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Unread 10-18-2020, 05:58 AM   #46
Stuart
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Thank you for the answers.


"3. Is a 1/8" gap from tub and 1/4 " from wall correct?"

>>3. Possibly, but for what?>>


I thought you are suppose to leave a gap. Is it not required?
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Unread 10-18-2020, 07:38 AM   #47
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The gaps are required, Stewart.

1/8" between the tub and tile is fine. 1/4" between the wall board and tile is fine, too, but a 1/16th tighter won't be a problem given the size of the room.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 03:48 AM   #48
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Hi,

Does the hardiboard need to be primed?

The TDS says "All Lightweight cement or Gypsum surfaces should be primed with aproperly applied sealer or a primer coat of RedGard.

In another world I live "should" is a recomendation over "must or shall"

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Unread 10-20-2020, 08:28 AM   #49
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Sorry, the TDS for what product is requiring the primer over the Hardiebacker?

The ceramic tile industry doesn't recognize any gap smaller than 1/8th" as a movement accommodation joint.

Must and Shall are requirements, Should is a recommendation. But in product manufacturers' instructions, the recommendations are generally considered to be requirements, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 03:44 PM   #50
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Sorry, it was the Versabond thinset from a previous post. I was not expecting to need to prime the floor, but the data sheet says it's recommended.

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Unread 10-20-2020, 09:50 PM   #51
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You can get by quite well just dampening that Hardiebacker if you're tiling directly to it with thinset mortar. You want the surface damp, but not wet. The Hardiebacker can absorb quite a bit of water, so no need to be bashful about the process, just be sure the surface is not wet when you start setting the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-25-2020, 11:09 AM   #52
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Hi,

Back again..finally to the point of cutting my tiles. I have a inexpensive Skill wet saw (which may be my problem), but I keep getting to the end of my 12 x 12 porcelin tile and it breaks rather than cut. I tried to cut through other than the last 2 inches or so and flip the tile. It still breaks where the two cuts meet.

I bought a new blade (Dewalt), it cuts nice, but actually chips along the length way more than the blade that came which the saw.

Any pointers/suggestions.

Would a manual tile cutter work better?

Thank you
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Unread 10-25-2020, 01:55 PM   #53
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Is this a sliding table saw? If so, do the tracks run parallel with the blade and does it wobble? Is the table flat?

DOes it use a water pump to spray the blade, or is it dipping into a tank to keep it wet? Is the spray getting both sides of the blade?

Is there any wobble in the blade?
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Unread 10-25-2020, 03:47 PM   #54
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Hi,

Thank you for the reply. No, it's not a sliding saw. The blade does not wobble, it makes good clean cuts, at least the older blade. The new blade chips. I will double check the tightness and fit. Also no water pump, just a trough that spits up water as the blade turns.

I think I may have figured out a trick. I noticed the tile always will break with the "nub" on the same side. With knowing that, I can determine which way to feed the tile to get the "nub" on the side I want to keep. Then I can smoothly grind the nub out...
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Unread 10-28-2020, 03:49 AM   #55
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Hi,

Looking ahead at which grout to use. I've read a lot of posts and I'm down to selecting Custom Prism or Mapei Flexcolor CQ. This would be for a floor with 12 x12 porcelain tile and 3/16 lines.

I'm looking for feedback to those who have used them, especially first time tilers and which one may be a bit more forgiving or easier to use.

I realize that each one has it's pro/cons and that they are different materials, which I've read about. Most important to me is ease of use while applying.

Thank you,
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Unread 10-28-2020, 02:49 PM   #56
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I'm bumping this thread because I have the exact same question that Stuart has in post #54 and I'm really hoping for some good info on this question. I'm considering his two grouts plus I'm thinking about Spectralock 1. I've been reading threads for the last week, and there's almost too much information!
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Unread 10-31-2020, 08:23 AM   #57
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IMO, I wouldn't consider a cement based grout in a shower, especially with so many viable choices now available.

I used Spectralock Premium Pro epoxy for my recent shower specifically because it does not absorb moisture, and is therefore less likely to develop any mold/mildew issues.

I may give something like Spectralock 1 a shot in my up coming bathroom overhaul but, if not, definitely the epoxy.
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Unread 10-31-2020, 09:08 AM   #58
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Quote:
So others can learn from my mistakes..here are x-sections of my removed ditra with kerdi bandi. It was way too thick at the seams where the kerdi band was. My guess is..when I was smoothing the ditra out with the float at the seams, my seams were too tight to allow excess thinset to squeeze out and thus it built up there. The application of the kerdi band with more thinset made it worse. My low spots in the ditra were caused by my knee and foot.

Hmm.if I was grading my self, maybe a D...no F because of effort.
The ditra underlayer perfectly shows how complicated the application is for people who do not have enough experience. Personally, I never use this material for my projects, I prefer to use 1/4" Hardibacker underlayment. The strong and flexible Hardibacker is very important because it must overlap the plywood seams. This makes your tiling projects beautiful and long lasting. Remember, any house, either on a slab or over crawl space, is always moving and settling, I have seen projects with ditra underlayments with cracks exactly where two plywood meet.

Picture 1 is showing how I build a bathroom with floor heating. I attached the mat itself with twinset to the 1/4" Hardibacker and then installed the heating wires. The walkin shower in the picture is curbless and is heated as well. When I lay floor tiles, I first cut all the tiles and lay them with no glue on the floor and number them. Then I remove them, and install them onto the motar in their place. I almost never use spacers either, it creates a beautiful compact look.
Picture 2. Before laying Hardibacker on the subfloor, you must be sure all plywood is perfectly reinforced with extra screws. The Hardibacker must be laid offset with the plywood seams to create a smooth bridge over any large imperfections. I am attaching Hardibacker using an air staple gun for durability and flexibility.
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Unread 10-31-2020, 09:34 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Heather
I am attaching Hardibacker using an air staple gun for durability and flexibility.
Which is not an acceptable method of installation according to the product manufacturer nor the ceramic tile industry, Heather. Shouldn't do that.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 06:34 PM   #60
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Hi,

I have my floor tiled in. All went well.

My first comment before a couple of questions is..I now have such a great admiration for those who do this work on a daily basis. I know that I'm a first time DIYer , but the level of detail, planning and physical labor that goes into these jobs is now better understood. Hats off too all those who do this work for pay.

Questions:

1. My 12 x 12 porcelain tile seem to chip easy on the edges (square edges). Does porcelain tile chip easier than ceramic? It's just a few tiles on the very top edge. It happen when I was cleaning the grout lines.

2. How far down is the thinset suppose to be removed before grouting? My grout lines are clean of thinset bulk, but there is a very thin layer of thinset on the edges. Nothing above the top surface. If the grout comes to the top edge of the tile, seems like not an issue. What do folks use to get this clean?

3. Lastly, as I begin to choose my shower/bath tile, I have a "kerdiband bump" just above the tub on the wide wall (the other two are fine) . The rest of the wall is very flat above the kerdiband. Actually is just the lower half of the kerdiband the bumps out. What are suggestions to fix this.

Thank you

(also; can the title of this thread be changed to "Stuart bath room upgrade" seems more appropriate.)
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