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Unread 08-18-2019, 07:12 PM   #61
Davy
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Okay, try patching it, hopefully it works. Any loose stuff needs to be picked up before patching it.
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Unread 08-18-2019, 10:09 PM   #62
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Dave / CX, lets say yoiu were in my situation, and was going to try and salvage it. What woudl you do? I plan to get a dish scrubbing brush and remove all aggrigate that is loose. Then sweep it up, Throw it away. I am gong to have a few holes to patch, what woudl you use to patch? Im thinking either thinset, non mondified, or sandmix, and double the portland. That made a damn good slurry that I think would bond and hold.

Any trade secret you want to share Thanks!
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Unread 08-18-2019, 11:41 PM   #63
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Don't use a scrub brush. With moderate force you'd be able to wear away at even well-placed and well-packed deck mud.

Use a shop vac to get anything that's loose, whatever stays down is placed well enough. Then you can probably get away with using a modified thinset if it's just a few small areas 3/8" deep. Anything larger or deeper and I'd use a cement-based patching compound. Don't use sandmix for shallow areas, it won't hold long-term.
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Unread 08-19-2019, 05:33 AM   #64
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What Lou said. I would do the vac test. Usually if it holds up to the vac then it's strong enough to stay down. If the vac continues to pull it up, replace the mud.
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Unread 08-22-2019, 01:28 PM   #65
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So I did the vac test, and it vac a little bit up, then got hard. I did have some gaps or holes in pan though, not all the way to liner, but some maybe 1/2 deep. I mixed up some thinset, and filled the gaps. Then sanded smooth and sloped. I put some water to it, and it drained well,. I clogged the top hole, and flooded, and it seemed to soak it through the thinset, hit the sand mix below and drain out weep holes. Probably took a little longer than expected because it didn't penetrate the thinset near as fast as the sand mix (almost instantly). Pan is sloped and solid now. Question is, I still have to thinset the pan, to stick river stones. Is there a point where there is just to thick of thinset to make it function correctly? As some spots will have over 1/2" thick thinset. Other spots will just be a slim coat.

I think what caused my problem is I packed and leveled the edge all the way around, and by the time I got to filling it, some of the edge was to dry to stick to? It appears everywhere some of the sand mix broke apart is where the pan filler meet the original pan packing edge. Since I am sloped and solid, can I stick rock floor to it? Is there a time window, where I can stick thinset to thinset? Is there a Max thickness I can have on thinset?
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Unread 08-22-2019, 05:20 PM   #66
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We try to avoid deep holes and thinset over 1/4 inch but there are no rules. I don't think the few deep holes filled with thinset will hurt anything. I assume you're still using the same stones you show in post 58. I would spread a little thinset with the proper notched trowel and stick the stones down. Thinset will stick to thinset, just spread and set a small area at a time.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 05:42 PM   #67
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Help before it dries !!!

I just grouted a river rock shower floor using Prism oyster grey grout. It looked good, then about 20 mins after sponging, everything is turning a really like, white color. If I sponge with damp, it looks good until dry, the. Back to the blurry white look. What do I do? It's been about an hour.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 05:47 PM   #68
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Working on picture.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 06:37 PM   #69
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Scratch the surface when it's dry and see if the proper color is beneath the white.
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Unread 09-29-2019, 07:06 PM   #70
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How would I scratch it?
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Unread 09-29-2019, 07:11 PM   #71
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With a hard, semi-sharp tool, Paul. Screwdriver or similar.
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Unread 09-30-2019, 10:00 PM   #72
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I guess it was just some grout haze. I wiped it down good with wet sponge, adn then buffed with microfiber, adn it looks fine. However, I have another issue, the river rocks come with some black plastic mesh that is glued to bottom of rocks. I really thought I trimmed that mesh back good, but I guess I didnt. So in 4 stops, I have a 1/8" peice of that black mesh plastic sticking out, just looks liek a single bristle. So can I chip out grout there, cut them off, tehn when I grout walls, just add a little grout to those area? Basically, will a newly mixed batch of grout stick to the old grout? If so, how deep should I chip it out, just enough to cover, or should I go deeper so I have more surface area to stick new grout to?
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Unread 10-01-2019, 07:29 PM   #73
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How is the best way to make edges on the outer wall edges? In the pictures you will see where I have 2x Half walls, with a entrance in the middle. I plan to tile up the half walls and maybe 3" out on the outside of walls (not shower side). So when going up those walls, which is 4.5" wide, how to I form edges? Do I have to line the outer edges with bullnose, and cut them evenly down middle to make for this 4.5" wide area, and butt them together, because I never seen 4.5" wide tiles that are bullnosed on two sides? Should I line it all with Rondec? Any other suggestions?
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Unread 10-01-2019, 08:01 PM   #74
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One way is to back-bevel or back/miter the edges to wrap around those corners, Paul. Like this:

Name:  back mitering tile.jpg
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Get a look like this (sorry, best photo I've got):

Name:  Mitered Corner.jpg
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Size:  43.4 KB
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Unread 10-01-2019, 08:19 PM   #75
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I like the Rondec.

It’s not inexpensive by any means, but, for me I figured I’m in it this far; what’s a bit more. Comes in different colors and finishes. It’s taken a few good hits with stuff and is holding up very well.
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