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Old 11-12-2018, 09:40 AM   #16
Davy
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On the left outside wall where your broom is, I would go ahead and sheetrock that wall. Same on the right side if it matches the left. When you mud the face of the curb, the mud should be flush with the sheetrock walls on each side. I would wrap that corner with tile. Like my pic below shows.
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Old 11-12-2018, 12:47 PM   #17
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Thanks again CX. You are an incredible help to me!

I don't mean to push my luck, but I trust the resources of this forum more than the tile store salespeople.

I have confirmed the sealing of the cement board but cannot find anything regarding the bottom corners where it meets the top mud pan. I have searched on this forum and elsewhere and cannot find the information. I assume it would be the same as a corner of two cement boards but you know what they say about assuming.

One other question (for now). I have a Delta R11000 diverter valve for a hand shower installed per the manufacturers instructions. However, now the bonnet is directly in lined up with the cement board (see pic). How do I waterproof this area? The manufacturers instructions do not address this. It doesn't seem to be a good idea to rely on the trim ring for sealing.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin
I have confirmed the sealing of the cement board but cannot find anything regarding the bottom corners where it meets the top mud pan.
Not sure what you mean by "sealing" your CBU, Kevin, but you do nothing at all at the joint between your wallboards and your final mud bed.

If you are using a direct bonded waterproofing membrane to waterproof your walls, I'd just use it around your mixing valve the same as the rest of your walls. The mixing valve should have an escutcheon plate that seals against the tile surface and I like to add a bead of silicone sealant around the top 3/4s of that trim piece after the shower has been tested.

I'm not familiar with that particular valve, but are you sure you'll even be able to install the escutcheon with the hole cut that tight?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:58 PM   #19
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What Cx said. There's usually two holes in the escutcheon plate for screws. You will need to cut the CBU enough to allow those two screws to screw into the valve. Cut the circle a little bigger and you'll see the two ears that will have threaded holes for the two screws.
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Old 11-12-2018, 03:57 PM   #20
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Thanks CX. You clarified NO sealing at the cement board/mud pan transition. Makes sense as it is inside and below the liner.

And thanks Davy for your suggestion to wrap around the corner. The other wall is flat so I only have on one side. I lack a bit of confidence to make the cuts on the tile look good, both on the outside corner and on the finished edge, which is why I am consider the Schluter profiles.

And thanks to both of you for your comments on the valve. The escutcheon plate is relatively small and attaches to the spool once that is installed (that is a temporary test piece installed now during construction). CX, your tip of silicone sealant is what I was missing. It seemed odd to go through all these pains of waterproofing when there are all these paths behind the escutcheon plates relying on a cheap foam gasket, so that cleared it up. But a dumb question from me now that I think about it. Seems like a good idea to do that on all the escutcheon plates on any valve/wall penetration.
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Old 11-12-2018, 06:27 PM   #21
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Not a dumb question at all, Kevin. It's certainly not intuitive to go to great lengths to waterproof a shower and then leave a big ol' hole where the control valve is located. But those escutcheons with the foam gaskets have been used in that application (without the caulking) for many years and actually do a pretty good job most of the time in my experience. I've torn out a good number of old showers and never found that to be a problematic area. Again, counter intuitive maybe, but it usually works.

I started adding the bead of caulk just because it made me feel better, 'specially when I started doing Kerdi showers over drywall long before Schluter came out with their little Kerdi gasket thingees.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:53 PM   #22
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While there may be a sleeve that fits over the cartridge, most all of the Delta trim pieces screw into the holes in the rough-in body at the 2 and 7 o'clock positions.
https://media.deltafaucet.com/SpecSh...b-r10000_J.pdf

What trim do you have?

If you're using a surface waterproofing, unless it's a sheet, you need to tape the seams before you can waterproof. If there's a moisture barrier behind and you're not, you can tape the seams as you tile. That can help prevent speed bumps.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:14 AM   #23
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that valve looks installed wrong. I think it is too deep in the wall.

Per the instruction sheet "the wall should always be flush with the front of the plasterguard"

See page 2, part B.

https://s2.img-b.com/faucet.com/medi...all_051710.pdf

Also, the hole is too small for the trim, like someone else said. The wall board cutout should fit snugly around the plaster guard.

See below. The entire silver ring, and then some, should be exposed. there is no way you will get the trim on once the tile is set. Plus the valve is not long enough for the trim handle to connect to it. Re-do this part asap.



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Old 11-13-2018, 01:12 PM   #24
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Mike, it's a diverter valve, not shower valve. That's the installed height.

Getting that ring off after tile can be a PITA. All the ones I've installed had a hex cut on the cap and I've been able to grab with slip joint pliers. Just recently got a socket to fit. The escutcheon is much smaller than shower valve.

Outside of that, I like the valve. Very easy to switch. And FWIW, I never leave mud ring on.

This doesn't show installed height well, but when the valve and diverter are installed in the same plane, this is what results
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Old 11-13-2018, 02:22 PM   #25
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Peter, apologies.

If that is a diverter, there are different instructions as there is no square plaster gaurd. It is round like in your pics.

https://media.deltafaucet.com/MandI/70551%20Rev%20F.pdf

see page three here. Note the FINISHED wall should be about even with the front of the valve. Quote from instructions:
"When finished, the front of the bonnet nut (1) should be sub flush to
the finished wall."

In the OP's pics, it is about even with the wallboard. I still think it is too deep in the wall. The instructions only give 1/8in of leeway....
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Old 11-13-2018, 05:05 PM   #26
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Delta did something really smart with their newest valves and diverters.

In a 2x4 wall if you install a flat 2x against the opposite side wall covering, valve will be where you want it when done. This assumes 1/2 inch of wall covering and perhaps up to 1/2" or a little more of tile thickness.

Maybe you can see what I mean in photo, although that's not a beautiful example. Wall was a mess from an opposite side valve replacement done by some butcher prior to my remodel on the bathroom. Client didn't want to get into drywall repairs in bedroom so I worked around it. All manner of strange things used as cleats, one appeared to be table leg. It's why I prefer to do my own plumbing!


I always shoot for the deepest I can set valve and still attach trim so there's not a lot of the "shaft" showing, but I'm kinda OCD about stuff like that.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:07 PM   #27
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Thanks to all who posted. It is the diverter valve, just like shown in the latest reply. That is almost exactly what my finished installation will look like (I hope it will look that good!)

The escutcheon plate is definitely much smaller than on the mixer valves which is why I cut the cement board relatively close while realizing I still have to turn the bonnet nut. And I noticed I actually swapped the bonnet nut with one of the mixer valves, I will fix that so I have the hex flats to work with. The trim components all attach to the valve spool, nothing to the outside of the bonnet nut like the mixer valves.

The photo might be a bit misleading due to angle, I had the valve installed to the correct dimension to the studs. I will need to check to make sure the cement board is tight to the studs.
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