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Unread 05-19-2011, 01:34 PM   #1
scut207
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BK's Closet Shower conversion

My 1962 split-level had a small powder room with a closet right next to it. There is a bedroom on this lower floor so I decided to convert the closet to a shower.

Unfortunately the supply and return ducts are right over the space. Its not gonna be ideal for people over 6' tall. I have some questions about this later.

I have read the tutorials in the liberry and just want to confirm that I got it right before I get much further.

Here is what I did so far:

1. Ripped out old door frame and added 2x4s and a base(sill?) which I affixed to the slab with tapcons.

2. stacked 2 more 2x4's, total of 3 for the curb.

3. Notched back all the studs to a height of ~9"s

4. added another 2x4 in between the studs, then a 2x6 going vertical, these are flush with the notched area of the studs.

5. cut to size and laid felt paper on the Slab, then stapled the wire mesh to the felt paper.

6. used the calculator to make my Portland cement & sand mix for the pre-slope and it was about dead nuts on. marked the studs for correct height and poured the preslope.

7. Preslope wasn't as even as I wanted, so I used some thin set to build up a valley that I made thru inexperience.

8. checked all the slopes with a 2 foot level. The seem to be a little steeper than what I thought they should be, the bubble is all the way out to the upper side. But its barely noticeable when you stand on it., so I think I am good.

9. I ordered the outside curb PVC liner pieces.

Next steps:

10 Do the PVC liner, the felt paper, the hardi-board per the tutorial.

11. Lay about a 1/2" of mud, lay more diamond lathing and form the lathing over the curb. lay the rest of the floor. Use Type S mortar for the curb.

12. Tape and mud the seams,

I should then be ready to tile.

Questions:

do I use hardiboard for the ceiling as well? If so do I us the roofing felt as a moisture barrier above it since this is so tight of a space?

I planned to tile to about 3" below the shower neck. I was going to prime and paint. Now I am curious as to whether I should just tile the whole way up, since it the ceiling isn't all that high.

The frame for the Shower door now has double studs on both sides, might be a bit overkill, but I eventually want to put in a tempered glass door. Budget constraints are forcing me to use a curtain for a month or two. Is there anything I should do prior to tiling to facilitate adding a glass door later?

I am also tiling the bathroom floor with a thermal wiring under Ditra it since I live in upstate NY and that slab gets cold. I assume tiling the curb is the last step in this whole process?

Any advice on a clean way to finish the transition from drywall to tile on the door frame?

Also I know this is outside the realm of tiling, but would putting two 4 inch halo can lights in the farthest corners from the shower entrance be enough light in this area? I cant center on because of the existing ducting.

Heres some pics & drawings so far:


Thanks ahead of time.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 01:46 PM   #2
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Heres a pic of the plumbing prior to filling the hole with concrete and then laying the roof felt
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Unread 05-19-2011, 04:19 PM   #3
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Did I miss it or is there a vent for the shower drain?
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Unread 05-19-2011, 04:56 PM   #4
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There is an air intake valve. Its not visible in the pictures, but the plumbing has passed code.
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Unread 07-22-2011, 08:35 AM   #5
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Well the shower got put on hold so I could finish the rest of the lower floor. If anyone could comment on my steps above that would be great.

Pic below(before& after) includes the 12x24 Mora Medely tile I am using for the fireplace surround. I thought it turned out pretty decent for first go at tiling. Bottoms of the bottom row tile sagged out a little due to the thinset sagging I think maybe a 1/16th of an inch. I think I can make up for it by floating the legs a little further out.

The old area was wood paneling (love the 60s) and in combo with the full facade made the family room feel real dark, damp and cold. So I cut the facade down, ripped out the paneling, and put up drywall. ripped out the ceiling fans, put in canister lights. Installed 7.1 surround sound behind the drywall. Gonna put radiant electric heat under new floating floor.

Fire place design:

* Continue down the legs with the tile.
* Put a nice 2 1/2" thick red oak mantle up top
* Install wood burning insert
* Pouring my own 2 1/2" hearth pad using Quikcrete counter top mix.
-- Create a Malamine mold & rebar reinforcement
-- Gonna add a tan colorant to the concrete
-- Acid stain with Coffee color
-- Polish & seal
* Tile the portion under the pad
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Last edited by scut207; 07-22-2011 at 08:41 AM.
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Unread 07-22-2011, 08:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
do I use hardiboard for the ceiling as well? If so do I us the roofing felt as a moisture barrier above it since this is so tight of a space?
No to both Hardi and felt, unless this is a steam shower.

Quote:
I planned to tile to about 3" below the shower neck. I was going to prime and paint. Now I am curious as to whether I should just tile the whole way up, since it the ceiling isn't all that high.
I'd tile, but that's just me.

Quote:
The frame for the Shower door now has double studs on both sides, might be a bit overkill, but I eventually want to put in a tempered glass door. Budget constraints are forcing me to use a curtain for a month or two. Is there anything I should do prior to tiling to facilitate adding a glass door later?
Check with your proposed glass supplier and verify your framing is adequate for the door and hinges you are contemplating. Check everything for square and plumb, twice.

Quote:
I am also tiling the bathroom floor with a thermal wiring under Ditra it since I live in upstate NY and that slab gets cold. I assume tiling the curb is the last step in this whole process?
The curb can go in when it makes sense from your scheduling perspective. Allow for the curb when laying out the wire.

