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Unread 11-29-2011, 03:18 PM   #1
OverBuilt
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Shower Plumbing Drain Rough In

I am in the final stages of roughing in the shower drain on the second floor of my house. I will be using a Kerdi Drain Kit and a mud base.

My question relates to how I should support the drain line so that it does not put un-due stress on the PTrap & Drain flange. The center of the shower drain is about 10" from where the drain line drops straight down through the first floor wall and into the basement where it ties into the rest of the system. The vertical drain line is about 11' long from the elbow (and vent connection) next to the PTrap to where it connects with the drain piping in the basement.

Should I support the short tail pipe out of the PTrap with strapping to the joists on either side? Or should I support the tail piece from underneath in a saddle. Or should I rest the bottom of the PTrap on something solid?

Currently the 11' long vertical drain line is only loosely captured with 2 sets of straps to the framing. I have limited access into this area but I could probably clamp it tighter to the framing but this may or may not prevent it from slipping vertically relative to the framing and ultimately to the drain location.

I haven't been able to find any guidance on how to properly do this. I can envision over time the drain flange cracking the tile which is immediately around and over it. Or the pipe or joints cracking over time due to minor movement caused by the water flowing through it. Maybe I'm over thinking this?
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Unread 11-29-2011, 03:49 PM   #2
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Welcome Sean,

Got any pictures? Normally the drain assembly itself would be supported by the subfloor...
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Unread 11-29-2011, 04:41 PM   #3
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Photos Attached

I have attached photos. The 2" line you see is the drain that goes down about 11' into the basement. The other large line you see is the vent stack for the hot water heater.

The fittings you see are laid out in the general orientation of how they will be fitted into the space.

The PTrap will be located immediately over and between where the 2 - 3/4" feed line elbows are.

Yes you are correct, the drain flange will be supported by the sub floor. My concern is more about how to do I properly support the drain line below the sub floor so that it doesn't affect the drain flange and tile over the long term.
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Last edited by OverBuilt; 11-29-2011 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Change photos.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 05:40 PM   #4
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If it's glued properly you will be fine, I wouldn't worry about it. If you can't sleep well than add more straps were you can
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Unread 11-29-2011, 06:06 PM   #5
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If the flange is properly supported by the subfloor and mortar base, then there is no stress on the pipe at all.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 06:24 PM   #6
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Steam Shower - Vapor Proof Light

I am in the process of building a Steam Shower. I need to find a suitable wet service Vapor Proof light that I can install in the sloped ceiling. I used 2" in 12" for the slope. The light will be on a GFCI breaker.

I have not been able to find anything that looks good that doesn't cost less than about $300 that is rated for wet service and is Vapor Proof.... I can find some exceptionally ugly wall mounts for less than $300 but I don't want to use them for this project.

I want to use a surface mount, recessed style light(s).

The inspector says that he will only approve wet service and vapor proof fixtures in this application so no silicone caulk and pray.

Any suggestions on what to use where to find it and maybe just as importantly, what not to use?
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Unread 11-29-2011, 06:40 PM   #7
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Hi Sean, Welcome aboard.

I have found only "ugly" ones. The problem is that the lens or lens ring has to screw on (there is a rubber gasket beneath it). The thinking is that people won't carry a screwdriver into the shower and try to change a bulb while they're wet.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 06:58 PM   #8
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Sean,
Funny, I just registered on this forum a few minutes ago. Being an electrician by trade, I figured I would not have anything to contribute here.

I have installed lighting, luminares in the trade, in several steam rooms, institutional and residential. In all cases except most recently, the fixtures were spec'd out as bonofide vapor proof "steam room fixtures". These were the real deal, not a generic rough-in can with a "shower trim". A few years ago I installed regular old cans with high quality shower trims in a residential steam room. There is nothing in the NEC that addresses steam rooms specifically.
Basically it says that in wet or damp locations the fixtures must be labled "suitable for wet locations". A quality recessed can with a corresponding
wet location trim is UL listed as an assembly that meets NEC requirements.
So, recently I was called back to that home because the GFCI breaker feeding the circuit that the steam room lighting was on was tripping. I discovered to my horrification that despite the seemingly tight seal between the trim and granite lid, moisture had made it's way into the wiring compartments and was effectively "shorting" the ground and neutral wires. I had to dissasemble the fixtures through the openings in the granite and use silicone filled wire nuts to remedy the situation. A real pain. The housings were pretty corroded, but seeing that the fixtures were in a joist space below a second floor, removal would mean removing the lid, which is resting on wall slabs. Basically un- doable. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't see any cheap solutions to steam room lighting. Two to three bills per fixture. Ouch!
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Unread 11-29-2011, 08:24 PM   #9
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If the flange is properly glued to the riser, what Paul & Nate said. You can also add a 2x block(s) under the P-trap or horizontal run for support.

Oh, and the height of the bottom of the flange, should be at the height of the top of the finished floor (tile). So, the flange should rest on the finished floor or something that is as high as the finished floor, like a chunk of plywood or backer board.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 08:54 PM   #10
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Gents, I greatly appreciate the quick feedback. Finding an electrician on this forum is great. All of us has something to share and something to learn.

So, if you were going to install a light into YOUR steam room; what would it be and where would you find it?

I've seen a few that are LED and some that are low voltage (transformer based) units. The last thing that I want to do is create a problem for myself or for anyone down the road by installing a light that isn't suitable for this tough location.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience.
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