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Old 01-11-2006, 01:39 PM   #1
dpiscotty
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sanity check

Hey Guys, give me a sanity check here. About to start my custom shower with tiles on the walls and floors with one glass block wall.

I have 2x6's nailed along the bottom perimeter for fastening the pan liner and a few spanning the width of the shower for a seat. I might even go with some 2x8's to minimize any deflection.

I will pvc cement the drain and it will rest on the plywood floor. it sits up about 3/4" inch for the mud. I have the correct drain assembly.
put down tar paper
put down mesh
nail 3/4" to 1" strips around perimeter to achieve proper slope
mud, mud, screed, mud.
next day:
set liner, fold, glue and staple flaps in corners about 6" up from floor
trim holes from drain in liner, caulk around holes, bolt down other half of drain.
Also, set liner on top of the seat and do the corners flaps as well.
hang cement board onto wall with plastic behind (maybe if I feel the need) to 1/2" above pan near floor and seat.
tile walls
tile floor
grout entire shower

Please fill in the blanks.

now, do I need to notch the bottom of the studs to accomodate the flaps in the corners? Or do I just transition it with some pieces of shingles or shims?

I will also be having some niches. John suggests panning those as well. Yay? Nay? It's a 2x4 wall so am I just tiling the back of the drywall from the other room?

I bought john's book and I like it a lot. I just need some checks on the gotchas. Thanks!!!!

Dan
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:57 PM   #2
bbcamp
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Dan, some comments:

1) Feel the need for plastic sheeting behind the backerboard. Please.

2) Skip the pan material on the seat. Frame the seat super stiff, and use plywood for the seating surface. Cover with backerboard. Tape and mud the joints, then pain the seat area, the front down to the pan, and the walls up at least 6 inches with Redgard, a surface waterproofer. Your plan would have caused you to pierce the liner with screws, and that's bad.

3) if youi've already set the blocking for the liner flush with the studs, then it's probably too late to notch the studs. Use some wood lath to shim the studs out about 1/4".

4) Don't forget the curb. The liner folds over the curb and is held with metal lathe that is bent in a U shape. Also, at the corners of the curb, the liner will need to be cut. Repair this with "dam corners". This is very important, as lots of showers fail at this point.

5) Cut the moisture barrier at the niche, fold the the flaps in and staple. Install your backerboard, including a big piece for the back. Tape, mud and Redgard just like the bench.
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Old 01-11-2006, 02:07 PM   #3
muskymike
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Sanity check. What Bob said.
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Old 01-11-2006, 02:07 PM   #4
bbcamp
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'Zat mean I'm sane?
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Old 01-11-2006, 02:12 PM   #5
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:05 AM   #6
dpiscotty
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nah, you're still not sane...yet.

okay. I'll plastic the walls. no biggie.
After I frame the seat, I'll wrap it in plastic and durarock all around it up to the ceiling.
Then I'll redguard it. What is this, a paint?
Then I'll pan it.
I gather this gets a little tricky with all the corners and having to notch them and/or shim out the walls a 1/4". I'm gathering the 1/4" is for the flaps of the pan liner/membrane and the corners.

Well then riddle me this batman, let's say I notch out the blocking or shim up the studs, then I lay down the liner and glue all the happy little corners...
When I mount the durarock, I'm assuming I don't nail the lower 6" of the durarock as that would put holes into the liner.

yay, nay?

Thanks
D
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Old 01-16-2006, 06:26 PM   #7
jadnashua
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Yep, don't nail through your liner when putting up the cbu. You can smush some thinset behind parts (if I remember right!), and the deckmud will lock it in place when you get that in. My unprofessional opinion....all of this is in the liberry.
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