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Unread 10-29-2011, 05:34 PM   #46
glider90
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Alright, perhaps by tomorrow I may be laying the floor tile. Can anyone relay any experience with using the tile shape we have?

My first thought was to just start in the center and work out with full tiles until I had to start cutting, then make paper templates to determine the edge pieces.

After some thinking I have considered sawing tiles in half and starting along the longest wall and working across.
Anyone?

Attached is a pic with some tile laying on the floor and a full tile leaned up against the back wall. It is basically a hexagon, with the edge shape repeating every 60 degrees.

Little help please?
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Unread 10-29-2011, 07:24 PM   #47
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Same rules apply as every other install. Has to look good to you when done.

Lay it out each way you're considering, and pick the one that looks best. I'd probably start with a "tile" centered on the shower base, or some other focal point in the bathroom and see how that looks. In the other direction, maybe a full tile at the shower base.

I'd probably try to keep things balanced, and try to avoid a bunch of little pieces if possible. Honestly tough, I don't know if either of these is possible or even desired with those tiles....
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Unread 10-29-2011, 09:23 PM   #48
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Yeah, I don't think it's gonna look much different no matter how you lay it out. I think the worse thing you could do is to lay it out so you have a small piece that might break loose against the carpet, if it meets carpet.
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Unread 10-29-2011, 09:46 PM   #49
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Fast & easy method for small rooms .Map your room dimensions out , lay your tile on a larger floor, lay straight edges on the tile representing the shape of your floor , once you have your straight edge lines where the tile looks good to your eye, mark the whole perimeter at once .
If you don't have straight edges , straight 2x4s will work if you can find them. If there are any intricate cuts , cut those pieces slightly bigger and scribe them in with a compass when you are ready to install that section.
Have you ever seen a carpenter getting one measurement at a time on a dormer ? He spends more time measuring than he does installing .
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Unread 10-30-2011, 10:14 AM   #50
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I am going to do a variation on Robert's idea. I have straight edges, but I know nothing in that room is square, so the chances of me mapping it wrong seemed great. I have a large roll of old drafting mylar that is collecting dust. I used it to template the entire room. I now have a template of the exact room that I can lay over the tile. I know the spacing will move a bit, but since I will have baseboard trim around the room except for the shower edge and the carpet transition, I should be OK.

Next step is to layout tile with spacers in a larger room and overlay the template. That way I can follow all of the layout advise given. Thanks!

These tiles are 18" across in the largest dimension. I know I am going to want to check coverage after setting one, but should I be starting with a 1/2 x 1/2 trowel AND applying mud to the back of the tile as well?

Thanks.
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Unread 10-30-2011, 11:58 AM   #51
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I think the mapping idea will work fine in this small room. 1/2 inch notch is fine, skim coat the backs with the flat side of the trowel. Pull one up here and there to make sure you have good coverage on the back. If you place two tiles together face to face, you can see how flat they are. Usually big tiles like that are cupped a little.
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Unread 10-31-2011, 08:09 AM   #52
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Templating

So far so good on the template method. It allowed me to keep the pieces large in critical areas, and also to plan my air duct and closet flange cuts so they were not in the center of a tile.
I have ab out 1/3 of the tile installed, so far so good. Here are a couple pics of the template and tile cutting process. It took longer than I though (as has everything) but I think it will work out very well.
~Thanks
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Unread 10-31-2011, 08:37 AM   #53
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Nice job there, Jim. Translucent pattern material izza good idea. Wouldn't have thought of that. Maybe on accounta I ain't got no such material, but still......
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Unread 11-03-2011, 07:43 AM   #54
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Template method worked great.

Again thanks for the input. The template method worked great. I did the second half of the flloor last night and all of the tiles went in with gaps exactly as I wanted with no trimming.

The only thing that went a bit not to plan was that I kind of tiled myslelf into a corner. With the help of my wife mudding the tile backs I mixed almost twice my normal amount of mud. (25 pounds rather than 15.) Things went great, having a helper sped things greatly.

The problem came when I was near the door, I could no longer easily reach from dry floor to fresh tile to place spacers and clean off excess. Despite my best stretching I finally resorted to gingerly stepping on a couple tiles, always being sure to never move the tile laterally or put all 150 pounds of my weight on one tile. To minimize the amount of stepping I had to do, I let the final cleanup of the "gooshing" between the tile til this morning.

This morning (8 hours of cure time) the mud in the bucket was hard. I was able to *gingerly* go around and clean up all of the excess haze and stuff on the tiles. How long should I have waited in ideal situations before gingerly stepping on tile?

In short:
1) Is my floor going to fall apart from me putting some weight on the 18" tiles while setting them, or am I being overly concerned?
2) In an ideal world how long until you step carefully on fresh tile to cleanup?
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Unread 11-03-2011, 09:27 AM   #55
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1) if you put weight on the tile while the thinset was still workable, the tile would smoosh down. If it was, say 1 hour after you set the tile, you probably broke the thinset bond. After 8 hours, but before 24, you might have broke the thinset bond, but maybe not.

2) 24 hours. Clean as you go.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 10:43 AM   #56
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OK, sooo, uh, what to do at this point?
Hope for the best? Demo?
Assuming the bond has been compromised the end result will be loose tiles, cracked grout?
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Unread 11-03-2011, 10:48 AM   #57
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At this point I'd check to see if you've done any damage.

Yes, the unfavorable result will be loose tiles and cracked grout.

If you were very careful, you may be OK. Unfortunately, you may not know that until much later.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 10:52 AM   #58
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What is the best way to check for damage?
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Unread 11-03-2011, 11:01 AM   #59
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Tap on the tiles to detect a sound difference. Solidly bonded tile sound different than loose tiles. Remove and reset the obviously loose ones. Live with the rest for now. Put aside several sheets of your tile. If they become debonded or cracked, you'll have some to repair it.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 11:07 AM   #60
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Ok thanks. As it turns out the tiles come in boxes of nine, and I used only one tile from the fourth and final box, meaning I own the remaining eight...now for spares.

Hate to be overly inquisitive, but what is the preferred tapping tool? Tape knife handle, plastic hammer, knuckles, small section of 2X4 on end...?
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