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Unread 05-15-2022, 11:13 AM   #16
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
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1&3: grout. Some might argue this over #1
2: I would use painter's caulk but you could use acrylic color matching caulk too.

Then 100% color matching silicone around where it sits on the countertop and the two inside corners.
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Unread 05-15-2022, 11:14 AM   #17
cx
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Robert, the tile industry standards call for a flexible sealant in the tile surface any place the backing material makes a change in plane and between tile and dissimilar material.

How you treat yours is, of course, up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-15-2022, 07:42 PM   #18
jadnashua
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Grout, especially unsanded which is weaker, will likely crack on those changes of plane. Whether you care or not, and with small joints you might not notice, is up to you.

Bullnosed tile tend to be lots more expensive than the field tile, and while some object to the cost of specially designed profiles for the edges and corners, the use of a profile there would eliminate the need for caulk and solve the potential cracking issue of grout.
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Unread 05-15-2022, 09:05 PM   #19
MesaTileworks
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If it were mine I’d grout the bullnose edge that’s not a plane change and caulk all the changes of plane, including where the tile meets the cornerbead, the outside corner bullnose, the back vertical corners, and the places where the tile meets the sink base and countertop.

I’ve seen countless installs where’s someone grouted a plane change instead of caulking, and the resulting crack is an invitation to mold and water damage. Just my two ¢…
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