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Unread 10-15-2011, 11:45 AM   #16
Rhadley
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The joist size on my sketch was not correct. Specs are: 11x 1.5" joists on 16" centers, 8 ft long. Unknown wood in decent condition. This is about 1495. (Before I was thinking it was a 2x12, but is only 11).

What would you think of using leveling compound?
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Unread 10-15-2011, 12:10 PM   #17
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You do understand we're not looking for the room size, Richard, but the longest unsupported span of the joists, yes?

You ain't got even a prayer (should you be thus inclined) of keeping a self-leveling product on the top of that floor.

Not to mention that the self-leveling product would wanna ............ self-level. From your previous descriptions I gathered that you couldn't really abide an actual leveling of the floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-15-2011, 12:44 PM   #18
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Yes, the wall top plate under the floor supports one side and the outside wall is on the other side.

I guess I'll get me a sander.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 12:18 PM   #19
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Durock/tile to sheet rock transition

How do I handle the transition from tile/Durock to sheet rock on the wall as I go away from the shower? I could:

1.Make the cement board end exactly where the tile will end and caulk between the tile/cement board edge and the sheetrock. This would eliminate any mudded joints.

2. I could run the tiles onto the sheetrock a small amount; 1/2 to 1".

3. Fill the joint area with mud (what kind), then tile to wherever it needs to go.

Here is a photo.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 02:57 PM   #20
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2- adding tape and float with thinset
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Unread 11-27-2011, 03:59 PM   #21
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Isn't that choice 3?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 04:12 PM   #22
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Well I meant to tile past the joint, which isn't expressed in #3 but could be an option. As long as the cbu / drywall joint is out of the wet area you'll be fine.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:04 PM   #23
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Richard, if that's the shower on the right side of the picture, where is your shower pan liner? It needs to go up the walls at least 3 inches above the curb and behind your CBU. Just thought I'd mention this before you get too far along.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:11 PM   #24
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The shower area is on the left. I have installed the plastic and some of the cement board. It is ready for the pan.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:28 PM   #25
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Okay, great. If you haven't yet, check out the thread in the liberry called "shower construction info". Lots of good reading there.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 03:07 PM   #26
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1st Mud Layer in

Finally layed the first layer of mud. I am not sure I got the right amount of water in it' seemed rather crumbly. Measured sand/portland by volume per liberry article here. Is confusing because elsewhere it is always referred to by weight.
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Unread 12-07-2011, 04:07 PM   #27
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Rhadley you were correct. A Lumber mill 2 x 12 is anywhere from 11 inches to 11 7/16. Pressure treated is sometimes up to 11 5/8.
Average size is 11 5/16 .
Except in some older homes or home made lumber 2x12 is sometimes 12 inches .


Kind of like the grocery store. The price goes up and the size becomes smaller.


Around here we have to use pressure treated for our exterior bands .

There are some lovely framing jobs where the framers don't notice or care about the different size heights of joists.
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Unread 12-08-2011, 05:28 AM   #28
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Concrete products are usually batched by weight, but doing it by volume gives acceptable results.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 01:18 PM   #29
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How do I correct this mud mix issue?

I mixed the mud for the first layer of shower floor as follows:
1. 50Lb bag of play sand + about 10LB of portland in wheel barrel
2. mixed thoroughly dry
3. Added water/mix/add water. (Are you supposed to slake 10 minutes)
4. Test by squeezing ball of it in hand

For the first batch, the mud held together but left a lot of particles and film on my hand. Too much water? Adding sand alone did not improve things, but adding portland seemed to.

For the 2nd batch, it held in a ball but was still dry and a bit crumbly. Not enough water?

Once it all dried, it was very loose and easily swept about.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 02:31 PM   #30
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Richard, go to the Liberry, find the Shower Construction section, in there find John Bridge's article on Deck Mud (second thread).

If you mixed your mud like that it's correct.

If you packed your mud correctly and allowed it to cure, it may have a little loose sand on top, but should be very solid and the surface will be hard.

You're not making concrete here. You don't want concrete for your application. You want deck mud and deck mud is not at all like concrete.

And your deck mud doesn't wanna dry, it wants to cure. Covering it with poly sheeting will be helpful. And when you finish making your floor make a couple mud balls from your material and set them aside. In a weak you'll find them to be good throwing stones. If you save them in a ZipLock baggie, they'll be even harder.
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