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Unread 03-23-2008, 02:52 PM   #16
jason1083
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there will be no hydrostatic pressure as the water in a shower pan is under no pressure (other than gravity acting on it).

Properly constructed kerdi showers should be able to pass a flood test, which basicially involves plugging the drain below the weepholes, putting 2-3 inches of water in the shower pan and mark the water level, leave it for 24 hours and note any change in the level.

There is not much way to plug a shower drain (they do not come with stoppers like tub drains). I suppose you could remove the grate and plug it with a stopper or rag but I would not recommend it.

Also 6" of water is a bit much for a shower , you would want your curb to be at least 7" high by my figuring. The kerdi will not be a problem.
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Unread 03-23-2008, 03:18 PM   #17
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Great - thank you for the reply. Yeah, 6" is an exageration. More like 3 or 4".

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Unread 05-09-2008, 08:08 AM   #18
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Better Bench - Kerdi Fix or Silicone?

Hi,

I'm getting there. The 24" Better Bench arrived yesterday, and I'm just about ready to install it over the Kerdi membrane.

The instructions say to fill the mounting holes and the top edge of the frame with silicone caulk. I'm wondering if Kerdi fix would be better.

From what I've read, silicone breaks down over time, hence the need to recaulk your shower every year or two. For this reason, I'm not too hot on using it where fasteners will penetrate the kerdi membrane, through the sheetrock and into the structural framing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Vince
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Unread 05-09-2008, 05:00 PM   #19
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Vince,

Use the kerdi-fix to fill the holes. It should work perfectly.

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Unread 09-10-2008, 05:26 PM   #20
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How to install Rondec corner

Hi all,

Long time no post. The bathroom is coming along nicely, but I have a question.

I'm installing Schluter Rondec on the edge of the shower kneewall and the niches, but I can't seem to find any installation instructions on the Schluter website for the corner pieces. The corner pieces have one leg that slides into the rondec edge profile. However, it doesn't fit in tight meaning that it just jiggles around. Am I supposed to be using an adhesive or something?
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Unread 09-10-2008, 07:02 PM   #21
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Those corner pieces are held in place very nicely with thin-set mortar, same as the Rondec. It doesn't take much.
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Unread 09-16-2008, 04:31 PM   #22
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Kerdi-Fix to restick unstuck kerdi?

Thanks for the info Mike. I did it, and it worked great. The Rondec did a really great job.

I have another question. As you can see in the photo below, I originally had a decorative border around the shower niche. I didn't like the color, so I pulled them off.

1. The Kerdi membrane pulled off of the underlying drywall in some places. I'd say the largest patch is 1" x 1". Can I cut a slit in the middle and inject some Kerdi-Fix?. I don't have enough room to get a 2" overlap with Kerdi Band.

2. When I pulled the decorative triim off, about 50% of the fleece went with it. Is the Kerdi still OK to tile to? I don't mind getting a highly-modified thinset like Megabond if necessary. I won't be grouting for another month or so, and the trim pieces are only 2"x4".

Thanks again for all the help folks.
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Unread 09-16-2008, 07:15 PM   #23
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Vince- I'm not one of the forum kerdi gurus, so I can't answer your question, but I have to sat it looks great so far.

My question is what is that software program you're using? It looks great. Possibly a bit too complex for a guy who crawls around on floors and plays with rocks.

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Unread 09-16-2008, 08:55 PM   #24
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Gueuze,

Thank you for the kind words. I used Google's free software called Sketchup. It's a 3d modeling program for dummies. If you can drag a mouse, you can do what I did.

To give you an example, to do the floor.

1. The software opens with a empty world. Basically just a gray floor running off into the distance with a model of a person to put it into perspective. The "world" is marked with the 3 axis in the way of a a green line for red line for X horizontal, a blue line for Y vertical, and a green line for Z depth.

You basically just draw lines freehand (point, drag a click) or you can start a line in the direction you want and then just type in the length (like one wall of a room) and then hit enter and Sketchup will draw the line to exact proportion. Start at the end of that line and give Sketchup the length of the next wall and so on until you have a nice floor plan.

You can then go on to draw vertically to add the actual walls. Draw the footprint of the kneewall on the floor plan and then use the extrude tool to drag it up as a cube as high as you want.

I'm not doing a good job of this. Check out this video tutorial for a quick idea of how you could do it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjMPX_sJs9A

I have to say that without Sketchup, I would not have been able to plan out my bathroom. I'm just not visual enough. One nice feature is that I was able to draw my tile pattern once, copy and paste it a whole bunch of times, group the pattern as one item, and then move it around the floors and walls of my model to see where I might have weird cuts or little narrow cuts (remember, everything is exactly to scale).

It also let me order exactly the right number of tiles because I could count them right on my model. I got a few extra in for breakage and screwups.

To add in the actual images of the tiles I wanted, I just got an image off the Edilcuoghi website and imported it into Sketchup as a background. It then lets you "paint" the surfaces with the image.

All to say that it takes a bit of practice. I am by no means good with computers. It just took me a bit of practice with simple shapes and floors before starting to model my bathroom.
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Unread 09-16-2008, 09:29 PM   #25
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Cut and pasted. printed. Tatooed on forehead.

Now I gotta look in a mirror to read it.

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Unread 09-17-2008, 06:11 AM   #26
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Vince- "It's a 3d modeling program for dummies. "

No. This is a 3D modeling program for dummies-


gueuze

EDIT- not Dummies, young minds bursting with a yearning to be creative, and their tired, burned out parents.
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Unread 09-20-2008, 12:53 PM   #27
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This is just a repost because the last couple of posts were off topic, and I didn't get an answer to my questions.

I have another question. As you can see in the photo below, I originally had a decorative border around the shower niche. I didn't like the color, so I pulled them off.

1. The Kerdi membrane pulled off of the underlying drywall in some places. I'd say the largest patch is 1" x 1". Can I cut a slit in the middle and inject some Kerdi-Fix?. I don't have enough room to get a 2" overlap with Kerdi Band.

2. When I pulled the decorative triim off, about 50% of the fleece went with it. Is the Kerdi still OK to tile to? I don't mind getting a highly-modified thinset like Megabond if necessary. I won't be grouting for another month or so, and the trim pieces are only 2"x4".

Thanks again for all the help folks.
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Unread 09-20-2008, 03:03 PM   #28
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I wouldn't cut the membrane to make a fix that small, Vince. Can if you wanna, of course.

I can't tell what you've got in that picher. Can't see how bad the condition of the Kerdi may or may not be.

I think the best you can do is set your tile and hope it works. Not sure any of that super thinset pookey will help if there is nothing but the polyethylene remaining. But if you have the time to let it dry and wanna try it, I don't see a downside.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-20-2008, 04:26 PM   #29
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Thanks CX,

I may have underestimated the size of the patch that has detached from the drywall. With this bigger size, is injecting a bit of Kerdi-Fix a valid solution or is there a better way?

I seem to remember you doing an experiment using PL to glue some tiles. Do you think that might be better than highly-modified thinset if I'm missing a lot of ther Kerdi's fleece?

Thanks,

Vince
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Unread 09-21-2008, 10:19 AM   #30
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bump - still hoping for an answer from the Kerdi experts
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