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Unread 03-09-2014, 03:45 PM   #1
Sbgamecock
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Scott's master bath remodel

Hey everyone,

I just took the plunge to remodel my master bath. It was evident the builder of my 8 year old house took multiple shortcuts. I had some serious mold coming from the shower grout line and the tile on the curb was loose. As I ground out the grout around my curb, the "grout" turned into a slurry, clearly water had been leaking for a while. At any rate, my shower was recessed into a slab. At demo, I noted not shower liner or membrane(go figure). As I was using the demolition hammer to chisel out the mud bed, the first couple square feet I chipped out the slab unknowingly. This went to the bottom of the slab to a plastic liner which covered the ground. My question is how to I repair this liner as it is now cut in about 4 spots from the demo hammer. I am planning on a top coat liquid membrane over my new poured liner.How would I go about repairing this liner. Also, to fill in the hole in my slab, what should I use. Any help is appreciated.
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Unread 03-09-2014, 03:47 PM   #2
Sbgamecock
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Scott's master bath remodel

Hey everyone,

I just took the plunge to remodel my master bath. It was evident the builder of my 8 year old house took multiple shortcuts. I had some serious mold coming from the shower grout line and the tile on the curb was loose. As I ground out the grout around my curb, the "grout" turned into a slurry, clearly water had been leaking for a while. At any rate, my shower was recessed into a slab. At demo, I noted not shower liner or membrane(go figure). As I was using the demolition hammer to chisel out the mud bed, the first couple square feet I chipped out the slab unknowingly. This went to the bottom of the slab to a plastic liner which covered the ground. My question is how to I repair this liner as it is now cut in about 4 spots from the demo hammer. I am planning on a top coat liquid membrane over my new poured liner. How would I go about repairing this liner. Also, to fill in the hole in my slab, what should I use. Any help is appreciated.
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Unread 03-09-2014, 04:10 PM   #3
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Photo 2

Sorry for the quick reply, could not get both pics on the first post.
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Unread 03-09-2014, 04:24 PM   #4
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Scott,

1- Your under-the-slab liner has more than a few holes in it. I wouldn't worry about those.

2- What waterproofing method were you fixin to use on the pan? I am confused by
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott
"I am planning on a top coat liquid membrane over my new poured liner.
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Unread 03-09-2014, 04:40 PM   #5
Sbgamecock
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Paul,

My plan was going to be to use regard as my waterproofing but I prefer a membrane I don't need to use mesh. So my new plan is to use Mapei Aquadefense on my pan. I am very much learning as I go.
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Unread 03-09-2014, 11:58 PM   #6
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Welcome, Scott.

There's a lot of helpful people here. Make sure you understand all the details of each step along the way. These folks will keep you in the right direction.

What are your plans for the finished product? Do you have a general idea of what you want?
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Unread 03-10-2014, 08:42 AM   #7
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Welcome, Scott.

I think you'll find that both Mapei and CBP list the use of reinforcing fabric as an optional method. Not sure just what differentiation you're seeing in that regard.

My recommendation is that you use it in the optional areas with either of the membranes.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-10-2014, 12:43 PM   #8
Sbgamecock
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Thanks for the feedback. 2 more questions. I just finished chiseling out the last bit if the existing preslope. As I figured, there are a couple slab cracks. The cracks are long, but very narrow(1/16). Would the liquid membranes still be suitable given the slab cracks. If not, what suggestions would you have. Also, the hole I have to patch in the slab, do I need to use cement with lime, or any other additives to make sure the replacement product binds to the slab. My plan is to hang durock or fiber rock for the walls and go with ceramic tiles. Still working to figure out a design.
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Unread 03-10-2014, 01:50 PM   #9
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You will want to use a bagged concrete mix to fill the hole. Make sure the edges of the existing slab are very clean and brush on good thinset (like versabond from H.D.) just prior to dumping the concrete. You want the thinset still wet when you dump the mix. The thinset should be mixed to a latex paint consistency.

If it were me, I'd chip the concrete that protrudes from the sill plates back to flush so my wall boards would span the cold joint of wood and cement,,,,,, also it gets the board down to floor level so you can tie in the waterproofing easily.

Again, if it were me, I'd not consider using a liquid on the floor unless I utilized a bonding flange drain such as a Schluter or Laticrete drain. If you use this type of drain only one mud bed will be required. If using a liquid with a clamping drain such as you have now a preslope and top mud bed will be required.

You will need a wet film gauge to properly apply any of the liquids.
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Unread 03-10-2014, 03:17 PM   #10
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I'm just a DIY observer here, but I can't figure out what you want the finished product to look like and how you are proposing to get there:

1. Final shower drain height? Same as before, higher, lower?

2. Final shower floor height? Was this a step down shower before? Are you changing that?

3. What kind of 'preslope' was there before? Concrete or deck mud or ???

4. How thick is the concrete that is left behind after you removed the preslope? Why aren't you removing that as well?

Just my questions...I wouldn't recommend that you pour concrete until all of your final design expectations are understood, but maybe it's clear to everyone here but me.
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Unread 09-28-2014, 06:58 PM   #11
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Hey everyone,

I have finally gotten to the almost not quite finished stage with this 8 month long project. I have hit a few roadblocks along the way (as evidenced by this taking me 8 months) and have finally gotten 99% of the tile installed. I laid mosiac stone on the shower floor and on the upper part of the wall. These patterns have a really small black square that has caused me some problems. The wall tile black squares are about 1/2 inch side and the ones on the floor are about 1/3 inch wide. My problem is that many of them did not get thin set coverage and either did not lay on the wall/floor in the correct pattern, or just did not adhere very well. I pulled the loose ones and bad layout tiles off the wall and dabbed some more thin set and re-applied. This worked out good, probably did this to about 30 squares. On the floor I have about the same amount but they are so small it is difficult to dab thin set on them and reapply. I am thinking about getting some fast set epoxy and using that to adhere these stones. Any suggestions would be welcome.

BTW I started with a 1/4 by 1/4 notch trowel on the floor and that oozed up so bad that I went to a 3/16 notch trowel after the first row.
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Unread 09-28-2014, 07:19 PM   #12
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Looks very nice Scott! Keep up the good work.
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