'Specially some of the older members.

We can change the name of this thread if you like, but just keep all your posts here until the project is completed.

[quantum]

Originally Posted by John Bridge

Uh Randy, I think you need more than a book. Maybe a box of fine wine.

I was going to suggest decaf.


I noticed the frosted window in the shower. Any way to get that without replacing the entire unit or using that dopey contact stuff?

[wrf]

Qauntum u can get a glass shop to change your window glass to "privacy glass" which can be opaque, frosted, pebbled, etched etc.
Steve a slurb is a not straight spot, a slump and a curve so to speak. Actually cold light of day shows several more than one. Oh well.
Randy

[wrf]

OK so Tile is ordered. On hold for 2 weeks apparently. Question is that designer has called for a "cove" tile at junction shower walls and shower floor ie inside bottom edges of dhower itself. This seems in conflict with need /advice to leave the 2 surfaces un connected in terms of caulk versus grout etc. Also seems to me it will be a bit difficult to float the floor tiles accurately enough to hit the cove tile at just the right point. Opinions/advice on this??
Thanks, Randy