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Unread 06-19-2020, 12:55 PM   #1
alcorey
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Chips in glazed ceramic tile

Installing this glazed ceramic tile by Venis, Porcelanosa group - it's called old dark gray. They are 13 X 39 1/2 large tiles. Coming to find out they are extremely delicate and very difficult to handle (most likely a bad choice in tile selection, but the style looks good) - the edges chip if you even look at it the wrong way!

Lots of small chips where I put spacers and tile levelers ( I used Peygran 1/16 tile leveling system). The damage is done, you can see the pic of what I need to fix on a lot of tiles before I grout - I imagine. I'll be using Prism's ultimate performance cement grout in "new taupe" color.

Any tips or tricks to hide these chips and make it look as good as I possibly can?

I was thinking to possibly find a stain with the closest color match, then grout and then seal with 511
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Unread 06-19-2020, 04:43 PM   #2
Davy
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Hi Al, I believe the tiles we installed on this fireplace wall are the same as what you have. I used small wedges and the joints were about 1/16 wide. We used unsanded grout. The grout matched so well that it was hard to see the joints after we were finished.
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Unread 06-19-2020, 04:49 PM   #3
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Here's a pic before the slabs were installed. Don't know why they are sideways.
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Unread 06-19-2020, 09:01 PM   #4
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Job is nice and clean Davy. I can't see the seams at all. Did you stack or stagger them? Did you have any small chipping where you put the spacers?

The outer color of that tile is much closer to the color of the inner material and I imagine a little more forgiving than my dark gray against the cream interior.

These chips really stand out because of that contrast. My grout should ease the pain a little as it is similar to the tile color - but not close enough and some of the chips are 1/8".

Anyone have any suggestions for a fix?
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Unread 06-20-2020, 12:03 PM   #5
Tool Guy - Kg
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The most proper fix is to replace the tile.

If that's not in the cards, you can use colored markers (the ultra fine tip variety you'd find at an artists' store). Do not color in the chip like you would with a drawing. You need to lightly tap many, many tiny dots onto the tile with space between the dots. Start out with a light smattering of dots and slowly add dots to darken the color. Take a step back after you've put some dots on and see what it looks like from several feet away. Be artistic. Add a couple dots, stand back, & evaluate again. Use more than one color to get the best match.

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Unread 06-20-2020, 02:42 PM   #6
alcorey
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Thanks Tonto, replacing them is not an option - most all of the chips came from the tile levelers and were not seen until they were removed and the tiles were already bonded. It happened most likely because the tiles are not flat and clinching down on the tile levelers apparently put too much pressure on the edges. I will add I am very surprised and disappointed that they are so fragile - especially at $14 a square.

Your idea is probably the only solution at this point - I imagine I'll have to find permanent markers and continually keep them sealed.

At any rate, I hope my experience can help someone who may be considering this wavy tile to avoid the issues I've run into.

Maybe the thread title could be changed to "Wavy tile chipping problem"?
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Unread 06-20-2020, 08:13 PM   #7
Davy
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Al, I did not stagger the joints, just stacked them. I used small plastic wedges and kept the joints no bigger than 1/16. There were some very small chips along some of the edges but the grout matched the tiles so close that they disappeared. I actually got lucky the grout matched so well. I didn't use a leveling system, I did mud the wall so it was pretty flat.
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Unread 07-28-2020, 10:47 PM   #8
Dun Wright
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Here are a couple ideas you could try...

https://www.amazon.com/Kampel-SeamFi...5997804&sr=8-6

We used seamfil on counters, vinyl floors, and cabinets a lot. It is not as durable as an epoxy per say but I think it might last longer than a sharpie. You can mix almost any color with the master set (about $60). The material is thicker than paint but not nearly as thick as caulking, so it allows you to add some texture.

or something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Tile-Repair-K...997984&sr=8-18
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Unread 07-30-2020, 04:01 AM   #9
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Hi Al,

I used to keep small cans of primary color enamel, red, blue, yellow, plus white. Experimenting a while I could come up with an almost perfect color match. If the glaze has a sheen use gloss paint. For matte use flat. Experiment a bit before you commit.
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