Master Bath Renovation

[arnav]

ok, I understand the determining factor (i.e. whether there is enough to fasten or not)

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

Can you glue and screw some cleats to the side of that ledger, Dan?

Yes, I can also sister two 2 x 3 and screw through both straight to the wall with long tapcons.

I am I correct that this is the order of preference then?:

1. One sheet, spilt the gap, good to go if there is enough to fasten
2. Cleats or sister the joist
3. Rip the sheet and use two separate ply pieces

I thought #3 would be is better than #2 but I am ok either way. Just trying to learn the SOP

Thx!

[ss3964spd]

I'd go with #1 or #2, Dan. If you did #3 then you'd need blocking at the seam.

If you added cleats/sisters I don't think you'd need to tapcon them into the block wall. Some wood screws and 2.5" general construction screws will be plenty since the ledger is already securely fastened to the wall.

Of course, if you could just shift that sheet over a 1/4" ish that would be easiest.

[arnav]

1. Does my shower drain need to be 2" lower than the finished threshold?
I originally asked about it here and you replied back that it doesn't apply to me here but then I came across your post here suggesting it is required? Apologies to revisit but I wanted to double confirm now that you better understand what I am doing. I suspect that 2" are required, and what I have asked before (and therefore answer) is related to another requirement...

2. If the 2" are required (ignore if otherwise pls): I did some measuring and I anticipate the drain to be 1.5" below the finished threshold. Do you like better:
A. raise the platform and curb with 1/2" ply OR
B. use 2 layers of CBU?

I already have 1.5" of flooring material for the tub's platform so I am inclined to go with B?

3. I plan to use left over 3/4" BC ply as the blocking material for the liner below the furring strips (see pic). I am assuming the orientation of the ply's grain in this case is not important right?

Have a great weekend...

[cx]

1. Please don't mistake this as humor:

If your shower has a curb, the top of the drain must be at least two inches below the top of the curb.

If your shower has no curb, there is no height above drain requirement at all.

I am not making that up, that's what the people who write the plumbing code say and I know of no recent change.

2. See #1.

3. I would think not since I presume you'll just be gluing it to the block wall.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[arnav]

Ok, so then my question is (as odd as it may sound), do I have a curb? My shower is depressed within a platform in which case i think the platform acts as a curb. That is, a curb is not defined only as a raised surface damming water but also a depressed surface damming water. Only a true ADA type shower (which mine is not given the platform) would be considered to not having a curb. Did I get it right?

Originally Posted by CX

3. I would think not since I presume you'll just be gluing it to the block wall.

And tapcons as well for a good measure...

[cx]

Some years ago while I attended a national technical committee meeting, NTCA,s Methods and Standards, that subject came up and one of the members stated the requirement just as I gave it to you and asked if that was for real. No one could dispute it, so it was decided by said committee that a couple members would research it with the relevant people in the committee (I think it has a name, but I disremenber it) that makes up the plumbing code. And they did.

It was reported back that plumbing code people understood it to be exactly that way and apparently so no reason to question it. And no, nothing was said about the Accessibility part of the code compliance.

I keep hoping to hear through the ol' grapevine that someone has at least finally come up with some rationale for the situation, but I have not. If anyone out there knows of any change to that requirement, or lack thereof, please do correct me. I think about those meetings every time this question comes up.

1. From your drawing, no, you do not have a curb.

2. I wouldn't waste my Tapcons on that, but you certainly can if you want. I think a couple dollops of construction adhesive on the back of each piece would be more than adequate to support the liner.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[arnav]

Great news! I'd like to keep the platform as low as possible. The background is interesting. Florida is IPC anyway which means anything goes...

I just remembered why the tapcons. I put tar paper behind each non-PT lumber that touches the cinderblocks. I don't think it would work to glue the tar paper and then glue the lumber to the paper...

[arnav]

A few pedant questions:

1. Do you like better to sister a 2x3 on the right hand side by the wall or on the left? Originally i thought on the right since the wall provide a strong anchoring option but now I am thinking to beef the 2x3 on the left which will make it more beam like.
Dealer's choice?

2. Similarly is it ok to sister within the joists (see second pic with some left over 2x3 not cut to size yet) or is it better to sister the whole length and make the joists themselves shorter?

I am interested in the basics of framing in case i ever decide to build a cabin somewhere

Thanks for the help

[cx]

We are talking about just additional nailers here, Dan? If so, what I see in the second photo would be sufficient. Discriminating on the basis of east or west end of the joist bay would seem overly political to me. And keep in mind that you're still framing, the trim work comes later.

You're well outside the realm of common structural framing at this point. I think your cabin will do fine except perhaps for the matter of actually completing it, eh?

My opinion; worth price charged.

[arnav]

LOL, Nailed it. You win the internet today!

[arnav]

You know how the shower pan liner is required to be a minimum of 6 inches up the walls or 3 inches above the curb, whichever is higher?

Is the 6 inches measured from the shower's ply floor or where the liner meet the wall?
The latter will result is a higher liner since the height of the pre-slope by the wall is added as well...

Thx!

[ss3964spd]

Is measured from the deck mud upon which the liner is laid, Dan.

Remember to notch the studs/furring to accept the thickness of the liner so that your wall panels don't bow out at the bottom.

[arnav]

Opps. I made a mistake then.. At least it is easy to rectify.

The blocking box that you nail the liner to doesn't need to be higher than the liner right? e.g. both the blocking box and liner at 8" up the wall and the liner nailed at 7.5".
blocking box = the wooden support that is added between the studs that the liner is nailed to.

I am planning to leave 1/2" gap between the blocking box and the floor.

Thx!

[arnav]

A few posts to catch up the thread and a question at the very end.

Up first is the final joists structure for the shower.
I know... I know... It is way over built as usual. However, between returning to HD a $4 piece of wood or installing it, i rather install it...

Also included is the final rough-in for the free standing tub filler. D

[arnav]

Final shower floor and blocking box for the liner.
The first ply layer is not shown (i forgot to take a pic) but you have seen it dry fitted already anyway (made from continues sheets). All the wood in all the pics have been treated for termites twice. Hopefully it will help given the huge mass of wood I have installed overall.
I added some foam by the shower drain to stop the mud from falling through.