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Unread 02-26-2017, 10:16 PM   #1
mstbone67a
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KS Master bathroom remodel

Ok, Hello again everyone.

Plan:
Master bath-
Installing wood plank tile, moving shower pan out , installing bench, tile walls with subway tiles at angle, tiling tub surround and slate tile for the step.


Link to the project pics Masterbath
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...1NsYXhlbWUyd0U

Attached drawing (rough) of the bathroom.

So far:
Demo'd the old watercloset tile/cbu.

Installed permabase in watercloset already, set over thinset and screwed down. Installed new toilet, then found out I had a 14in rough in , with no way to move it due to a joist. I may have to scab in a wall or use those support rods.

Got a few outstanding items/questions for a master bathroom remodel.

1. How do I handle difference in thickness if i add tile warming mat? like this one at Lowes
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Watts-SunTo...eating/3093083

I was thinking about floor heating, just in the main part of the flooring in front of the cabinet and shower. I am not sure how this would work out layer wise. Having thinset , then permabase , thinset, tile.. If i added a tile warming mat that would increase the thickness by 1/8 or x.

2. How would you handle the edge of the tub surround . lap joints, or 45 the angles? Wife wants to redo the surround on the tub. Tile on the wall-easy, tile around the perimeter, replacing the solid surface- mildly challenging.
I figure I will have to add some backing/permabase to create a ledge.

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3. Is this a good idea on how to address the step? Using slate 6x16 tiles.
I am planning to handle the step by adding a board to meet the existing trim. then add permabase on the top (step) , on the front edge add permabase to the nailing board. This would allow me to put the tile on the step and create a lap joint, I am not sure which looks better to overlap the top over the edge or the side over the top. Or should I try to cut the tile at 45degree angle
Which do most clients that you guys do work for prefer? Or using a tile nose from Schluter?

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4. Which tile leveling system will work for best bang/buck? I am just a diy guy. When i purchased the qep or florcraft from menards it mentioned a requirement of having x deep of thinset. I only had a 1/4x1/4x1/4 at the time so I did not use for my kitchen bath. It came out ok but for the master bath I want to reduce lippage.

For the rest of the flooring I am using the 6x24 wood plank tile from Menards with 1/16 grout lines.

I also extended the wall out to the left of the shower.
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I will install the new pan forward aprox 10 inches to add room to add a bench on the back wall.

Oh and we have ordered new sinks, which will sit on a new countertop from IKEA that I will cut to our wonderful non standard length cabinets.

I have been busy working , finally sat down to write this all up to get da tile gods opinions/guidance.

thanks
T
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Unread 02-26-2017, 11:24 PM   #2
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1. Pour leveler over the floor after that warming mat is set, then you have a consistent height for the whole room.
4. Levtec or t-lock are better than the qep system
Honestly having a hard time deciphering the rest of the questions.
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Unread 02-27-2017, 12:15 AM   #3
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thanks

#1--does that mean i have to pour slc into the water closet as well , even though i wont be doing warming mat in there.


On #2,3 Let me get a pic for a mockup.
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Unread 02-27-2017, 10:03 AM   #4
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If the water closet is the shower, no you don't have to pour in there.
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Unread 02-27-2017, 09:26 PM   #5
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Welcome, Thomas.

Ryan, I'd expect the water closet to be the toilet area. 'Least that's what the plumbers hereabouts call'em.

You only need to continue your SLC in that area if you want the top to be flush with the rest of your floor. How had you planned to tile the floor?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-27-2017, 11:18 PM   #6
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Thinset, permabase, thinset 1/4 trowel, 6x24 tiles.


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Unread 02-28-2017, 07:22 AM   #7
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Yep. watercloset .. toilet.

On questions 2,3

I was originally thinking of using the tile to create the step edge.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...W5Nc2R6NlN2dDA
tile-overlap-edge
Not sure why the attachment is showing upside down lol

I am thinking to bring just the finished wood trim up the side where the tile can meet it,
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...3ZDWHRwZW1CRjA
wood edge-basic

or putting a rounded edge like in this pic of my fireplace.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...GFSeTdlM19jS1k
fireplace edge
I am thinking I could do the rounded edge border for the tub surround.

Hope this makes sense.
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Unread 02-28-2017, 08:42 AM   #8
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Thomas, please post your photos as attachments from storage on your computer so they appear in your posts where folks can see them and don't disappear later when your third party storage facility changes the URLs. Use the paper-clip icon above the Reply dialog box. Thanks.
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Unread 02-28-2017, 10:17 PM   #9
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Sorry guess the floor plan pic did not attach on first post either.
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Unread 03-07-2017, 10:50 PM   #10
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OK I remove the solid surface around the hot tub installed concrete board and then install the slate tile.
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I can admit that I do not like the curves around the tub, makes it horrible to cut.
On that front board with the paneling , I ripped it to make it straight on my table saw. I added half of an inch board this was because the previous installer had cut notches into the board and It was wavy.

I'm going to cover that up with a piece of trim board that goes around the edge right up next to the tile.

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Unread 03-09-2017, 09:48 PM   #11
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Minor update and next question.

I did a bad thing. I put that slate in without putting up the edge trim. This resulted in some very crooked potential grout lines. ugh.. I am going to trim the tile with a dremel cutter. I know I messed up.

Ok on to next item, I am going to pull the shower. I purchased the pan, and doors. Wife wants a bench in the back wall of the shower. I have to move the new pan forward about 11 inches.

I am going to have to read up on the shower construction again. I built one a while back in the old house.

Do i have to shim the studs to overlap the edge of the shower pan?

I plan to use hardibacker with redguard rolled on.

thanks.

Other non tile related tasks... pulling the solid surface double sink, to replace with ikea counter top and drop in sinks. Then I will be dealing with the giant mirror that comes with the era of this house.

I also have to work on correcting behind the toilet. It was a 14in roughin but no-one stocks a 14 around here in the big box stores. My plan is to stub out with studs and put shiplap type boards across it. This will prevent from having to do drywall corners/mudding.!!
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Unread 03-10-2017, 07:18 AM   #12
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Pics. Can I eliminate this beam?
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Bringing new pan out to where the level is.

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Unread 03-10-2017, 08:41 AM   #13
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1- I din't understand your questions about your mistake. Some pictures may help

2- Yes provided the side wall is properly secured and doesn't flap in the wind. Or get rid of the side wall and make it glass

3- By all means yes.
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Unread 03-17-2017, 09:32 AM   #14
mstbone67a
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KS Master bathroom remodel

1. Basically I didn't cut the tile small enough so now I don't have a grout line. I should've install the trim first that way I would I even we made the tile grout line.

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Unread 03-17-2017, 11:03 AM   #15
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Here is better pic .. Ugh bad mistake but fixing with my Dremel

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