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Old 08-02-2019, 06:31 PM   #31
Lucy_Dawg
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Pic 1 - Shower Entrance

I am confused on what to do with the Concrete board in the blue highlighted area. I plan to put the durock cement board on the red areas. but should I span it across the blue area also. If I dont, it wont be no where near level. If I do, how to I nail it down, as I wont be able to nail it without putting hole into liner. FYI, I am going with the PVC liner before pouring slope.
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Old 08-02-2019, 06:33 PM   #32
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:40 PM   #33
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If you're gonna use the USG or Schluter system then the Durock would be covered with membrane, wouldn't it? Maybe you've changed again.
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:46 PM   #34
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Yeah, Davy, post #31 says he changed again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul, Post 31
FYI, I am going with the PVC liner before pouring slope.
Paul, there is no acceptable method of using CBU to create the curb in a traditional shower receptor. If you'll visit our Liberry and find the Shower Construction thread you'll see a good article by John Bridge on how to construct such curbs using expanded metal lath and "fat mud." You gotta do that.

The Noble Company makes a foam cap that might be the only acceptable alternative I've ever run across, but I've never actually used one.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-02-2019, 09:08 PM   #35
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CX, I assume you are talking about building it out like the picture below. If so, I think I am out. I dont think I can do that and make it hold. I think I need to order some durock and a kerdi adapter drain. The deeper I get into this, the more I realize your advice was spot on, from the very beginning.

Let me ask you this, Since I already mage pre-slope, if I go with your original advice, and chip away the drain, and put in a traditional style kerdi drain, I wouldnt need to make a shower pan on top of the pre-slope, would I? I mean, my pre-slope looks great on the level, and you can tile right over durock membrane, so why would I need a second slope? is this right?
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:23 PM   #36
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Where do I end the Durock CBU? On the flat wall, there is not a stud behind where the end of the sheetrock is. Should I cut it back to a stud? If so, you can see in the picture the blue tape, that shows where the stud is, I should just overhand the CBU up to that point correct?

As for the other picture, where the durock will meet the sheetrock in a corner, do I want the durock to lay over the sheerock, or the sheetrock to lay over the CBU? Basically, what is the corner made of? CBU or Sheetrock?

While on this subject, what is the best way to end the tile and make a tile/sheetrock connection?

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Old 08-05-2019, 07:48 PM   #37
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If you're using a surface-applied membrane of some sort, you can end the CBU right against the sheetrock as it is now, since it will all be covered. You will, however, need something to join those two edges together. A strip of 1x4 will work, as long as you have space to fit it in with that foam.

If you're not using a surface-applied membrane, then the CBU needs to go to the outside edge of that half-wall. I'm assuming you're going to have glass centered up on that wall.

Regarding the second picture, if you're not installing tile on the outside of that wall, then you'll want to put a sheetrock corner bead on all outside corners, vertical and horizontal. Use whichever type of corner matches the ones in your house. You can just run the cement board up to where it covers the lumber only. No need to cover the edge of the sheetrock, since the corner bead will be there.

If you are setting tile on that wall outside the shower, then it doesn't matter which is covered, the sheetrock or CBU edge. But you will need to put some mesh tape and mortar there around the corner.
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:51 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
Since I already mage pre-slope, if I go with your original advice, and chip away the drain, and put in a traditional style kerdi drain, I wouldnt need to make a shower pan on top of the pre-slope, would I?
You'll find it impossible to set the drain without full support of the drain flange. For that, you have to force wet mud under the drain after it's set, or set it into wet mud at the time it's attached to the riser.

If you go with a Kerdi drain, you can either bust out the existing mud you have down and build it back up with the new drain, or use the Kerdi drain adapter and build mud on top of what you have.
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Old 08-10-2019, 10:07 PM   #39
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So I made a final decision on how to waterproof the shower. I went with the PVC liner and will be using redgard. I completed the CBU installation, taped with fibatape, and then thinset the the tape/joints.

Should I apply a light sand tomorrow before starting the redgard? If so, what should I use to sand with? Is there any tips on this? Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:15 AM   #40
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Do I need to gently sand the thinset over the joint tapes before redguard application
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Old 08-11-2019, 10:52 AM   #41
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Paul, we can't see your taping job from out here and can't tell what you might have on your walls. If you've created an excessive buildup while taping and filling your joints, you may want to smooth them out a bit. If you wanna do that, I'd recommend a rub brick that you can get from your local home center. Look like thissy here:

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Or, if you have a regular brick laying about, use that.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-11-2019, 04:24 PM   #42
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In regards to post 36, I've attached two photos that are hopefully helpful.

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With this photo, you'll want to make sure there is framing behind where the two wallboards meet. The idea is that the tile will cover both surfaces but the cement board will be in the wet area.

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With this photo, you'll want a metal drywall corner on the outside assuming that you want drywall on the non-wet side.

Additionally, there's no reason that you can't do a divot method using Noble's drain flange and cement board on the curb. I definitely wouldn't use Redgard for the shower pan but to each his/her own.
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:07 PM   #43
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I finished the waterproof membrane and poured the shower pan this afternoon. Finished around 3pm. I was going to set the floor pebble/stones in the AM, probably around 7am. I plan to use the Versabond Modified thinset mortar, as shown in pictures. Also was going to use a 1/2" toothed trial, is all this acceptable? Anything I should do different? Any tips or tricks, DO's and DONT's you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:32 PM   #44
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I'm gonna guess you mean to use a half-inch square notched trowel to set your small stones, Paul, and I'm gonna caution you not to do that. You'll be spreading far too much mortar for those tiles and will end up with more mortar squeezed out of the joints than you have under the stones. At largest, I'd start with a 1/4" square notch and see how that works. If that's still too much mortar, you may want to switch to a vee-notched trowel or maybe Schluter's Ditra trowel if you can find one of those.

The object is to set the tiles with a minimum of 3/32nds of an inch of mortar under the tile while having a minimum of squeeze out into the joints. The squeeze out is optional, but the minimum 95 percent coverage on each tile is mandatory.

I'd also recommend you get the regular VersaBond mortar and not the LFT version.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-17-2019, 10:03 PM   #45
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CX, I will go get a 1/4" square trowel or a v- notched trowel in the morning. I will also get the other mortar. Can you please give me an example from either a home depot or lowes? I am having a little trouble in picking out what type of mortar to use. I will get exactly what I need, just need to know exactly what to get. Thanks!
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