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Unread 03-29-2007, 08:03 AM   #16
ddmoit
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That sounds good to me, Todd.
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Unread 03-29-2007, 08:55 AM   #17
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Scott. You can lower the entire drain grate assembly another 1/8" by using shorter screws. For now, temporarily remove (or back off) those two drain grate screws, set the grate and lateral adjustment collar onto the drain and you will see what I mean.

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Unread 03-29-2007, 10:00 AM   #18
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You don't need shorter screws. Rotate the retaining collar to position the two elongated trapezoid holes over the screws. Viola!!! Seems Mr. Schluter has thought of everything. Seriously, I've done it that way on thin tiles, This will leave you the thickness of the grate which with the thinset and glass should solve your problem.
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Unread 03-29-2007, 11:13 AM   #19
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You are absolutely right Jim about aligning the screws up to those elongated slots on the lateral adjustment ring but...by using shorter screws, you can even lower more, an additional 1/8".

The screws, at least on the drains I have, are actually long enough to go through those elongated slots and hit the drain, preventing it from being lowered all the way.
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Unread 03-29-2007, 12:04 PM   #20
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Mike2,
We both are correct in what we say. I have never seen them with the long screws as you described. I just got off the phone with my rep and He informs me that there are some with longer screws. This is normally not the case, but for some reason it does happen.
Thanks for the info, it is a good thing to store in the old memory bank.
Jim
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Unread 03-29-2007, 12:22 PM   #21
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Thanks Mike and Jim. I have the shorter screws, and it is a good tip to align them with those elongated slots - I might not have payed attention otherwise. It appears that I might still end up with a slight lip even tough I have tightened everything down. The metal itself above the lateral adjustment collar is almost 1/4". With these 3/4"x3/4" 1/8" thick glass tiles the thinset does not raise their height much at all (due to the trowel size to prevent thinset from squeezing up in the grout joints). The Kerdi membrane will raise the tile a bit.

I have attached a pic showing my drain and the 1/4" height over the lateral adjustment collar.
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Unread 03-29-2007, 12:31 PM   #22
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Well, then I still like Todd's skim coat suggestion.
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Unread 03-29-2007, 12:35 PM   #23
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Unread 03-29-2007, 01:41 PM   #24
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Jim.
Thanks for the follow-up on different screw lengths. All the Left Coast versions of these drains I've ever seen have the long ones.



Wasn't even aware shorties existed. Learning something new everyday, eh?

--------------

Scott, once the drain grate assembly is nested into the recessed area on top of the drain and one layer of Kerdi is applied, only half of the metal grate should rise above the surface plane of the floor [see yellow marks]. Does that sync with what you can see happening with your drain? Or do we unknowingly have yet other differences with these drains?



Do you think your tiles with bond coat will be even thinner than that?

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Unread 03-29-2007, 02:48 PM   #25
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I see

Mike,

Thanks for the info. As I planed out the tile to the grate, I could see that it will be very close. It would be easy if they were bigger tiles that would bear on the flange of the drain where the Kerdi membrane will be.

The only trick with these 3/4" x 3/4" mosaics will be floating them in the span between the support area (outer flange where the Kerdi membrane will be) and the drain grate. I can apply thinset over the lateral adjustment collar and then place them without squishing them down to keep them on plane. A picture may help. You can see the difference between the tile height and the drain grate height if I just place it on the lateral adjustment collar.
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Unread 04-01-2007, 10:32 PM   #26
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a wild idea

After careful analysis after applying the Kerdi membrane to the floor and drain flange, it still appears that the tiles will plane in under the lip of the drain.

I've given thought to the idea of building up with thinset using a square notched trowel and filling in. Due to the way the drain gets locked in with thinset on both height and lateral adjustment, I think it is best to go by the book and simply install the drain at tiling time with no prvious buildup of thinset on the Kerdi membrane.

I studied the Kerdi installation video on tile installation and see that the main advantage of the lateral adjustment collar is to minimize cuts. It is 1/8" thick. The thinset will actually lock it in place and the thinset will end up locking the height adjustment of the drain. Therefore, it seems that since my problem would be that the drain lip will be at least 1/16" too high for my tiles, instead of using the supplied lateral adjustment collar, I could make one out of metal lath. The metal lath is not nearly 1/8" deep in profile. I could fit it tight for the vertical adjustment. The vertical adjustment piece would then come in contact with the inside of the drain assembly, so I would have to cut it down at least 1/8" inch to compensate for the elimination of the plastic lateral adjustment collar.

Thoughts???
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Unread 04-02-2007, 08:10 PM   #27
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bump

bump.

Thoughts on the above idea?
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Unread 04-03-2007, 04:19 AM   #28
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Hey Scott,

I used the same tile with the Kerdi drain. I am just a DYIer and it was my second tile job. I cut the screws down and lined up the holes as some others suggested. I did have to build up around the drain a layer of thinset. Wasn't that hard.

I tiled all around the drain leaving space to fill with a skin coat, but close enough to see where the drain would line up with the tiles so I knew where I wanted the drain. I then locked the drain in place with a skim coat (thicker than skim right around the drain to lock in the flange). I kinda feathered it from the drain to the existing tile so there was no bump or ridge. Let it setup and then put the tile in and adjusted the drain height. Did the job about three years ago and works fine. Even used the wrong thinset and still no tiles moving or cracked grout.

I did learn from this job I will never use little tile again. Such a pain to work with. As the pros say you better have your substrate level and flat. Not much adjusting you can do with a 3/4 in tile. I also didn't like the way the carter series picks up grout. I used a white sanded grout it gets in every little nook and crevice in the tiles. Even after many, many, many, many, many, many washes with different solutions and pads there is a slight white washed effect to the tile. It really changes it's look. My advice set yourself a little test board with some scrap tile and test your grout there to make sure you are happy with the final look after the grout sets up. It may change your mind about color.

Good luck,
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Unread 04-03-2007, 08:54 AM   #29
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Scott, when you actually set the tiles they will not drop down low next to the grate like your picture suggests. Before setting those tiles the entire recessed area "A" will be filled with thin set mortar and left to firm up. At that time those thin tiles should be very close to being level with the top of the grate.

How about this? Place a piece of Kerdi temporarily onto the drain flange. Then using a straight edge, lay it flat across the flange "B" with one end at the drain grate. That is the approximate height of where the bottom of the tile will be, which is what I tried to show in post #24 above.

-----------------------------------------------

P.S. The actual tile height will be even somewhat more, raised by the thickness of the thin set under both Kerdi and tile.

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Unread 04-03-2007, 09:38 AM   #30
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Thanks

Mike and Frank,

Thanks for your replies.

I will do as you suggest, tile toward the drain so that I know where the tile will line up, and then I will skim some thinset into area A and let it set up. I will then complete the tile in area A.

I will post a picture when it is done. I am doing this today. Kerdi'd the floor yesterday.

Frank, I agree these 3/4" mosaics are a bit of a pain to work with. I figured out with the grout that you have to start your clean-up within about 5 minutes for better results, but even then, with all of the pits and crevices and recesses in the tile, the tile will end up being altered by the grout. Fortunately, I like the look, though I realize if you wanted the "clean" look from these tiles you would inevitably be disappointed.
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