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Unread 03-27-2022, 06:59 PM   #271
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Very familiar with the concept and the method, Dan. I would consider it a good idea to do with your CBU as well if you're able. 'Specially there where you don't even have a header in your "framing."

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-27-2022, 07:45 PM   #272
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roger that. One more pls,

The alkali resistant tape comes with a sticky back that allow you to affix it to the CBU before thin-setting. While convenient, I realized maybe it is better to embed it into thinset as oppose to pre-taping.

Make no difference or better to ignore the sticky back and embed into thinset?

Thx in advance
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Unread 03-28-2022, 06:24 AM   #273
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I don't think it'll matter at all, Dan. For the few times I've used it, on CBU and Hardie, I've always stuck the tape on and then mortared it.
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Unread 04-29-2022, 09:19 PM   #274
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Hi,

Here is my proposed shower bench (i.e. the one the Mrs. likes the most).
Ideally she would have liked it to extend past the glass on the left, but as we discussed sometime back, its not worth the more complex glass install and moisture migration.
She would have really liked a floating bench but I don't think it is a good idea with 6 mil poly and without being able to have it extend between two opposite walls.

- Pls ignore the leftover liners that are protecting the actual liner. Pls also ignore the small errant piece of wood by the curb. I had a laser on it and forgot to remove it for the pic.
- I am planning to use a 8 x 16 x 8 blocks with 4 x 16 x 8 blocks and some pavers. I am missing a block on top but hopefully you get the idea...
- The pink string from the drain represent a plane change.
- The laser on the left is where the glass will be installed. There will be a few inches between the glass and the bench enough to fit a hand in there and clean. As a reminder, the glass is fully within the wet area and fully over the liner.
- On the left hand side of the bench I'll put a slightly more aggressive pitch to help get the water out of there.

My question is a stylistic one (your favorite!):

1. If this was your project, would your preference be to make the plane change in front of the bench (as pictured) so that the floor at the bench is level

Or

"hide" the plane change within the bench by pushing the plane change to the corner for a more streamlined look. I put "hide" in quotation marks since obviously there will be no plane change within the bench. The final slope will stop at the bench and there will be a tiny tiny final slope to the left of the bench.

Thx!
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Unread 04-30-2022, 07:39 AM   #275
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C. Install a floating corner bench, thus avoiding ALL the challenges above.

IMO, natch.
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Unread 04-30-2022, 07:57 AM   #276
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The wife would love that, but can you do it when:
1. The waterproofing method is 6mil poly

AND

2. You have two perpendicular shower walls as oppose to walls on opposite sides that can support the bench from both ends?

EDIT:. I can see how you can do it with a smaller traingular bench like the goof proof one. Would you be able to do a 4' floating bench without opposing walls?

Thx!
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Last edited by arnav; 04-30-2022 at 08:02 AM.
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Unread 04-30-2022, 08:35 AM   #277
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Given where you are with your project, Dan, a floating bench along that wall would be a challenge. Is why I suggested the corner bench.

I'm not familiar with the Goof Proof bench, but I did install two of the Better Bench floating corner benches. They come in 2 sizes, I used the smaller of the two, but the larger one is pretty large. Install the stainless steel frame, fill it with deck mud. Use a water proof membrane band, like Kerdi, to seal it to the walls. Works great.

Just a suggestion.
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Unread 04-30-2022, 10:01 AM   #278
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Thank you very much for the recommendation. I love it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Given where you are with your project, Dan, a floating bench along that wall would be a challenge
So if the "better benches" are in play with 6mil poly, can I not use the Better Bench rectuangualr adjustable bench? https://www.innoviscorp.com/adjustable-bench/
It will be anchored to the robust 5/4" furring strips (which even by CX's standards were way over built ).
It will be anchored to 3 furring strips on the back wall, and 2 furring strips on the right hand side wall. Of course the option of tapcons straight to the cinderblocks is there as well.

What do you think? Can I get away with the rectuangualr adjustable one?

