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Unread 11-02-2018, 10:08 AM   #136
wwhitney
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Sorry if you've already addressed this, but are you planning a swinging shower door? If so, how is that going to work with a perfectly flat transition at the shower?

One option I've read about here is to build up a small "speed bump" under the shower door, so it has clearance on either side for swinging. If you did that, a 1/16" height difference on either side of the speed bump wouldn't be noticeable.

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Unread 11-02-2018, 10:31 AM   #137
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Curbless, and doorless Wayne.

The shower area is 42" wide by 84" long, the 28" entry to it is at the "dry" end of the 84". I did install sufficient framing in the wall to hang a door if we decide the shower is too cold without one.
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Unread 11-14-2018, 10:55 AM   #138
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Spent the long weekend installing 1/4" Hardiebacker on the shower subfloor (the foam pan will go on top of it) and on the main floor. Installing that stuff is deceptively time consuming; cutting to fit, mixing batches of mortar, multiple tool cleanings between batches, vacuuming and sponging floor, spreading mortar, sponging the back of the HB, setting in mortar, driving screws. A lot of screws. Still have a 1' wide by 10' long section to finish.

The shower floor build up is 3/4" ply recessed between the joists, 1/4" HB, followed by the USG foam shower pan. The HB has two seams, both 41" long. The 41" wide by 84" long USG foam pan is comprised of 6 pieces that will be mortared to the HB. The foam board seams do not fall directly on the HB seams. Do I still need to imbed mesh tape on the HB seams?

A similar question for the main floor. This section of floor is built up with a layer of 3/4" ply recessed between the joists, another 3/4" layer on top of that with seams staggered from the 1st layer, then the HB with its seams staggered. I'll be covering the HB with Ditra Heat Duo mat. Need to mesh tape those HB seams?
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Unread 11-14-2018, 11:18 AM   #139
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Dan, I don't know the exact answer to the seam mudding question but I would think that even a small bump from the mesh tape could throw the foam pan off level.

Intuitively, I want to say forgo the mesh tape in both applications since you're using the foam pan and the Ditra Heat. But I am sure more knowledgeable folks will chime in and either confirm my guess or give you better advice.
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Unread 11-14-2018, 12:26 PM   #140
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Why Hardi under the pan? Seems an extra possibility for unleveling and unflattening with no benefit. The pan had better not be letting water get to the Hardi!
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Unread 11-14-2018, 02:16 PM   #141
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Jeff, since the subfloor is recessed between the joists, and in order to get the subfloor both flat and level, the tops of some of the joist are just a bit lower than the subfloor. I use the HB to bridge those 1.5" gaps, because I wasn't comfortable enough with having just the foam bridge the gaps.
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Unread 11-14-2018, 02:18 PM   #142
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Thanks Wolfgang.

I'm inclined to agree, I don't see a benefit to taping those HB seams in this situation.
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Unread 11-14-2018, 03:17 PM   #143
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If it was me, I don't think I would be thrilled that I was counting on Hardi bridging those gaps, but I understand the idea. It's useless structurally, and if there's movement in the joists, I would expect the thinset to crumble under the Hardi, and then you've gained nothing. I would have figured the thinset under the pan would have done just as much. Another layer of plywood was probably the answer, but I guess that ship has sailed. All of that said, I hope it works well for you, and you end up with a great shower!
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Unread 11-14-2018, 04:55 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
Another layer of plywood was probably the answer,
Was absolutely the answer, Jeff.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-15-2018, 07:38 AM   #145
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Unfortunately 1/2" ply was not an option - the floor would have been too high.

I'm pretty confidant the HB will be sufficient, as I could not detect any deflection over the 1.5" spans when applying a point load. While I imagine there is some it is negligible. There is no mortar on top of the joists for the reason mentioned above.
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Unread 11-15-2018, 11:57 AM   #146
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Any other opinions regarding taping, or not, those HB seams?

Also, how do you feel about Versabond for adhering the Ditra Heat Duo and the foam pan to the HB? I used VB for the HB to plywood bond and have plenty of it left.

I've read so many comments recently about which mortars to use where, and what the manufacturers recommend, and what works in the real world. Versabond was mentioned in another thread as being a decent mortar for nearly any application.
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Unread 11-15-2018, 12:09 PM   #147
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I would use the Versabond for sure.
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Unread 11-16-2018, 07:30 AM   #148
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Thanks Wolfgang.

I hope to get the pan and Ditra laid this weekend.

Given I'm using Versabond for the Ditra to HB bond, how long should I allow it to cure before walking on it?

I'd love to lay out the heat wire this weekend also but something tells me I should give the VB under the Ditra (and the foam pan) at least a week to cure.
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Unread 11-16-2018, 08:13 AM   #149
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Give it 24 hours or 48 hours if you're nervous. There is no evidence that Versabond benefits from the so-called "drying." I once cured a piece of Flexbond in an airtight container and it was rock hard after 24 hours. Your HB/plywood assembly readily (shall I say: perhaps even too quickly) will direct moisture away from the bond, anyway.

Of course, if you're slow you might inadvertently introduce a week's worth of drying anyway. But Schluter also permits you to lay tile right away. I've never done that for fear of squishing around the thinset underneath but it is an approved method.

Only thing, I would wait at least a couple of days before I'd grout, especially if you're using an epoxy.
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Unread 11-16-2018, 09:02 AM   #150
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Will definitely give it 24 hours because, as you mentioned, I certainly don't want to displace any of the mortar by walking on it before it cures. I'll be sponging the HB before troweling on the VB.

Should I also be burning mortar into the back of the heat mat? Recall that it's Ditra Heat Duo, so the backing is pretty thick.
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