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Unread 10-14-2020, 10:14 AM   #1
EDDY IN MONTREAL
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Adhesive used for laying down a Quartz sill plate

Hello everyone.

I bought a quartz counter and a shower sill plate from a Granite/Quartz store. The installer installed only the counter but not the sill plate. He said that it's your tiler that would install it. I explained to him that I am the installer. He said to use thinset. (not sure)!

My shower curb is wrapped in a Schulter Kerdi membrane. What type of adhesive would I use to lay down my quartz sill plate to the membrane? Can I just use a clear silicone caulking?

My shower sill plates are in an L shape using 2 pieces of quartz.
The quartz sill plates measure 74x5" and 32x5"

Many thanks again for the support that this forum brought to me over the years.

Sincerely
Eddy
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Unread 10-14-2020, 10:36 AM   #2
Carbidetooth
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Modified thinset. I'd sometimes rough up back, depending on my mood. Like tile, you want as close to 100% coverage as you can get without having it ooze into grout lines.

Just say no to silicone caulk...

And by the way, don't forget slope to drain, which makes for a compound miter at junction of perpendicular pieces.
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Unread 10-15-2020, 07:09 AM   #3
EDDY IN MONTREAL
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Hello everyone,

Thank you Peter for your answer.

On top of the Kerdi membrane, would I use modified or unmodified thinset to set my quartz sill plate in place?
Also the underside of the quarts is pretty smooth. When you say to ruff it up, what do you mean by that and what would you use do to it?
The quartz is 1 1/4" thick. What would be the suggested trowel size to use?

Why not a silicone or a similar adhesive product?

Thanks
Eddy
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Unread 10-15-2020, 08:16 AM   #4
Carbidetooth
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Yes to modified thinset bonding curb topper to curb. Versabond probably being my most used.

I have a diamond disc for a 5" grinder that's like looks a miniature wet saw blade. I'll just skate it around on back a little, holding at slight angle, in a random pattern. This isn't precision work and just gives a little tooth for the mortar. If you spend more than a minute it's probably too much...really.

A 1/4"x1/4" trowel should work fine. I mask off tile edges because neatness counts and it saves me cleanup. In the photos I used tile spacers to make topper dead level and give me proper spacing off vertical tile. Figure this out before mortar. My curb top is sloped too.

FYI, your stone is 3 centimeters. Almost all stone and engineered stone are either 2cm or 3cm. It's just the standard of the industry.
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Last edited by Carbidetooth; 10-15-2020 at 09:03 AM.
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Unread 10-15-2020, 08:42 AM   #5
EDDY IN MONTREAL
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Hi Peter,

Great info and beautiful pictures. Thanks for the advice. I will be installing it next week. I feel more confident now. The only thing I didn't calculate when I ordered the sill plate is an expansion joint up against the tiled wall. Is that important. I was planning on butting it up against the tile. I noticed in your pictures an expansion joint.

Thanks
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Unread 10-15-2020, 08:49 AM   #6
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It's not really an expansion joint per se, but does allow for differential movement between dissimilar material and changes of plane. I treat it like any other change of plane and use 100% silicone caulk, color matched to grout.
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Last edited by Carbidetooth; 10-15-2020 at 09:17 AM.
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Unread 10-15-2020, 09:24 AM   #7
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I'd use white mortar for any natural stone. Gray can discolor it over time.

Also, while it's not necessary, you could cut a few grooves in the backside of that stone for the mortar to bite into. Just 1/16" or so would work. And make sure to flat-trowel the back of the stone before setting it in the troweled mortar.

I'll second the suggestion for sloping the threshold. I usually have it sloped at the initial stages of building, but if I need to adjust that either way, I do that with a little more/less mortar.

For what it's worth, the threshold is usually the very last piece I set, so I don't risk pushing it out of place after setting.
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Unread 10-15-2020, 09:28 AM   #8
EDDY IN MONTREAL
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Kevin and Peter THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
Very much appreciated.

Sincerely
Eddy )
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