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Old 03-26-2018, 08:03 AM   #16
Elkski
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I guess the kerdi pipe seals must work for steam. they call them out for the steam inlet in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7F0eEnS4BU
It only takes 11 mins to build a big steam shower.

I like the idea of the Dilex in the corners.
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:53 AM   #17
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I have decided that I am going to try to incorporate a linear drain in my shower in the middle and maybe have a ramp curbless entry on one side.
I have learned I need to slope the ceiling 2 inches per foot so that's a 8 inch drop across my 48 inch deep shower. I can make it slope only over the seating area which is going to be my better bench which has arrived in the mail yesterday.
I have learned that for the steam feed-through I should leave a half inch away from the Kerdi or the Kerdi board and use high temperature silicone to seal that protrusion penetration.
My walls are fairly Plum on the out a quarter inch and the studs are pretty much in line so I'm probably going to use drywall with Kerdi to save money. I had considered the Kerdi board and I may do Kerdi board on the ceiling.
I think I will use Dilex Corner profile for the wall 2 base Junction.

I need to research what lighting to but for a steam shower and figure out how to seal this? Maybe some kerdi board enclosure if with led lights if hearing not an issue. I can get access to the top of the shower from the next room.
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:30 AM   #18
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Going curbless with a ramp and linear drain means I had to extend the end wall out to the end of the 18" ramp. Maybe just a low wall like 28". But then it's only 5 1/2' to the wall behind washer dryer so this big area is getting cramped feeling. Can I find a sliding door that looks​ good? A swinging door was on before but always felt in the way.
Maybe I make a half wall instead of a wall full of glass. This would give me a location for two side water heads. But then I need a swinging door. I put in the old door swing. Maybe new door will need to swing this way. I guess it can hit a rubber stop on extended knee wall.

It is possible to put washer dryer In the next room but will require some thinking.
Got the better bench in place. How does that thin aluminum top become a stiff substrate? I thought it had a hollow area to fill up with thinset but the too is mostly solid.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:01 AM   #19
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Looks like you’ve got the bench upside down. You pack it tight with deck mud (not thinset), then screed it off. Pack the deck mud just a tad higher at the back, so when you screed it, it pitches to the front. For that front edge, mix some deck mud a little looser than normal and really force it through those holes.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:18 AM   #20
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Thanks Lou. I didn't think this was right but havent had a chance to read about how to install the better bench.

I did just finish the 2 day Schluter part 1 class. If anyone doubts Schluters commitment to North America forget about it!!! InstructileS are very enthusiastic and knowledgeable. Rich is a great orator.
A husband and wife and I were on a team and we won the tool bag over 7 other teams for best mockup. I guess it was unanimous by the 5 judges. Kind of funny but I'm proud of this. Made my day.
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Old 03-30-2018, 03:18 PM   #21
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On the ramp, instead of extending that wall as shown, you could instead also ramp it down towards the bottom of the page. So your ramp would be two planes instead of just one plane. That might require moving your entrance to the shower towards the top of the page, or putting a little return on the wall instead of extending the wall, to give you enough room in the up/down on the page direction for the ramp.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:38 AM   #22
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its time for this project to begin

well its time to do the final design and order up my Schluter products.
I ordered a shower bar with a hose inlet and a 3 way diverter valve for the shower bar/hose and top head(s). All Grohe Geneva brushed Nickle.
they dont really make a shower bar for Geneva but they have one recommended.
Ouch just these last final plumbing parts 800$

I think my plans are still the same. Shower size is 48" deep 57 1/2" wide and 8'5" tall.
I still think i will go with a fixed glass on top of a curb for the left side and a swinging door on the right side.
I still plan to use a ramp and i like the kneew wall so the slope is contained. I feel that taking the ramp all the way to he left wall will be easier to tile and keep clean. I am going with a linear drain still but that is some sticker shock.
Two Linear drains may work? currently 58 1/2" between studs.
the 130 cm drain with flange dimensions of 53 3/16" grate of 51/3/16"
Next size up is 140 @ 57 1/8" seems a bit close. grate is 55 1/8"
Please advise. ouch 1000$ just for the drain parts.

I am still using this grohe mixing valve that i salvaged . I am wondering how i will seal around this valve and still provide for service to all the service ports? I dont think this valve can fit in a grohe plastic box? for sure not the modern smart boxes.. This valve is at least 10 years old.
This is a steam shower and i have concerns in this area. Maybe i run the kerdi and leave it intact until service is required . the standard kerdi mixing valve flange at 4.5" dia wont work.. this valves protrusion is 2" dia. so none of the other kerdi seals will fit.

Next issue is the slope of the ceiling to prevent drips on your head while seated on the bench. I've read of large slopes for steam shower ceilings. 1 or 2" per linear foot OMG thats 2-4" drop if i slope to the center!..Maybe 2" is ok but i think will look funny?. Plus i have hung tiles from the ceiling.. What is the largest size ?
Well wish me luck.
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Old 08-16-2018, 02:12 PM   #23
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Should I make this shower bigger?

