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Old 04-19-2019, 10:38 AM   #106
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You can cut the Ditra with a utility knife to the subfloor, no problem. The issue at hand is how to get the tile/Ditra assembly up without damaging the surrounding tiles. You basically have to pry against something adjacent to the tile, or smash the tile and take it out in pieces. Prying against adjacent tiles is likely to damage the edge of another tile.

Your choice.

If you put mortar on the back of the tile, it's very likely that the tile will come up with a bunch of little mortar nubs on the back of it where they pulled out of the Ditra cavities. So unless you wanted to do a bunch of grinding on the back of the tile, it's probably not reusable.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:32 PM   #107
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Get the hooked end of a small prybar behind and under the tile on the wall side and pull? Should I worry about damaging the ditra or pulling it off the leveling patch underneath?
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:04 PM   #108
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Yes, it's a possibility. Did you cut it through the grout joints to the subfloor?
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:30 PM   #109
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No, I didn't cut through the ditra. I set the tile 2 days ago and scraped out the mortar from the grout joints yesterday. Why do I want to cut through the Ditra? So it doesn't pull up with the tile I want to remove then take the surrounding tiles with it?

Edit: ok, I did a bit more searching on the forum and see the recommended method is to remove both the tile and the patch of ditra under it. I thought because the mortar is not even 3 days old, I could pull it up. Went out, got a small pry bar, gave the tile a few experimental tugs, but I'm scared I'll pull the Ditra off the floor. The edge of it is in the same spot, I don't even know that the pry bar's not under it. I don't want to remove the ditra: it's a complicated shape and there's a banded seam under the tile. I'll just cut the tile into pieces with a dremel or something, chisel it out in bits then cut a new one to the right shape.

Thanks for the tips.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:29 PM   #110
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Yes, definitely cut and remove the Ditra as well. If you don't, you'll pry up the surrounding Ditra and cause yourself more problems.
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Old 05-14-2019, 05:48 PM   #111
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Couldn't find any old posts about this problem:

I'm setting 12x12 porcelain wall tile on aquaDefense-covered cement board using CBP ProLite with a 1/4x1/2x1/4 u-notch trowel. The problem is the combed mortar ridges are too skinny. They're about as high as they should be but there looks to be too much space between them and they're tapered, not rounded like the trowel notches. Plenty of mortar on the wall before I run the trowel over it. This doesn't seem to happen if the trowel is fresh or if I sponge it off. Does this mean I mixed the proLite too thick and it's sticking to the trowel? It was mixed so that if I picked up some mortar with the margin trowel, hold it upside-down, and shake a bit, it pretty much doesn't slump or jiggle at all. Still feels light and fluffy because it's light-weight.

I started mixing mortar by adding powder to water until the consistency seems good. Gave up on weighing out the mortar after my Ditra-Set came out way too dry when mixed according to directions.

Any tips?
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:54 PM   #112
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Hard to say exactly without being there. Are you following mixing time and letting it slake? Is there a suggested mixing speed? I've only used prolite once so I can't remember. I use that trowel quite a bit though and cant say I've had your issue. There's a reason manufacturers want you to mix a whole bag, but in reality it isn't feasible to do it on every job. I would go a little looser on your next batch and see.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:56 AM   #113
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I mix by hand with a margin trowel. Start with 1-2 qt of water, gradually add the powder until it seems right. Shoot for no more than 5 min on mixing like instructions say, let sit for another 7 min (instructions say 5-10 min), mix a bit more but add nothing else. Comes out really smooth but it's hard to judge because it's so light (and because I don't actually know what I'm doing).

I'll weigh it out next time and see where that gets me. Sounds like the obvious thing to do but I had a pretty bad experience last time I did that. Involved a burned out drill.
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Old 05-16-2019, 06:27 AM   #114
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I've used quite a bit of Versabond in my bathroom so far, Paul, and a bag of ProLite also, and haven't measured any of it. I mix up fairly small batches in what might be a 2 gallon bucket. Add water, add mortar, and mix it with a paddle and 18v drill. I've gotten to the point where I can tell when it's close, and add mortar as needed, by lifting the paddle out of the bucket several times while mixing. When you lift that paddle out it tends to leave 4 "peaks". If they collapse completely the mix is too thin, If they half way collapse it's probably good for sheet membrane, if they stay mostly upright with just the tips falling over it seems to work for tile. I mix for about 5 minutes, let it slake for 10, and mix it again for 5. Ya definitely get a feel for it.

I've been setting my 12X24 ish wall tile lately, using my 3/8" slant notch. Sponge off the back of the tile, burn in a coat of mortar, then trowel on the rest. Coverage is good and once I press them onto the wall it's a fight to pull them off.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:01 AM   #115
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Thanks.

Question about bullnose running across inside corners: I have a tiled wainscot half way up the wall that runs across 2 walls joined by an inside corner. Bullnose will go at the top of the wainscot. I plan to do a bevelled joint on the bullnose pieces because I can clearly see them from the top, it's right behind the sink. Is it a good idea to do a bevelled inside corner joint on the tiles below the bullnose joint as well so the corner looks consistent or can you not really tell? I'll use sanded caulk in that corner.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:10 AM   #116
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Certainly wouldn't hurt, Paul, but you may be the only one who notices.
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:29 PM   #117
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Mixed up some proLite in the 6 qt to 30 lbs ratio that's the most water recommended by CBP. Might spread a bit better but still kind of thick. Actually seems heavier and really sticky. I think with too much powder, it actually gets fluffier.

With the proper mix, it takes a lot of pressure and sliding the tile back and forth across the combed thinset to get it even with other tiles. Is it a bad idea to thin it out a bit beyond manufacturer spec to make adjusting wall tiles easier? Seems like it takes me 10 minutes to set each one.
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:59 AM   #118
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Tiling strategy questions:

1). Is it a bad idea to set the bottom row of a wall using a ledger board, remove the board within 24 hours to clean up the bottom of the row, then use that row to align and support the rows above? 12x12x3/8 porcelain tiles, prolite mixed a smidge thinner than 6 qt / 30 lbs.

2). How much empty (mortar-free) space should I aim to leave at the outside edge of bullnose tiles? Need a gap to anchor the grout at the edge, right?

Thank you.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:07 AM   #119
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You mean, set the ledger board, and use the bottom edge of it to set the very bottom row of tile, Paul? Can't see why that wouldn't work.

For the bullnose grout fill, I'd think 1/8" would be plenty.
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:51 AM   #120
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Sorry, no, I mean on top of the ledger board. My wording was unclear. Ledger board aside, the question is if it's a bad idea to rely on a row of tile that's been up less than 24 hours to support one or more new rows above it or would the mortar of that first row not be set up enough to take the stress?
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