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Unread 05-20-2019, 07:50 AM   #1
Lou_MA
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Using Kerdi drain adapter - ?

Got called onto a project where the body of a 3-piece clamping drain has already been set into a 7” hole in the subfloor. The hole has beveled sides so the drain is mostly supported.

I was planning on using the Kerdi drain adapter kit, but wanted to ask if the size of the subfloor hole (or any other factors) would give people pause.

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Unread 05-20-2019, 08:15 AM   #2
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Dunno why people do that. Shouldn't matter much with a Kerdi adapter drain, which would give you plenty of room for an adequate mud bed.

Seems moving that drain to the center of the shower footprint would give the option to use a standard Kerdi drain while correcting the current problem.

What's the purpose of the extra thickness of KerdiBoard around the bottom of the walls, Lou?
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Unread 05-20-2019, 08:35 AM   #3
Lou_MA
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Thanks CX.

When you say
Quote:
...while correcting the current problem.
, are you referring to drain location? Or size of subfloor hole? The client is ok with the off-center drain, so if the hole doesn’t present a problem, I’d be ok with proceeding with adapter kit.

Extra thickness of k-board is just me using offcut rips from wall as a ledger board. Wall tile is pretty thirsty 3 x 12 ceramic. Broke my own rule about screwing board down low so I’ve got less than 2”’ but plan is to Kerdi Fix screw holes.
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Unread 05-20-2019, 08:42 AM   #4
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just another option.
http://noblecompany.com/products/nobleflex
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Unread 05-20-2019, 10:29 AM   #5
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I was referring to the subfloor hole, Lou.

Eric's Coolie Hat option would work there, too.
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Unread 05-22-2019, 07:39 PM   #6
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Think I made a mistake today, looking for advice.

I’m tiling a shower, and set the walls first based off a ledger board. I pulled the ledger and covered the screw holes with a smear of Kerdi-Fix that basically ended up right under the bottom row of tile.

Went to go pack the pan and realized that I should’ve started the ledger one row higher. The Kerdi Fix smears are within 1-2” of the pan. So when I Kerdi-band the pan / wall joint, there won’t be a fleece-to-fleece connection at those spots.

Any thoughts?

I’m thinking I could try to cleanly Kerdi Fix a patch of kerdi band just over the smears. Then Kerdi band as usual. Seems like the screw holes are already waterproofed, so I don’t need to get the 2” overlap with any patch, just use the smallest size possible. Am I right in thinking I just need to make sure any Kerdi Fix is covered up - ??
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Unread 05-22-2019, 08:22 PM   #7
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I really prefer to patch my ledger board fastener holes using rounds of the membrane rather than the sealant, Lou.

But in some ad hoc testing years ago in the infamous TYW test facility, I did test the bond of thinset mortar to Kerdi Fix. While not quite as good as the bond to Kerdi, I found the bond to be quite acceptable for setting tile.

That does not, however, speak to the waterproof integrity of the bond between a layer of the membrane and the smear of KerdiFix. It might be OK, but it's not something I'd prefer to have in the receptor area of my shower.

Not sure how you'd plan to patch over your Kerdi Fix without having some squeeze out around the edges, putting you essentially back where you are now. Or am I missing something?
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Unread 05-22-2019, 08:51 PM   #8
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I was thinking about cutting a Kerdi band patch that just covers the Kerdi Fix, and blue taping around it. Kerdi Fix in the patch and pull the tape.

Sounds reasonable in theory, don’t know how much so in practice. But I agree with you on the preference for a better alternative to what’s there now. Any ideas welcome...

Edit: unless I skip the patches. For all of the 5” band at the pan / wall joints, use Kerdi Fix on the wall, and thinset on the pan.
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Unread 05-22-2019, 10:08 PM   #9
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You could do that, Lou. Bit of a PITA, but would get you what you need. Might be easier to simply use Kerdi Fix for the entire Kerdi Band installation at that floor/wall joint.

Or, of course, just install the Kerdi band with thinset mortar and hope the bond between the Kerdi Band and cured Kerdi Fix is sufficiently water tight.


My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-10-2019, 05:29 PM   #10
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Same project, different bathroom. This bathroom has a steam shower, which has been prepped with Schluter products.

The steam control (attached pics) is a round faceplate with a rectangular back that gets recessed into the tile. Problem is that the depth of the unit is greater than the thickness of tile and thinset. So when the unit bottoms out against the Kerdi board, there’s still a weak 1/8” or so between the back of the faceplate and the face of the tile. Manufacturer says to route out the tile substrate (Kerdi board), but I’m leery of doing so. Is there a better option? And should I apply a bead of Kerdi Fix as a sealant to the backside of the round faceplate when it gets installed?

Second question is about the cutout in the Kerdi board for the shower valve. It’s oddly shaped, so the round Kerdi valve seal doesn’t fit. How do I treat the opening? With all the detail in prepping a steam shower, it doesn’t seem correct to then leave a huge hole open to the stud cavity.
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Unread 07-22-2019, 07:13 PM   #11
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Unread 07-22-2019, 08:37 PM   #12
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I'm not at all familiar with the "steam control" you're displaying, nor how it might mount in the wallboard, Lou. Does your steam pass through that item?

You do know that there have been problems with KerdiBoard and steam pipes/fittings in steam showers, yes?
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Unread 07-22-2019, 09:27 PM   #13
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What I’m calling the steam control seems to simply by a digital display and keypad pad to turn on / set the steam shower.

There’s a wire with a pin-type connector coming through the wall that mates with a corresponding connector on the back of the unit. I’ll take some more pics tomorrow.

Any advice on if (or how) to treat the large hole for the shower valve? The Kerdi handbook (page 12 at https://images.homedepot-static.com/...5f6f71f910.pdf) just shows the round valve seal being used, with the opening to the stud cavity visible. I don’t understand how that doesn’t defeat the purpose of sealing the rest of the steam shower up so tightly.

Quote:
You do know that there have been problems with KerdiBoard and steam pipes/fittings in steam showers, yes?
No. I recall seeing (and just looked up) a thread about the board melting, but that was a commercial steamer and this is residential. Have there been more widespread issues? Any links you could point me to?
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Unread 07-23-2019, 10:21 AM   #14
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I recall at least one thread on here about such steam pipe damage to KerdiBoard, Lou, and in discussion of that failure with others at some technical committee meeting there were others who were aware of such problems. No, nothing epidemic that I'm aware of, nor do I think it to be a serious problem so long as you recognize that it can be an issue and take measures to prevent it.

I don't think it makes any difference in that regard whether you're building a commercial or residential steam shower, the steam pipe is gonna get just as hot.

As for sealing around that control thingee you have, I'm thinking a closely sized hole and a good flexible sealant are about the best you can hope for if it needs to be mounted with access through your tile surface. I'm never a fan of nothing but such sealants being the only barrier to moisture, and even less so with moisture vapor, but I can't think of a better way. Perhaps someone else can.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-23-2019, 08:41 PM   #15
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Didn’t get any pics today of the control unit but will post when I do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
nothing epidemic that I'm aware of, nor do I think it to be a serious problem so long as you recognize that it can be an issue and take measures to prevent it.
I’ve used the pipe seals, is there a better measure to take?

And can you provide any insight on how to treat the shower valve hole in the Kerdi board? I still can’t comprehend how leaving that big a penetration in a steamer is ok.
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