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Old 04-13-2018, 12:45 PM   #1
kjschepp24
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2nd bathroom tackle--

I am moving on to my second bath remodel after all your wonderful help on my first...
I ordered the 1-2 e book on bath remodeling however I can't get it to download on my I pad... And I didn't creat an account so not sure how I can gain access to try and download it... I contacted company but thought I would post on here to see if I get a quicker response

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Old 04-13-2018, 09:25 PM   #2
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Hey, fellow Wisconsinite. I’ve pinged the appropriate party on your snafu. Hang tight for a bit.
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Old 04-14-2018, 07:12 PM   #3
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Thank you— someone from the site sent me an email so all is good until I try and download it and mess something up

Question
I just ripped out the tile in my bathroom and we r going to retile it...does the underlayment have to be replaced if it is good condition? Assuming that I retape the seams, get all the old mortar off and the floor is level/smooth

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Old 04-15-2018, 09:53 AM   #4
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Got pics ?
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:32 PM   #5
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HEre is the bath

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Last edited by Tool Guy - Kg; 04-15-2018 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Rotate pictures to upright position :)
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:38 PM   #6
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What is the underlayment? If its CBU, is there thinset underneath? Were there any cracks in grout or tile before the demo?
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Old 04-15-2018, 01:42 PM   #7
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That looks like plywood...covered in paint. Both are the reason you were able to get the tile up fairly easily. Tiling directly to plywood, while theoretically possible, is a rather narrow road to success for a long-lasting installation. An actual tiling substrate like cement board or any number of membranes would be more appropriate. Although if you use a membrane, you'll need to prepare/clean the surface of the plywood with something like a belt sander outfitted with some 40 grit belts.

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Old 04-15-2018, 02:42 PM   #8
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3/4 plywood subfloor
24 oc floor trusses (2x4 constructed, about 22inch talll)
Wall on the left is outer wall of home 2x6 constructed
Back wall meets up with roof trusses
Wall to right is another bathroom
Trusses I don’t know how long they are but the bathroom in question has from left to right 2 support walls below
1 is the outer wall of the home tha Is positioned about 3 ft to the right of the left wall
And the other support wall is about 4 ft to the right of that wall
There is another support wall about 5 ft to the right of the last one but that is below the bathroom to the right

I placed the tile I just tore out and it had been there for 7 plus years, no cracks in grout or tile, and I believe I used hardibacker board, with appropriate screws and did mortar below the backer boards as well as taped the seams

I ripped out a fiberglass shower

Hope that helps
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:15 PM   #9
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Talking

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Old 04-17-2018, 08:20 PM   #10
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Thoughts on keeping the underlayment
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:24 PM   #11
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If I understood you correctly, you do not have any underlayment. Only a single layer of subfloor with a bunch of paint. You’re going to keep it. Now, I’ve got two questions that immediately come to mind. 1) what tiling substrate do you want to use? And 2) what preparation, if any, do you need?

Now bear in mind that you’ve got a 24” O.C. floor support structure. Not all tiling substrate manufacturers approve their tiling substrate over 24” O.C. joists/trusses. So your choices are limited. You could use Hardibacker. Prep for this would include clearing away any mortar that remains on the subfloor, then install the Hardibacker over a bed of mortar and fasten it down. You wouldn’t be required to sand that contaiminating layer of paint off. Or you could use Ditra XL uncoupling membrane and stick it to the plywood with mortar meeting at least ANSI 118.11. But that would require the removal of the paint so the mortar could bond to the bare, clean plywood.

Two options, anyways.

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Old 04-17-2018, 09:37 PM   #12
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Floor is not painted
Hardibacker board is the underlayment currently present
Mortar bed below underlayment then underlayment screwed into subfloor then the tile
Picture is of the underlayment
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:39 PM   #13
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I am asking because I don’t want to spend my time taking the mortar off the underlayment that is currently present if I am going to have. To take the underlayment out anyways
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:32 PM   #14
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Thanks for clarifying! That makes things much easier for you.

Okay, if you’ve got no reason to doubt the good installation of that Hardibacker, just clean off the mortar on top and you’re ready to start again.

Realize that the seams need to be taped with alkali-resistant mesh tape. It looks like that step was missed on the last install. And because Hardibacker is very dry and uber “thirsty”, it can prematurely dry out the setting mortar and really reduce the potential bond strength. With the old tile coming off so clean, it stands to reason that this exact problem occurred on the last install. Make sure to wipe the board down a few times with a fairly damp sponge immediately before spreading the new mortar for setting the tile.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:38 AM   #15
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Seams were taped ...the old tape came up on demo... I’ll make sure to dampen the hardy before spread mortar as I don’t think I did that last time
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