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Old 08-19-2019, 04:59 PM   #166
gardner
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Faced with a similar situation, I cut a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit closely around the pipe and attached it with construction adhesive and a couple of flooring screws. Then I put extra long stainless screws down through the flange and into the new plywood blocking. Since you have access to the underside, I would say this is the way to go.
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:36 PM   #167
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Same one, cx. Thanks for the tips, everybody.

Where can I get a good quality cast iron closet flange for heavy duty drain pipe? The best I could find was the one from Ferguson but it's worse quality than the one I pulled off. The mounting bolt holes are a little closer in and countersunk too steeply. The old one is intact but too tall. Can I just trim it with an angle grinder?

Old one on the left, new one on the right.
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Old 08-22-2019, 05:14 PM   #168
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Back to the grout. I cut out a grout line where the fusion pro looks like it was under-filled and collapsed and re-stuffed it. Now I have a lighter streak toward the bottom of that portion of that grout line segment. Had a few other light spots where I cut out and replaced the grout but those rubbed out with a white vinyl scrubber for the most part. What did I do wrong here?
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Old 08-22-2019, 05:32 PM   #169
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I believe the Fusion will stick to itself but smooth the patched area with a sponge. Maybe you can post a pic of the streak you mentioned.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:26 PM   #170
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It's not that it looks lumpy. It's smooth, not sure if there's a different texture. Looks like the same color as the rest of the grout, just a brighter shade. The color doesn't look right in the photos. The grout is fawn so it's kind of a brown/tan color. The streak is more toward yellow.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:42 PM   #171
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Is there a way to smooth out silicone that's already set? I caulked the corners and most of it looks not horrible but I worked on too much at once and some of it started to set before I tooled it so it looks lumpy. Think it's sealed alright but doesn't look great. Is it possible to remove a section of silicone and tie the new stuff in or will the ends be a leak point?

Gun the caulk, spray with denatured alcohol, run color rite's bead tool over it. Started out running a rag over it at the end but that just made a mess of it. It might work if you tool with a finger (which I maybe should've done instead) but it just screws up the square tooled bead.

Using color rite's sanded silicone matched to CBP snow white and fawn fusion pro grout. The snow white looks just like oreo bits in vanilla ice cream and the fawn looks like caramel gelato. Making me hungry. I think I have a problem.
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:26 PM   #172
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The yellow section of Fusion can be cut out and replaced. I've never had to replace that type grout so I'm not sure the best tool to use. You might start with a utility knife but it might take a Dremmell type tool.

No way to smooth out silicone once it has set. You can cut it out with a utility knife and replace it.
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:12 PM   #173
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Thanks.

I ended up cutting out the bad silicone section. It was a few hours old so hopefully the new stuff will meld with the wet stuff in the back if not in the front.

Next step is to set the vanity. It's free standing and the floor isn't perfectly set so I expect it to need some leveling. I see people shimming under the legs or trimming them. Can I use furniture glides? The adjustable thread-in ones will stick out too much, any reason not to use the adhesive-on ones with the screw through the middle (like these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shepherd...9455/202531731) and shim between the slider and the vanity leg? Don't want them to compress and go out of level over time.
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:29 AM   #174
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Is this a vanity made to look like furniture? Photo or link I can be of more help. I wouldn't put a slider like that on unless I did it to all legs for uniformity.

The "freestanding" look vanities have thrown a wrench into the gears in a number of ways, but there's usually a solution that doesn't look like a hack.
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:47 AM   #175
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Mine is similar to this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-C...-F69/301753439

I was thinking put furniture glides on all the legs and shim between each glide and the leg as necessary. That way you can't see the shims, they won't come loose, and all the leg bottoms look about the same.
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:03 PM   #176
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What you describe may be best way. Will this truly be freestanding? The only thing securing cabinet it is the drain and supply lines? Just pushed up against wall?
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:28 PM   #177
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I plan to screw it to a wall through a spacer plank. There's already blocking inside the wall for that purpose. I might not know what "freestanding" actually means with vanities.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:09 PM   #178
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Why don't you cut/sand the legs so it is level on the floor? I thought you meant there were no legs and it was "floating" above the floor at first.
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Old 08-29-2019, 05:56 AM   #179
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I, too, would cut/sand the legs, Paul. Anything you put under the legs will be visible, and then anything else you put under the anythings you already put under the legs will be even more visible.

Although my floor is flat and level, evidently the free standing cabinets, or perhaps the feet themselves were not built to close tolerances - I had to sand the feet on the end of one cabinet to make it level.

The stone tops are heavy, are against the wall, and are caulked to the face frame and end panels of the cabinets below the overhang. They aren't going anywhere.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:19 AM   #180
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All good points. I took a look at the vanity and it actually already has glides of some sort on the bottom of the legs. It's in another room under a pile of construction materials and I'm just getting back to it now. I don't want to shorten the legs because it's fiddly and might ruin the finish on the wood where you can see it but I'll do it if I have to.
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