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Unread 09-28-2006, 10:33 AM   #1
AZ_scottie
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Leveling Concrete

I need some advice on prep-work to make sure my concrete slab is level and consistent for laminate flooring (sorry, the wife thinks that the tile looks too "cold" for our living space).

Anyway, I need to patch a few holes (1/2" deep or so, 9" Diam) that resulted from pulling out a nailed down corner bench, as well as repair a long crack that is producing an uneven surface.

I need some recommendations on how to repair these two issues, as well as recommendations on which products are good choices for these repairs.

If anyone can point me to any good threads/information on this site, I would also appreciate that as well.

Thanks,
Scottie
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Unread 09-28-2006, 10:41 AM   #2
prashster
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It's not the width but the depth of the holes that'll determine what you shld use. It the holes are 2" or less, you can use any concrete patcher. If deeper, you might want something with aggregate in it.

The crack is a little more problematic, as a) it seems tohave caused level shifting, and b) it's a symptom that might return.

Have you considered Subflor (Lowes) or DriCore (HD)? These are interlocking, floating OSB panels glued to corrogated plastic substrates. They do a couple things:

1) Help smooth out unlevel floors (there are spacers you can use in conjunction with them)
2) Maintains all expansion gaps and allows slab to move rel to surface floor.
3) Insulates and raises floor from any moisture.

I did this in my bathroom basement and LOVE it. The panels are about $5-6 / 2sqft.

They're an ideal subflooring choice for laminate on concrete. Your wife will love that your basement floor won't feel like a basement floor.
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Unread 09-28-2006, 02:33 PM   #3
oogabooga
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Scottie, if one side of the crack is higher than the other (vertical movement) than you will have to discount tile as a flooring option. No matter what you do the tile is guaranteed to crack because of the vertical displacement.

Rob.
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Unread 09-28-2006, 04:51 PM   #4
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If one side is side on the crack is high it might be to your benefit to grind it down the crack line. HomeDepot has 7inch grinders with a vacuum shroud to keep dust down (you have to buy grinding wheels separate) and then use a bag or more of SLC to level out the floor and cracks if cracks are to big fill them with patching compound you can find this in HD.

You might want to go here. http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/har...er/default.htm

Lexx
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Unread 09-29-2006, 10:30 AM   #5
AZ_scottie
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Thanks for all the great advise. Just to follow up with some of the responses:

I won't be using tile in this room, I figured I had to discount it with the cracks, plus the wife is a bigger fan of the wood laminates. With that in mind, for the flooring underlayment I have had some people tell me that I can just fill the crack with a caulk (to prevent insects) and cut out a small strip of the foam along the crack line to allow expansion/contracition; however, I'm not sure how comfortable I am with this.

Are there any other thoughts that anyone might have?

Thanks!
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Unread 09-29-2006, 03:49 PM   #6
oogabooga
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Yeah, sorry man I didn't read your first post properly regarding the laminate, which is not my feild of expertise. You may still have problems if the vertical displacement still moves with seasonal changes though.

Rob.
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Unread 09-30-2006, 05:36 AM   #7
tileguytodd
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Use a free floating type flooring product. One like Alloc or for real wood Kahrs.
If your vertical displacement is minimal chances are with a free floating floor above the OSB Panels mentioned you'll be fine and never notice the differance.
There is a foam insulating layer that goes between the subfloor and some of these floating floors. Give serious consideration to using them.

The only way you will be able to use any laminate or wood product below grade is to do so on a wood subfloor installation..........the OSB panels mentioned are one of the better methods since it is far less labor intensive and is the only system that protects the wood subfloor from moisture.

Other methods call for treated lumber and treated plywood. either method would be acceptable with a Free Floating floor system.

Good luck
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