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Unread 01-09-2021, 11:42 AM   #1
Tjdecker83
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New guy looking for some guidance

Hello all. New guy here from Jacksonville, Florida. My name is Travis and during the day I am in the Navy, but in my free time I like to pretend I know what I'm doing with most things DIY.

During my most recent deployment we had a family friend come in to redo our shower. He bailed before completion which left me to either finish or start over. With the quality of work already done, I decided to start from scratch. He put up all the tile except for 2 niches which were cut out after the tile was up. They weren't framed, no way to tape and thinset the joints. Maybe someone more experienced than me would have been able to make it work, who knows. During demo, I found zero water proofing and no pre slope. And screws through the top of the curb. So I am down to the studs ready to build back up.

Here's my questions:
I am planning to use a wondercap drain. My hang up is the drain is ABS, and my plumbing is PVC. I talked to a rep from the maker who said they have had zero failures and using PVC to ABS transition solvent will work fine since this isn't a pressure connection. Looking for your feedback.

Next is about waterproofing. I'll be using redgaurd and using a thickness gauge. But I am wondering if I should coat all the way to the bottom of the durock before the mud pan is installed or just coat what is exposed after the pan.

I have searched the forum extensively for these questions (plus many others) but did not find what I had hoped to find. Thanks for your help.
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Unread 01-09-2021, 01:13 PM   #2
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Welcome, Travis.

That's an interesting drain and one I've not seen nor heard of. Not quite sure what to think about it, but it does seem to fit the general description of a clamping drain as required for your apparent application.

Also first time I've seen any plumbing part made of white ABS material.

As for bonding the ABS to your PVC plumbing, that's something that'll need to be taken up with your local code compliance people. It's not generally an accepted practice anywhere on the interior of a residential structure. To the best of my knowledge the only place you can bond those dissimilar pipe materials is one time at the first drain connection outside the dwelling.

I think it would likely work OK in your intended application, but I'd wanna clear that with the jurisdiction before I committed to it.

As for the RedGard on the walls, do we assume you are using RedGard as the receptor liner, too, or are you planning a PVC liner and RedGard only for the walls?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-09-2021, 03:08 PM   #3
Lazarus
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The "Transitional Adhesive" going from pvc to abs has been around for quite some time. I have used it numerous times and, since this is not a pressure fitting, my experience tells me that you should be OK.......
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Unread 01-09-2021, 03:11 PM   #4
Tjdecker83
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I will be doing a PVC liner, just not sure how far down to bring the redgard. Or, if there is any benefit of covering the entire board, to include the bottom edge. My thinking is this would direct any water to the liner and prevent any wicking up the board where it meets the liner.
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Unread 01-09-2021, 07:30 PM   #5
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I would coat the entire face of the CBU, but not the bottom edge in that application.
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Unread 01-10-2021, 08:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laz
I have used it numerous times and, since this is not a pressure fitting, my experience tells me that you should be OK.......
My experience tells me the same. I have just such a connection and it has been leak free for 10 years.

Nevertheless, it certainly wouldn't hurt to find out if code in your area allows for a ABS to PVC glued joint, then at least you can make an informed decision.
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Unread 01-15-2021, 10:30 PM   #7
Tjdecker83
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Thank you all for the replies
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Unread 02-01-2021, 10:05 PM   #8
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I have another one for the group. In a bathroom there are obviously areas where CDU and drywall meet. Looking for input on what's common here. My shower and the walls for the dry part of the bathroom are straight in line with each other, not on a corner. My question is about the way my drywall guy wants to do the install. He wants to bring the drywall over the curb by about 3/4", and have it meet the Durock on top of the curb. This seems like a not great idea.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 10:13 PM   #9
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It is not a good idea. A good idea is to have the CBU, and the waterproofing, extend beyond the face of the curb at least three inches and down to the floor as a "tub leg."

No reason at all he can't do that. But in no case should the waterproofing and tile stop before the front face of the curb.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 10:39 PM   #10
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I think his thought was to waterproof the drywall too.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 10:46 PM   #11
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Your drywall guy is involved in the waterproofing of your shower, Travis? Now that really doesn't sound like a good idea at all.

How do you intend to close the opening of the shower during use?
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Unread 02-02-2021, 08:11 AM   #12
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My guess is he wants to bring the DW edge 3/4" over the curb because that's where a wall stud just so happens to be, which gives him something to fasten the DW and CBU to. Given the frequency of failures at shower curbs when the assembly is not water proofed correctly it seems DW there would be flirting with disaster. Not that he will care, mind you, because the failure won't show up immediately.

If the whole enclosure was being water proofed with a sheet membrane, including over the curb, properly installed, DW is fine.

Two bits caught my eye, Travis:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis
I will be doing a PVC liner.. (and) ...Durock on top of the curb
I assume your PVC liner is folded over the top of the curb, but how was the Durock on top of the curb attached?
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Unread 02-02-2021, 09:10 AM   #13
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why are you using an odd drain like that:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wonderca...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Why not a more known tried and true. I know Oateys are very known, but I think they look so cheap.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sioux-Chief...ain/1000164329
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Ch...-Ring-Strainer

These are much more solid with a cast grate, not flimsy sheet metal like Oateys.
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Unread 02-02-2021, 10:18 AM   #14
Tjdecker83
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The drywall guy is not installing the durock. I will be doing the install, but you are correct he is trying to end on a stud and that would put the drywall overlapping the curb. As for the durock on the curb, I am referring to the vertical boards that overlap the the edges. The curb itself will be a traditional cement based curb. Sounds like I need to have him end the drywall a few inches short of the curb and I can bring the durock out to meet it. I will be using a shower curtain on this install.

As for the drain, the reviews I was able to find looked good. I also like that it's a little thicker than the clamp style so my preslope won't be paper thin at the drain.
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Unread 02-02-2021, 10:54 AM   #15
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Not familiar with that drain, but I'm a bit skeptical of their "clamping" action with apparently no actual clamping ring with mechanical fasteners. Maybe if I actually saw one I'd better understand.

The thickness of your pre-slope at the drain need not be dictated by the thickness of the drain's outer edge, and that drain purports to be only 1/2" thick, so you'd want it set higher than flat on the subfloor, anyway. Not sure I follow your reasoning there, 'specially at the price of that drain.

Using a shower curtain, as I thought you might be planning, makes it even more important that your wall waterproofing extend beyond the front of the curb. And I'd still recommend you turn those walls in at the curb a few inches, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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