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Unread 11-12-2021, 01:14 PM   #151
arnav
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gozo
The secret in cases like this is to preassemble and solder the bends and elbows, and then slide them in place and then sweat the rest of connections and risers in while they’re away from the meltable PVC.
Yeah, exactly what I was planning to do. Dry fit it in-situ but sweat it off the wall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
The supplies come in from the left side, correct?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Are those 3/4" copper?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
You need to supply the two sinks and the shower, correct?
Yes + bathtub. I was planning to terminate the 3/4" at the 2nd sink and continue with 1/2" copper for the tub and shower. It is likely that the two sinks would be used in parallel but not sink+shower+tub. Would be nice to have 3/4" to tub for greater flow but the Delta tub valve is 1/2" anyway so I don't think there is a point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Is there no way to run a vent for the two sinks straight up, thus avoiding the use of the AAV's?
Those two sinks are the bane of my existence.
The original thinking was:
- Vents are best to vent to the roof, but getting permission from the HOA to do so would be a major pain, would take forever, and be costly.
- I could put the AAV in the attic, but from a maintenance perspective it is probably not ideal. Plus the hot temperature there can probably shorten the AAV's life.
- Also, running the vent up would require making notches in the ledger board for the floating vanity. Not an issue but I didn't want it to become "swiss cheese."
- So I decided to put two AAVs in the cabinet instead.

However, with the AAV inside, coupled with the vanity drawers that you saw, the p-trap has to be turned back on-itself, so there is very little adjustment. The pipes have to be spot on to within 1/8" (whereas non-freestanding vanities you get so much leeway). To make matters worst, I don't have the sink yet (stuck in China) so I am going off specs and measurement in the store.

Hopefully I got it. Coupled with Dan's/ss3964spd suggestion to enlarge the hole in the drawer as necessary, I hope I will be ok. If not, I'll concede defeat and draw the vent upwards.
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Unread 11-12-2021, 03:34 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
Yeah, exactly what I was planning to do. Dry fit it in-situ but sweat it off the wall.
Not un-doable, of course, but still doing to be a challenge keeping it all aligned while you sweat the joints.

Re the vent; Since there's already at least one vent going through the roof I was wondering if you could tie into it up in the attic, if it's close enough.

So not a plumber, but I think you'd want to run the 3/4" all the way over to the first fixture after the 2nd sink then reduce it to 1/2" after that.
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Unread 11-12-2021, 03:42 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
Re the vent; Since there's already at least one vent going through the roof I was wondering if you could tie into it up in the attic, if it's close enough.
Yeah, I considered that as well but the main vent stack is 30ft away next to the 3 other bathrooms. That is, the townhome has 4 bathrooms. 1 on each floor vertically right above the one below it so they all vent into the main stack. The master bath I am working on now, is on the opposite end...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
So not a plumber, but I think you'd want to run the 3/4" all the way over to the first fixture after the 2nd sink then reduce it to 1/2" after that.
You mean that if the supply order is Lav1 -> Lav2 -> Tub -> Shower, keep the 3/4" going until the tub? If so, will do. It will need to be reduced to 1/2" either way though at the Delta valve itself since it only accepts 1/2".
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Unread 11-13-2021, 08:43 AM   #154
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Correct, 3/4" all the way to the tub, tee-ing off the 3/4" with 1/2" for each fixture.
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Unread 11-13-2021, 10:31 AM   #155
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Thx, will do.

Here is another option that allows the two copper pipes to continue straight. I will have two subfloor layers, 3/4" each (yeah, thick). Can I notch the first subfloor layer a little and then bring the pipe down after an inch or two with an elbow (see pic 1)? I will have to put a nail plate on top to protect it from CBU and floor nails.

If its better not to mess with the subfloor, here is another option that brings the pipes lower before the platform (pls see pic #2).

Maybe the second one is easier and requite less futzing around
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Unread 11-13-2021, 10:51 AM   #156
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Probably goes without saying, but the only way I can see to pull of the config in the 2nd photo is by notching the furring.
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Unread 11-13-2021, 10:55 AM   #157
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yes, absolutely. Any votes for one or the other? The first one is easier copper wise (less sweating) but you have to notch or cut the 1st subfloor layer. So maybe the 2nd one? I don't mind sweating a few more fittings...
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Unread 11-13-2021, 11:15 AM   #158
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I can't see why option 1 wouldn't work, Dan. I don't know how much copper expands and contracts but if that top pipe is the hot supply I'd want it to float in the opening.
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Unread 12-06-2021, 06:12 PM   #159
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Hi,

I hope everyone is well.