EDIT: Seems like it is supported by the mfr (bolded ones are the options relevant to my project):

Quote:
Originally Posted by https://www.innoviscorp.com/adjustable-bench
TO DETERMINE SUPPORT REQUIREMENT FOR ADJR :

Mounting wall to wall up to 36?: No additional support required
Mounting wall to wall up to 63?: One(1) BT-17S centered in span OR Two(2) Invisabolt supports
Mounting on a back wall and one side wall up to 36?: One(1) BT-17S within 6? of open-end OR 2 Invisabolt supports
Mounting on a back wall and one side wall up to 63?: Three(3) Invisabolt supports required
Mounting with no side support up to 36?: Two(2) Invisabolt supports required
Mounting with no side support up to 48?: Three(3) Invisabolt supports required
Mounting with no side support up to 63? max span: Four(4) Invisabolt supports required
Many thanks for the help
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Last edited by arnav; 04-30-2022 at 10:38 AM.
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Unread 05-01-2022, 08:17 AM   #279
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I think you'd have to use the BT-17S support at the one end, Dan, and it would have to be positioned over one of the furring strips.
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Unread 05-04-2022, 03:52 PM   #280
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Quick update (especially if it helps any googlers in the future)

So the Mrs. didn't like the triangular benches .

She also didn't like the look of the BT-17S support at one end.

I called Innovis to discuss installation into cinderblocks since there wasn't any info on the website.

- The Invisabolts sticks out past the bench ~3". In a regular framed wall where Invisabolt are required, you therefore use two stacked 2 x 4s as blocking.

- Cinderblocks are hollow so the Invisabolt doesn't have enough to bite into.

- They said that to use the Invisabolt with cinderblocks you need fill in the blocks with 2' of cement below and above where you drill a hole for them.

So just like you said Dan, a bit too late for that. I am trying to think had I known about it in advance would I have still opted to use it, and I can only assume that I wouldn't. Having to make openings the blocks just to fill them out with cement seems far from ideal.

So it is back to a traditional bench, which is always what I told the Mrs. I am planning to do. I'll build it, post pics, and then it will be easier to contemplate which slopes plane change is more appealing to the eye.

Thx!
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Unread 06-10-2022, 05:06 PM   #281
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Hi,

I hope everyone is well.

I can use your advise about plane changes and layout for the final mud bed.
The questions and three options pertain to the size of the small triangle to the north.

Option 1 - pic 1: The plane change is ahead of the shower corner
Pros: The mud bed is level at the perimeter / bench
Cons:
1. High pitch between the bench and drain (3/4" height difference over a 8" distance from the bench to the drain.
2. A tile will need to be cut at a sharp angle on the left side of the bench

Even though 3/4" is over the maximum 1/2" drop over 1 foot, I think it is accepted that over shorter distances the pitch is higher?

Option 2 - pic 2: line of plane change from drain corner to shower corner
Pros: The triangle is smaller so the pitch between the bench and the drain is within the normal 1/4" to 1/2" drop every foot.
Cons: Weird to look at? half way to the bench the tiles will slope down, but then transition to level as the triangle start

Option 3 - pic 3: variable slope at the bench
Pros: The pitch between the bench and the drain is within the normal 1/4" to 1/2" drop every foot.
Cons:
1. Harder but obviously not impossible to do. Not as appealing to the eye?

If this was your project what would you choose? The Mrs. doesn't care either way.

I know for these reasons we like to center the drain, but I really don't like standing on the drain itself when showering so this was a conscious decision. Plus, it ruins a little IMO the look of the linear drain.

To keep it simple, if you think the 3/4" drop over the 8" by the drain is acceptable, i would probably opt for option 1.

Thx!
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Unread 06-10-2022, 07:39 PM   #282
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I'm confused, Dan. That decision should already have been made when creating the pre-slope before you installed the waterproof liner. You don't have a pre-slope under the liner?
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Unread 06-10-2022, 07:51 PM   #283
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Of course I did! But the preslope is pitched to the regualr clamping drain whereas the final slope I want to pitch to the shape of the linear drain. I know normally the final slope merely follows the contour of the pre-slope. This was a conscious decision on my part. The shower is 4'x6'. If I hadn't done it like I did, you would have a clamping drain in a middle of a 6' run without a pitch to it.
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Unread 06-10-2022, 08:23 PM   #284
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OK, OK, I was just askin'.

Just from the photos I couldn't really give you a preference. Something I'd just hafta feel out while doing it. I know that's not helpful, but it's all I got. Just make alla water go into the drain. Good advice, non?
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Unread 06-10-2022, 09:17 PM   #285
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haha, all good. You were just testing me...

Fair enough.

To ask differently, a 3/4" drop over the 8" distance between the bench and the drain is allowed right?
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