Someone asked if I can make this steam shower bigger.
It seemed ok size for two before but no bench seat.
The answer is I can make it bigger.
I cam make it yo to a foot deeper. I think my limit is code needs 20" to center of toilet drain from shower wall. So I can go to 60" deep. I can count move the left side wall back 3 1/2" unless I want to order a door smaller in the next room? Currently sized at 32" but 30" would be ok. Then I could move wall 5 1/2". Or I just move the old door opening and smaller size u could then get 9" total so width would be 65". This does uncenter the drain unless I chip out and recenter. To move right wall requires a vent stack to be moved and it's in cement floor.

The Steamist SM-11 can easily handle this size room... it says 400-550 cu ft adjusted.
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Old 08-16-2018, 02:38 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Teddy
I think my limit is code needs 20" to center of toilet drain from shower wall.
I don't see a question for us here, Teddy, but unless your code is strictly local, the minimum dimension there is usually 15 inches.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-17-2018, 09:48 AM   #25
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Cx, I just need confirmation on my idea. Maybe a bigger size than 56x 48" is better?
How do I seal that crazy big valve but provide access to all the service ports?
How does my ramp look outside. Is knee wall a good solution. I am thinking ditra heat in bathroom but not in shower.
The better bench can extend to 62" so that means I can grow rough dimensions to 63" wide from current 58.5". Or +4.5". I can make it deeper to say 52"

I can just plan to recenter the drain. But I need to finalize the dimensions so I can order the right linear drain. How close fo you guys try to get the drain to sidewalls?
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Old 08-17-2018, 11:37 AM   #26
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I think I will recenter the drain where ever that is. Is 1/4"? Or 1/2" close enough ? What's your aim?
I can move out the front wall 7" more than it was. 50" to Glass from back tile and 48" to inside of curb. Go full width of bench so 63" rough opening.

After reading the Kerdi Line installation guide for no access to attach drain from below applications i think i have the general idea down.
I need to level the floor (not sure how to do this with a big hole in the middle?) Dry fit the drain using the channel support. Use unmodified this set to Glue the channel support to the bottom of the Channel body. Then at the same time using same thinset glue this assembly to the floor while attaching the drain line. I think it would be best to have the back half of the foam slope set at the same time? I guess do this during the dry fit stage. Then hopefully the drain channel is level. Then fill in the hole under the drain. Install the front half of the foam slope. Then it seems like I have life the kerdi flap on the flange to bone it to he foam slope all around. If using a mud pack How would one get the mud under this kerdi flap? do I need to pick a tile thickness before I order the grate assembly? I am just assuming my tile will be under 9/16" thick so I would use the shorter grate assembly. I am not planning on any stone or thick tile... just large format non slip tiles. I planed to use the perforated brushed SS Drain. I'm reading that the grate is thin set into the channel body. https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...E/p/KERDI_LINE

The largest foam pan is 55" x 55" so I guess I use a dry mud bed around the edges that the foam will be short? I guess about 3.5" on each end of drain.
I will have to level the floor real good before the pan. What is the best product for this?
How many buckets of sand can you dig out to find the bottom of the trap? Drain heads to that vent stack.
Is there a trick here? Wet the dry hourglass sand? Hairspray?
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Old 08-17-2018, 02:33 PM   #27
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This is the new layout.
I'm thinking the side shower off/on valves should be above the heads so they will drain assuming the lines go around the wall sloping down. Otherwise there is going to be a short blast of room temp water at first. I guess there is nothing to do for the top rain heads.
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:16 AM   #28
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I guess everyone is enjoying the summer and or making lots of money in this busy of times.

I will just post to the Darkness

I am trying to plan the plumbing.
I have to these parts to use.

3 top rain heads.. but plan to only use 2 maybe 1 is enough?
4 Side heads
2 on off control valves
1 3 way diverter... to control top heads or shower bar
1 Shower bar
1 main temp control valve..
Steamist SM-11 and controler

I am only 25 ' from the water heater and water pressure is high. Some of my concerns are preventing the cold blast when turning on the side heads.
I am wondering where to locate the side heads? and if I should use the 2 control valves to control 2 heads each... or one valve to turn on all 4 side heads and then i could use one valve to use 1 or both top rain heads.

Maybe someone will have some input for me before it is to late. Im sure its a week or 3 more from plumbing day
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:26 AM   #29
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Teddy, most of the questions I see are personal preference type decisions. How big should I make my shower? How should I control my plumbing? That sort of thing I try to remain well clear of as I have no real idea what you might prefer for whatever reason.

Once you decide what you're gonna build, I think you'll get more response to your specific questions.

But that's just a guess.
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Old 08-18-2018, 01:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Next issue is the slope of the ceiling to prevent drips on your head while seated on the bench. I've read of large slopes for steam shower ceilings. 1 or 2" per linear foot OMG thats 2-4" drop if i slope to the center!..Maybe 2" is ok but i think will look funny?. Plus i have hung tiles from the ceiling.. What is the largest size ?
I did a large steam shower project similar to yours back in 2010-11. The industry standard insists on a slope, but since it was all about personal comfort, I decided to forego it to make everything easier. I have been using the steam regularly for seven years. I don't think I've ever seen a drip off the ceiling during our 20 minute steam sessions. We do get drips off the shower heads, but it's warm water so no big deal, and slope wouldn't help that. This is just one person's experience and your mileage may vary.
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