Quote:
Any advice on a clean way to finish the transition from drywall to tile on the door frame?
Bullnose is traditional. A neat bead of caulk also works if a bullnose tile is not available.

Quote:
Also I know this is outside the realm of tiling, but would putting two 4 inch halo can lights in the farthest corners from the shower entrance be enough light in this area? I cant center on because of the existing ducting.
I dunno. Mock it up and see. I suspect that if you used a drop-style glass cover, you would get plenty of light. A deep recessed light may make shadows in front, but considering the light from the rest of the bathroom, the two cans you are planning may be plenty.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:05 AM   #7
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Ugh

Is there a mistake in the Liberry Link on the construction of the shower pan?

http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

He states that you should use roof felt between pre-slope and slab, which I did, yet I am reading here and there in the forums that you are supposed to use a thin coat of thin set?

What are the repercussions of having the tar paper as a slip sheet on slab? I already have the liner down and the CBU up, I was pretty happy with the slope and I'd like to not have to pull this all out.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:39 AM   #8
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If you reinforced the preslope and it is a minimum of 3/4" thick, then having tarpaper as a slip sheet (cleavage membrane) is not a problem.

Harry's sebsite may be down at the moment.
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Unread 10-10-2011, 08:27 AM   #9
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Ran into some issues. Any advice would be great.

I have a CI closet flange that is installed slightly below (1/16"-1/8th") the level of the concrete around it. I am installing 1/2" Wedi board as a thermal break. Breaking up the slab and Calling a plumber to install a new Closet flange is kinda out of the price range right now.

I have read that closet flange extenders work quite well, but am unsure of the steps here since many of you say that the flange should rest on the tile. It doesn't look like any of the bolt down extenders would rest on top of the tiled surface, with the exception of the Oatey Twist-n-Set 4", I have measured the inner diameter of the pipe and its like 3 3/4".

Is this the correct product?

If not should I just use the bolt on extenders and Tile up to them?

So here are the layers that I will have.

5. Tile
4. Thin set - with radiant heat coils.
3. wedi board
2. Thin set
1. Cement slab

Also, there is a thin hairline crack extending partway from the outside wall about 3 feet into where the tiled are would be, is the wedi board by itself a decent crack isolation in your experience? The website is somewhat ambiguous as it states that normal wedi board is crack isolation, yet other parts of the website are saying you should use a liner.


Last Issue. when I was building the curb I used a slightly wetter mix of the type N mortar. but it was very clumpy. I ended up really having to push on it to get it into the lathing. To make it smooth I had to bring the cream to the top. After drying it came out really nice, and pretty damn square with a half bubble towards drain, and very sturdy. I 220lb can jump on it without it breaking even though it sounds somewhat hollow, prob due to the 2x3s underneath it. Is the hollow sound normal? There was some crumbling on the very edge where the mortar meets the dry wall can thinset be used to fill that?
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Last edited by scut207; 10-10-2011 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Added info more questions
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Unread 10-10-2011, 09:00 AM   #10
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Brian, if your CI pipe is clean inside that Oatey flange should fit in there. They're somewhat adjustable. Can't say if you'll need to remove the existing flange to be able to use it or no.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 08:30 AM   #11
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CX,

The twist-n-set will work perfectly, tested it yesterday. The rubber gasket starts at around 3.6" and can expand while you twist it. So thanks!

Could you comment on the other questions, I think you posted while i was editing/adding them.
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Unread 10-26-2011, 11:27 AM   #12
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I hot glued down the warming mats to the Wedi-Board. I intend on using SLC to bury the warming mat as I am a little uncomfortable with my skill of burying it in the thinset and having the floor come out level.

It is my understanding the the SLC primer is to keep the moisture from wicking into the sub-floor, is this true, and if so it seems like overkill on WEDI since it is waterproof.

Any thoughts?
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Unread 10-26-2011, 11:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
It is my understanding the the SLC primer is to keep the moisture from wicking into the sub-floor, is this true, and if so it seems like overkill on WEDI since it is waterproof.
I think you might wanna bounce that idea off the manufacturer of the SLC, Brian. That's not my understanding of the purpose of the primer at all.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-26-2011, 02:10 PM   #14
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CX,

Not trying to argue at all just trying to understand. Prior to posting, I tried searching, which I believe is against forum rules

I am refering purpose of SLC primer to post 11 in this thread:

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=3329

I called the Henry tech support line and they would not support pouring SLC over wedi as they are unsure of the adhesion. I called the wedi tech and they said that this is a fairly common application He did say that priming would not hurt the wedi-board tho.

Again thru forum search I have seen this system mentioned by several pros and this seems to be the way to go?

Post 2
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...light=WEDI+SLC

Post 17
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...EDI+SLC&page=2
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Unread 10-26-2011, 03:20 PM   #15
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Argument is perfectly acceptable here, Brian. I, of course, never engage in it, but others certainly do.

Your application over the Wedi is not likely an application anyone, including Wedi and the manufacturer of your SLC, has actually tested and you're mostly on your own.

I don't doubt the primer helps seal the surface to which it's applied, but the part of flatfloor's comment that I think is most applicable it "...creates a chemical bond to the substrate..."

I see nothing at all persuasive in either of the other two links. Indeed, I don't even see the question in there. What am I missing?

I note that the Henry's tech told you they would not support using their primer over Wedi board, but I see no indication he told you they would support using their SLC over the Wedi board without the primer. Is that the case?

If you feel comfortable installing the SLC without using the manufacturer's recommended primer, by all means do so.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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