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Unread 04-29-2009, 12:02 AM   #1
Deckert
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Barrier-Free on slab

Page 17 of the Schluter handbook has a drawing where the concrete slab is recessed: http://www.schluter.com/media/brochu...ndbook2008.pdf

This is easy enough to take care of if you pour your slab with a recess, but what about after the fact? Im looking for some feedback on grinding/cutting in a recess in a remodel situation. Anyone ever done one that way. What would be the max recess you'd be comfortable with before you started worrying about weakening the slab?

I have a shower to build for a 92 year old lady with extremely limited mobility and am looking for the absolute least change in elevation between hallway wood flooring and the bathroom.

This will be permitted and inspected, so I can't go completely mad scientist on it either.

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 12:56 AM   #2
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I did this one 2 yrs ago. cut the slab with a 3" perimiter around the pan area and removed middle set my plumbing and excavated dirt. then I put in a semi slope with crushed, compacted fill and approx 2" of fat mud ontop of that. used concrete binder to slab and covered it with a membrane. No problems as of yet, I was actually at that house a couple weeks ago too.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 04:22 AM   #3
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Is this a post-tensioned slab? If not, I'd consider cutting out the shower area and excavating the soil like Jeremy said, but I think I'd install dowels in the old concrete and tie in re-bar for a concrete slab that you can build your preslope on. It's a lot of work, but since you'd need to remove around 2 inches of concrete, you'd be getting into the reinforcement.

Using Kerdi would make the amount of demolition minimal, since you'd need only enough room to set the drain 2" below the entrance, and remove enough of the original slab to get the approximate slope you need. You can bond deck mud or thinset to smooth out the concrete. Doweling and tieing the reinforcement of your new work into the old is key, IMO.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 07:32 AM   #4
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like this..http://www.noblecompany.com/Portals/...t%20Method.pdf
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Unread 04-29-2009, 08:09 AM   #5
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http://www.johnbridge.com/accessible_showers.htm


The method is also explained in the Kerdi Shower Book. The Noble Company system is essentially the same -- except for the drain. Either method is preferable to chopping into the slab. The only excavating I do is to relocate drains.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 06:37 PM   #6
Deckert
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Thanks for the feedback all.

I understand the mechanics of using a "hump" in the construction of a barrier-free shower, and have read through both articles linked above. What I'm really interested in is the feasability of grinding down portions of the slab to minimize the need/elevation of this hump.

Using the "hump" is easy. What are my other options?
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Unread 04-29-2009, 07:21 PM   #7
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saftey first

Be sure and check all code requirements for handicapped showers in your area so you're dialed in terms of the county or city's mandates.

You'll have to cut out a cube for the drain anyway . . .

How thick is the existing slab? 4inch, 6 inch,?

if its 6 inch, you could conceivably shape your pan with a cup grinder
and do modest smoothing with thinny, then do your kerdi?

Or as suggested, to give you maximum flexibility cut slab, gravel / rebar-- epoxied into existing slab - pour to suitable height -- float pan as usual
in walk in to cut line as existing screed, then kerdi?

I'd be interested in extending the kerdi out beyond the shower floor and up the adjacent jambs to a point above wheelchair height for extra protection -- bullet proof and all that

good luck

stephen
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Unread 04-29-2009, 07:52 PM   #8
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Every wall in the room will be CBU with Hydroban to a height of 5', and finish surface for the walls is a through bodied porcelain.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 08:02 PM   #9
ceramictec
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I have saw cut into some slabs and used a jack hammer to chip out the concrete,
then created a pitch with the mud, then used a liquid applied membrane with a clamping drain.
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