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Old 07-11-2019, 07:34 PM   #76
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,762
From here, your mud looks just fine. If you're not comfortable with it, skim it with some thinset mortar and allow it to dry overnight. Make sure you have a good, even slope from the perimeter to the drain at every point. If not, now is the time to correct it.

When you tap on the area of the drain where the bonding flange is, next to the trapezoid holes, does it sound hollow? If so, you may be able to carefully work some mortar underneath with a tuck pointer or something to give the flange more support.

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Old 07-12-2019, 06:48 AM   #77
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SE MI
Posts: 299
What Kman said. If you find there's sufficient mortar under the drain/flange and you cannot pack any more under there, I'd pry the flange up gently with a trowel and put some Kerdifix under the flange and then set a paint gallon or 5 gallon bucket on it for 24 hours until it cures. Kerdifix is pretty good for bonding dissimilar items (I used it along with hot glue to bond my schluter profiles before tiling).

What I did to combat the slightly unlevel drain and flange working itself loose from the drypack was countersunk the 4 holes on the Kerdi flange and ran 4 treated #9 deck screws through to the floor being careful not to apply too much tension to the drain. Once I finished my mud bed, the screws and flange were locked in and didn't move at all.

Your mud pan turned out good!

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