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Unread 07-28-2004, 05:18 AM   #1
The Smiths
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Green marble tile on fireplace surround

Hello Experts!

We bought some lovely green marble tile to cover an outdated brick fireplace. I have a couple of questions though...

1. We're getting mixed messages about what to use for laying the tile. Can we use Thin-Set for this job? Or do we need to use an epoxy. (What's the issue here?)

2. We've put mortar down on the floor, but the fireplace walls are still brick. Is it okay to go right over the brick? Or should we prep that somehow?

Thanks for any help you can provide!
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Unread 07-28-2004, 05:46 AM   #2
bbcamp
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Welcome, Smiths!

Do a site search on green marble, I think we've recommended epoxy because of warping issues.

It's OK to go over brick that isn't painted, crumbly, or heavily dirty with soot and the dust of ages. A good soap and water cleaning with a wire brush will be a good start. Skim coat the brick with modified thinset to make a flat setting surface.

Bob
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Unread 07-28-2004, 01:38 PM   #3
Rock polisher
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yep, Im with Bob, use an epoxy.
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Unread 07-28-2004, 02:18 PM   #4
KChurch1
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We've seen a lot of efflorescence problems with green marbles even when epoxy is used for setting. I'm not an installer, but wouldn't a moisture vapor barrier be recommended just to be on the safe side? If so, which one is best for this application?
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Unread 07-28-2004, 02:41 PM   #5
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From my experience with Verdi Green marble you have to use white full flex thinset. And have to back butter or skim each piece before adhering it to the surface wall or floor which ever you are doing. What kind of stuff is on the fireplace now??? What about the harth????But Im sure some of the tile tossin gorus will be along to suggest what is best just my few cents worth dont know if Im rite or wrong we will see
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Unread 07-28-2004, 03:37 PM   #6
Rock polisher
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Being that its a fireplace i dont see moisture as an issue. the epoxy skimmed on the back would solve that issue as it is. Never see a problem arise in that situation except from heat or a leaking chimney. the latter can definitely present problems. Full coverage is needed or close to to help allleviate any problems with efflorescence in a wet area. We charge another $6-$10 a sq ft more for green marble installations because of the precarious nature of it and the problems tha rear up form time to time,.
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Unread 07-28-2004, 04:17 PM   #7
The Smiths
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Ahhh, I am definitely in the right place. You folks are awesome!

Can I *really* show my ignorance now and ask: What is it that happens with green marble tile if epoxy isn't used?

Many, many thanks for all the input. (Glad to hear more also!)
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Unread 07-28-2004, 07:03 PM   #8
KChurch1
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We tried to restore a green marble fireplace several months ago with an efflorescence problem (white mineral deposits and the start of spalling/blistering of the stone caused by moisture) that was installed in a home near the beach, on grade slab. It was sculpted solid slabs... sad to see the problem... wasn't much we could do. We tried many remedies and it did improve the problem slightly, but it's going to reappear... This is just a typical green marble problem we see here in So. Cal.
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Unread 07-28-2004, 07:03 PM   #9
Davy
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Sometimes the marble will warp. Years ago when Hulien Green was getting popular we used it on alot of fireplaces. The builder I worked for never wanted to pay for the epoxy, so I used thinset. I would ask him each time before installing it so I wouldn't be blamed in case of problems, he would say thinset, "haven't had any problems yet have we"? On the forth fireplace we had problems, the 12x12 curled about 1/8 inch, breaking bond. Funny thing is this happened in his own personal house.

These days I wouldn't even ask, if it's green marble it will be stuck with epoxy.
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Unread 07-30-2004, 11:31 AM   #10
sweetczz
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Hardibacker

What's wrong with using hardibacker on the brick fireplace before setting the marble? I'm asking because this is what I plan to do.
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Unread 07-30-2004, 12:48 PM   #11
Mike2
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Good morning Smith.

So how you plan to attach the Hardiboard to the old brick?
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Unread 07-30-2004, 02:08 PM   #12
sweetczz
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hardibacker on brick

by using hardibacker screws, and a dewalt screwdriver
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Unread 07-30-2004, 03:14 PM   #13
Mike2
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Excuse me Smith. I now see we have two threads going on here. Actually just one thread with multiple personalities.

Now back to you czz, welcome to the forum by the way.

Humm, just pewt a regular 'ol Hardibacker screw right into that hard brick eh? I must be missing sumthing which is most likely the case but I just don't see how you gonna do that. Nope, I really don't. Maybe CX will come back after finishing his taxes and help me out here.
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Unread 07-30-2004, 09:23 PM   #14
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HD has some blue screws called Tap-cons, they come in different sizes. You will need to drill a hole for each screw but they do hold good. I just don't know how they will sink into the CBU.
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Unread 07-30-2004, 09:44 PM   #15
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Be possible with the tapcons, I suppose. Big PITA, but possible. And getting the sheets flat and aligned is gonna be an even bigger PITA.

If your brick face isn't flat and smooth enough for your tile, I'd suggest you apply some mortar. Is this brick face pretty clean? No paint or any such?
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