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06-11-2015, 08:27 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Thank you Mark! As we find more and more things wrong, I am thinking the same thing. I have a meeting with the general contractor to discuss all the issues. I mentioned some of these already over e-mail to him but he is throwing up road blocks. At least I feel more educated now so I can lay out all these facts. Thank you again!
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Claire
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06-11-2015, 05:33 PM
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#17
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Registered Muser
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 7,387
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Make sure to check out the data sheet for redgard where it clearly shows that OSB in wet areas is not an approved use.
If you want to order a TCNA handbook you can do so from their site.
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06-11-2015, 06:05 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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I just ordered my TCNA Handbook and I"m going to go through it tonight. I also printed up the suitable substrate list for Redgard. Thank you for the suggestions. I'm sure I"ll be back writing more tonight after I go through a few sections of the TCNA Handbook.
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Claire
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06-13-2015, 04:44 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Going through our pictures again and I came across this one. Shouldn't the horizontal joint where the two Fiberock boards meet have some type of tape and mortar? The tile installer did it to the corners but he didn't do it to the horizontal seam. My husband asked him while he was doing this and he said you didn't need it. But my gut is telling me you need it. Thanks!
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Claire
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06-13-2015, 04:56 PM
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#20
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Pondering retirement daily
Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,236
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You are correct, they should be laid like bricks. Its even written in the HardiBoard instructions.
Did he use drywall screws ? If yes, they aren't listed in the instructions either as an approved fastener.
Read the instructions here, page 3 for the fasteners, set like bricks is on page 6
__________________
Paul 1
For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling

http://CabotAndRowe.com
Last edited by Houston Remodeler; 06-13-2015 at 05:09 PM.
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06-13-2015, 05:03 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, Wi.
Posts: 41
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Also the picture of the studs being notched, is a code violation. There needs to be holes drilled, not notches.
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Harp
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06-13-2015, 05:20 PM
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#22
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
You are correct, they should be laid like bricks. Its even written in the HardiBoard instructions.
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Think that's Fiberock she's using, Paul, not Hardibacker.
Generally, wall studs can be notched as well as bored, Harp. Size of permissible notch varies with wall loading.
My opinion; worth price charged.
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06-13-2015, 06:41 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Thanks everyone! So yes, the Fiberock needs something on the horizontal joints?
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Claire
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06-13-2015, 09:34 PM
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#24
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,740
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Claire, please do yourself a favor and find the USG website for that product where you'll be able to download an installation guide. Far better than giving your contractor opinions you gathered on the Internet, eh?
All manufacturers of CBUs and similar tile backer boards require that the joints be filled and taped and they generally specify just what materials must be used.
If your contractor has not followed product manufacturer's installation instructions, he has not complied with building code.
My opinion; worth price charged.
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06-13-2015, 10:59 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Will do CX. Thanks much!
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Claire
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08-26-2015, 07:36 PM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Question about shower curb and shower floor slope fix
We just met with our contractor, the tile company's sales rep, and the tile installer. This is what the tile installer proposed to do to fix the slope of the shower floor:
1. Remove the tiles on the floor.
2. Lift the adjustable drain.
3. Use mortar to create the desired slope.
4. Reinstall new tiles on top of the mortar.
Here is what he proposed for the nails in the shower curb:
1. Remove existing tiles on the curb
2. Place another piece of liner on top of the pierced liner.
3. Seal the seams (not sure with what?)
4. Replace tile
Is OK just to put a piece of liner on top of the curb? Does the shower floor fix sound correct? With our previous interactions with this tile company, I can't say I'm confident with their proposed solutions. Would love to get your thoughts!
Below is a picture again of the nails through the curb. Thank you again!
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Claire
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08-26-2015, 07:53 PM
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#27
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,740
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Not the least bit acceptable, Claire. And two months later you still don't have a new shower?
Remove the tiles and put the new liner over what?
1,2. What happened to the nailed down CBU there? If it will also be removed to install this liner patch, how do they intend to re-install the CBU?
If they don't re-install the CBU, to what will they bond the new tile?
3,4. See above.
And is the CBU not also nailed to the inside of that curb?
[Edit] Seems you're slipping in more questions faster than I can type answers. Or maybe I've developed a new reading disorder.
For the floor, I don't know what he might think is acceptable to patch that mud bed, but the only repair I'd accept there is to remove the existing mud entirely and create a new mud bed. The composition of that top mud layer is critical to the proper function of that shower pan design.
But none of it will be meaningful without a new liner.
My opinion; worth price charged.
Last edited by cx; 08-26-2015 at 08:02 PM.
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08-26-2015, 11:51 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Thanks CX. I know!! It's taken months just to get a meeting set up.  I've asked for a step by step instructions on what they plan to do. Once I get that, I'll post it. This doesn't even address the Redgard issues or the waterproofing issues too. I''m going to post a message on the Professional's forum. I believe that's where I post to find a local Portland, OR industry expert. This tile company seems to think their tile installation is in accordance to code, despite my local plumbing code, ANSI code, and manufacturer's instructions proof. They are looking for their own industry expert too. Thanks a bunch.
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Claire
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08-27-2015, 08:29 AM
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#29
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claire
This tile company seems to think their tile installation is in accordance to code, despite my local plumbing code, ANSI code, and manufacturer's instructions proof.
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Be cautious with your terms in those discussions, Claire. You want to be as clear and correct as possible.
Your local building code, whichever national code it's based upon or adapted from, is law and enforceable as such. The ANSI Standards are not code, they are industry standards. They would win you a battle in court, but are not enforceable as law. Manufacturer's instructions trump all other standards in the industry. And if you have not followed those instructions you have not complied with your building code as I believe all such codes still require adherence to those instructions.
My opinion; worth price charged.
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08-27-2015, 11:57 AM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 20
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Thank you CX! This goes not only to CX but for everyone else on this forum - thank you for the incredible knowledge and honest responses. I tend to intermix terminology - still learning
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Claire
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