So while you semi-remember what I am doing does this plan make sense and up to code?
I think it is? I do need to update the diagram to show the liner below the CBU on the left as oppose to above.
Originally Davy thought I can do something like this (and he was kind enough to draw a diagram for me): https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...1&postcount=68
However, I realized i don't have enough height for it. Do you see an issue in not having a mud curb like in Davy's drawing and placing the glass directly on the slope?
Please see the attached. The finished threshold will be 1.5" above the drain.
Many thx!
__________________ Dan
Much like this project, my posts are still under construction
I don't know how you're going to be able to fasten that little "lip" of liner on the left to the top of the CBU. And since the liner is kind of thick (compared to a sheet membrane, it will create a bump, and of course thinset mortar isn't going to stick to it. You might consider doing this with a single slope mud bed and using a sheet membrane for the water proofing, along with a compatible drain assembly.
Setting the glass on the slope might be a challenge for either the clips or the channel the glass will be in. The glass will be perfectly plumb but the clips/channel will be tilted.
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Dan
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If I recall correctly my memory is excellent, but my ability to access it is intermittent.
I don't know how you're going to be able to fasten that little "lip" of liner on the left to the top of the CBU. And since the liner is kind of thick (compared to a sheet membrane, it will create a bump, and of course thinset mortar isn't going to stick to it.
Yeah, that was a small oversight in the diagram. The intention is to put it between the ply and the CBU not over the CBU. The ply can be notched a little to account for the liner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Setting the glass on the slope might be a challenge for either the clips or the channel the glass will be in. The glass will be perfectly plumb but the clips/channel will be tilted.
So what slope should I aim for? I learned from this forum that all surfaces should be pitched towards the drain. Just create a bit of a shallower slope for the first two/three inches by the glass as if it was a curb that is pitched towards the drain?
Thx for the help
__________________ Dan
Much like this project, my posts are still under construction
As promised, the next few posts are to catch up the thread onto the latest progress (and a few questions at the very end). Apologies for spamming my own thread, but I haven't posted the progress in a while.
First up is the rough-in for the tub (delta R4700-FL).
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The shower valve (Delta R10000-UNBX). I had to use a few more elbows than I really wanted to since the valve had to be deeper than the face of the cinder-blocks wall when taking the thickness of the tiled wall into consideration.
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Much like this project, my posts are still under construction
The final shower drain. I put up CBU temporarily and did two tiling tests with a helper with the actual huge 2' x 4' tiles so I can get the linear drain exactly flush with the final tiled wall and ensure proper coverage.
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2 x 6 joists for the tub's platform. The joists are perpendicular to the joists underneath the sub-floor (two layers of 3/4" BC ply).
As a reminder, the 2 x 6 joists while adding their own structural strength, are merely resting on top of the sub-floor which as described here is way overbuilt: https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...=117386&page=9
This is why I am assuming it is ok to notch them as much as I did. They are not suspended per se.
Not showing: A stringer and the plate for the tub rough in (waiting to be termite treated before it goes in).
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Raised tub's platform subfloor layer 1 (3/4" BC Ply).
Dry fitted only. Waiting to be termite treated, plus i realized I forgot to order the tub's free standing drain..
Not showing: nail plates above the copper pipes on the left. The intention is to put the nail plates between the two sub-floor layers. I still need to see how much thickness the nail plates actually add and if it worth sending down the ply to account for it.
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So now for the interesting / question part. You know the shower drain pipe you saw above? It is 4" high above the sub-floor. I want to avoid having to create a 5" high pre-slope mud bed. It is whole lot of concrete to bring up 3 floors up...
I am thinking to create a 3rd (and hopefully) final structure so that the mud bed for the pre-slope start higher. Attached are dry-fitted pics of what I am planning to do.
Note, only one sub-floor layer is shown.
The structure consists of:
- 2 x 3 "joists" parallel to the sub-floor joists below
- 2 "subfloor" layers of 3/4" BC Ply
This will allow the pre-slope to start right above shower drain pipe.
It is actually two separate structures (separated by the pipe). I am thinking to fill the space around the pipe with the pre-slope mud. The pre-slope itself will be 1" at the drain. Similar to the tub's raised platform, this structure is also merely resting on the over-built sub-floor.
Do you see any issues with plan / structure?
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Much like this project, my posts are still under construction
If the 3rd structure makes sense, then my questions are:
1. You may have noticed in the pics above that the "subfloor" is ~ 1" short for the required area. The required width is 49.5" and the width of a sheet is obviously 48". If I want to have the ply grain parallel to the 2x3 joists I can't orient it length wise. I am assuming that in this case I should just use two separate ply sheets to achieve the required width.
If so, make one piece 18" for example and the other 31.5"?
Then do the same for the second subfloor layer only switch the sides where the 18" piece go and the 31.5" go? I am staring at the two pieces of ply but wasn't sure where to rip them.
2. How do you prevent the mud from falling through the 1/2" gap around the drain? low expending window foam? A rug?
Thanks for the help!
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Much like this project, my posts are still under construction
1. As usual, I'm confused. It appears that you've already installed a first layer of subflooring with the plywood oriented in the correct direction. This is not the actual subfloor?
In any case, you must lay all structural plywood layers with the strength axis (the face grain) perpendicular to the joists, not parallel.
Why have you left out the subfloor across the entire length of the drain line?
2. Not seeing any place with a half-inch gap around a drain pipe, but when mudding around such you would normally have your moisture barrier and expanded metal lath under there and it wouldn't really be a problem. But if you wanna fill that gap with something, there's no reason you should not.