- So this is the 3rd and final structure i need to build before adding the pre-slope, liner, etc'.
- As you may recall to avoid a huge drop from the raised 2 x 6 Platform plus the curb, I am looking to embed the shower within the 2 x 6 Platform (curbless like - only that the platform is actually a curb).
- The space has a sloped 2" pipe for the shower drain plus 2 copper pipes for the shower supply valve.
- The height of the sloped 2" pipe of the subfloor is 4".
- I want to avoid the preslope be 4" unnecessarily deep while accounting for the 4" pipe.
- I am thinking to create an additional structure / "sub-floor" to the height of the 4" pipe.
- I have limited height to create the slopes in: 2 x 6" + 0.75" (subfloor layer 1) + 0.75" (subfloor layer 2) + 0.5" (CBU)
- As such, I don't want to fully hide the pipe within the structure. I am thinking to create two separate structures while leaving the pipe exposed. Then fill the gap with the pre-slope mud.

Does that make sense? Please see the attached pics as they may help clarify...
The joists are just some 2x4s i had laying around. Not cut to size.

If that make sense so far, my questions are:
1. Does this extra sub-floor need to have two layers of ply or a single 3/4" BC ply will do? What if I add a LOT of joists?
2. If two, and since these joists merely rest on the way over built actual sub-floor I am assuming I can simply use 2x3s to achieve the desired height beneath the ply?

Thanks for the help!
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Unread 12-10-2021, 09:19 AM   #160
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Bump. Does that make sense? i.e. create two separate raised platforms on both sides of the shower's drain pipe to avoid making a very deep pre-slope? Then bury the pipe between the two joists with the pre-slope mud.

many thx for the help
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Unread 12-10-2021, 10:14 AM   #161
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Dan, I'm afraid I've lost the handle on this project a few pages back. My first question, from your current photos, would be the location of your trap and vent for this shower drain.

What style of drain are you now placing there near the wall?

If your question is simply whether you can fill that gap around the drain pipe with deck mud, the answer would be yes. You'll want to pack it very firmly, which will be a bit difficult under the pipe, but doable.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-10-2021, 10:46 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
My first question, from your current photos, would be the location of your trap and vent for this shower drain.
The p-trap it at the end of the pictured pipe. I haven't cut the sub-floor for it yet since I still need to do a tile coverage test to determine the thinset thickness (which will then determine the final distance of the linear drain from the wall).
Both the tub and shower are wet vented from the Lav (which is why you can't see one in the pic). AAV -> lav -> tub -> shower -> main drainage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
What style of drain are you now placing there near the wall?
Oatey designline 40" Brushed Stainless Steel Linear Drain DLS2400
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-De...2400/303208226

Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
If your question is simply whether you can fill that gap around the drain pipe with deck mud, the answer would be yes. You'll want to pack it very firmly, which will be a bit difficult under the pipe, but doable.
Thx! That is what I was after. With that, I'll go ahead and buy the lumber, and do a dry-fitted mockup which will make the whole thing a lot clearer.
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Unread 12-10-2021, 10:48 AM   #163
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Also, I am trying to interpret this section of the IPC:

Quote:
Originally Posted by IPC FL Code
Exceptions:

Floor surfaces under shower heads provided for rinsing laid directly on the ground are not required to comply with this section. Where a sheet-applied, load-bearing, bonded, waterproof membrane is installed as the shower lining, the membrane shall not be required to be recessed. Shower compartments where the finished shower drain is depressed a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm) below the surrounding finished floor on the first floor level and the shower recess is poured integrally with the adjoining floor
1. Does that mean the shower must be depressed 2"? I am assuming not, and that it is only an exception clause for the regulations above it. The reason I ask is because right now my plan puts the drain only 1.5" below the tiled threshold. I can change that by lowering the platform discussed in the post above and have the PVC pipe protrude a bit into the pre-slope. i.e. the prelsope will be 1" everywhere but where the pipe is, it will only be 1/2".

2. Originally Davy thought I can do something like this (and he was kind enough to draw a diagram for me): https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...1&postcount=68
However, I realized i don't have enough height for it. Do you see an issue in not having a mud curb like in Davy's drawing and placing the glass directly on the slope?
Please see the attached
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Unread 12-10-2021, 12:04 PM   #164
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That code section has nothing at all to do with your application, Dan. It's saying that if the shower footprint in your concrete SOG subfloor is depressed a minimum of two inches, the waterproofing membrane is not required. Still used mostly in Florida, best we can tell from over here, it's still legal, I do believe, in other jurisdictions as well.

Seems a pretty long wet-vent for the shower.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-10-2021, 12:17 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Seems a pretty long wet-vent for the shower.
I think it ok since it is less than 8' arm. Please see the attached pic of the dry fitted layout (not shown: pipe's slope). That should clarify. The pipe entering from the left hand side is coming from Lav 2 and the AAV.

Ok, so does that plan looks ok? i.e.
1. The 1.5" finished threshold height above the drain.
2. Placing the glass directly over the pre-slope without an additional mud curb.

I guess it is effectively a curbless construction (with a traditional liner) at the top of the slope. By the drain, the 2x6s form an actual curb.

EDIT: actually the liner should be between the ply and CBU in my case right? Not above the floor's CBU.

Thx for the help!
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Last edited by arnav; 12-10-2021 at 12:22 PM.
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