Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 11-08-2019, 08:29 AM   #106
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
Thanks, others (different website) have also recommended that I go with very light gray if I choose a gray.

Perhaps I should wait to choose the grout color until after I've installed the tiles? That way I could go with white grout if there are noticeable errors in the installation, to hide that.
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2019, 08:32 AM   #107
makethatkerdistick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: North Texas
Posts: 821
Laticrete's "Silver Shadow" is the lightest grey they make. I used it on white tile, and it was perfect. Gives a small contrast without overly emphasizing grout lines. You can chose that color among many different Laticrete grouts, I believe. I used Spectralock and am happy with the results.
__________________
Wolfgang
makethatkerdistick is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2019, 08:13 PM   #108
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
thanks Wolfgang I'll check that out.
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2019, 08:20 PM   #109
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
I was wondering, if the hardieboard extends across stud A and then across stud B and then terminates, is it acceptable to only have screws in Stud A? The Hardiebacker instructions says it has to be "supported" at each edge of the backerboard but it doesn't say whether it has to actually be screwed into the final stud where the edge of the board lies.

I ask this because I have one area where the stud is partially blocked and there isn't going to be much room to put the screws in that one. Thanks.
Attached Images
 
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2019, 09:37 PM   #110
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 88,428
Difficult to comment without a little context, John, but if you'll read the online installation instructions, you'll find that James Hardie requires, in what appears to be your application, that fasteners be 3/8ths of an inch in from the edges of the panels.

If I had a better idea what your actual "problem" might be, I may be able to tell you whether I'd be comfortable deviating from the manufacturer's recommendation.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-09-2019, 06:36 AM   #111
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 2,163
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
I think it'll be a challenge to get screws 3/8" from the edges in Hardie without pre-drilling/counter sinking; once the screw head starts trying to counter sink itself the edge may blow out.

But also, if I'm looking at it right, if you run the Hardie across stud B it doesn't look like you'd have anything to attach your adjoining drywall to.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.

Last edited by ss3964spd; 11-09-2019 at 06:51 AM.
ss3964spd is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-09-2019, 07:19 AM   #112
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
OK that answers my question. I thought they meant that the screws could be no closer than 3/8 inch to the edge but it sounds like they require them to be 3/8 inches from the edge.

I just set those studs up temporarily for the photo -- the area I'm talking about where the issue is, the new stud hasn't been installed yet.
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-09-2019, 07:50 AM   #113
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 88,428
Still doesn't tell me anything about the application, John. Perhaps I'm just more dense than the other members, but If I knew what you were doing I might better weigh in on your fastening issue.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-09-2019, 09:44 AM   #114
Tool Guy - Kg
Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
 
Tool Guy - Kg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 21,234
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWOrl
...I thought they meant that the screws could be no closer than 3/8 inch to the edge but it sounds like they require them to be 3/8 inches from the edge.
You had it right the first time:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardibacker’s Instructions
...Keep fasteners between 3/8 in and 3/4 in from board edges and 2 in from board corners....
As far as your current question, we need more info. It may be that using a kiln dried 4x4 in place of 2 adjoining 2x4s may be appropriate. But we really could use info on your exact application. Please elaborate.

__________________
Tonto Goldstein... but my friends call me Bubba

Help an awesome summer camp!
Tool Guy - Kg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-09-2019, 08:55 PM   #115
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
Thanks. I'll post a new photo tomorrow evening (have to go out to that house to take it).
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-10-2019, 06:01 PM   #116
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
This is it. As you can see the stud on the left (with green tape on it) is narrow because the one next to it had to be furred out. There isn't much space to screw the board onto. Would it be okay to put another stud to the left of that one and use that for the screws? Or does it have to be screwed onto the stud with green tape on it, to be done properly.
Attached Images
  
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-10-2019, 08:51 PM   #117
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 88,428
Add another 2x4 nailer and never look back, John. That will work quite satisfactorily, but if you're still concerned, apply your CBU to the wall with the added nailer first so the adjacent wallboard will help support it in the corner. It'll actually be easier to install the adjacent wallboard first since you'll have plenty nailing room on your reinforced framing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-11-2019, 08:40 AM   #118
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
Great, I'll do that...thank you.
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread Yesterday, 09:20 AM   #119
JWOrl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 57
I am going to be using #9 Backer On screws to secure the Hardiebacker.

If I want to pre-drill pilot holes (to help prevent the CBU from fracturing close to the edges), what kind of drill bit do I use?

I read online that you should use a countersink drill bit but I'm having trouble determining the size to use for #9. Someone on an old old thread here said 5/32 but I haven't seen that sold in stores with the countersink bit. Will 11/64 work? Thanks.
__________________
John
JWOrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread Yesterday, 10:35 AM   #120
ss3964spd
Moderator
 
ss3964spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairfax, Va
Posts: 2,163
Send a message via Yahoo to ss3964spd
For the holes through the board just use a bit approximately the diameter of the shank of the screw, but not the diameter of the threads. For counter sinking, select a bit roughly the diameter of the head of the screw.

I don't think you'll have an issue with the small holes, but likely will when the heads start to sink. For the most part I ran the screws in just until the heads started to sink, then backed them out a bit, ran them back in a little deeper, then back out, etc. The nubs on the underside of the head are supposed to eat away some of the material as they spin, self counter-sinking, but they don't work all that great.

I will tell you that if you really are 3/8" from the edge you'll blow the edges out. That's pretty close.
__________________
Dan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
ss3964spd is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Is it okay to mix durock and hardiebacker together on adjacent walls? fredhead Tile Forum/Advice Board 21 08-31-2012 11:19 AM
Hardiebacker walls over hotmop pan Tom prochoren Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 01-10-2012 08:42 AM
Kerdi Shower Install with HardieBacker Walls mike99 Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 01-01-2009 05:57 PM
Help! cutting hardiebacker to fit curved walls teehee Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 10-12-2006 05:57 PM
Hanging Hardiebacker and tiling walls - leave 1/8 gap or not? WEEKEND BUILDER Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 04-25-2006 10:42 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:44 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC