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Unread 03-24-2010, 06:48 PM   #1
Lou_MA
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correct fasteners for better bench

hi

i installed a better bench in my last bathroom project. it came out good, so i decided to install another one in a second shower.

the problem is that i used the hollow wall anchors, and i ended up stripping 5 out of the 6 anchors (the screw just spins around). i tried all the local hardware and big box stores to find similar plastic toggle anchors, but no one carries ones long enough to handle the 1" total thickness of drywall and tile.

could i use toggle bolts? i'm stuck with the 3/8" hole i drilled for the original anchors, which means it could only accept a 1/8" toggle screw, which seems kind of weak. the other alternative would be molly bolts.

thoughts on either one? or just keep hunting for the plastic anchors?

thanks for any help
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Unread 03-24-2010, 07:49 PM   #2
Davestone
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Seems like the toggle is the strongest choice,but i'd use stainless bolts,here's a good article...http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.html
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Unread 03-24-2010, 07:53 PM   #3
Brad Denny
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Hey Lou,
Those toggles can be mean. I had to use 'em for some closet shelves in my home and discovered a little trick to get 'em started. When I used a pair of needlenose pliers behind the head of the bolt to "pull" out and force the cross member at the end of the bolt against the inside of the drywall cavity and rev up the rpms on the cordless, they would grab on.

Of course, blocking with wood behind the seat is always best practice, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
Oh, and if you can hit at least one stud, use a bit for metal to make your own hole in the side of the bench where the stud is and go with a good stainless screw for added insurance.
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Unread 03-24-2010, 08:10 PM   #4
tiredguy
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I use these benches all the time, but I don't trust the anchors. I always tie into studs, and add blocking if I have to.

But, if you're too far gone for this, the toggle or the molly would probably be fine. Just don't do any dancing on it afterwards....

p.s. You are just talking about the corner one right? I really wouldn't trust the adjustable/rectangle one on just the anchors......
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Unread 03-24-2010, 08:20 PM   #5
tilelayer
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I always add blocking whatever I have 2x8 or whatever.
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Unread 03-24-2010, 09:10 PM   #6
Lou_MA
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thanks for the replies.

yes - this is for the corner bench (BB-24).

i'd typically add blocking too, but this is just an add-on to the existing shower, not a complete rebuild or anything like that. i want to avoid demo'ing anything if i can, since the shower's in decent shape.

brad - good idea with making new holes to hit the studs. i'll keep that in mind. otherwise, i'll go with the 1/8" toggles.

thanks again
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Unread 03-24-2010, 10:03 PM   #7
Deckert
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The advice on making new holes where you need em, and then using screws/lag bolts, is right on in my book. You know for sure you have framing in the corner so you can hit lumber there. Then its just a matter of finding framing in a couple other places. I'd start out by finding studs on the other side of the shower walls (from the drywall side).
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Unread 03-25-2010, 05:54 AM   #8
Brad Denny
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After further consideration...
Drilling through tile is never fun, but it might not be a bad idea to drill holes into the tile every 1" or so along the line of predrilled holes your bench has established (inside of the area where the bench will cover) on the wall to find a stud on each side. If you can find two per side, great. Use the toggles where there are no studs with the predrilled holes in the bench, use what studs you can with bolts/screws by making new holes in the bench, and seal the unused holes with lots of caulking (deep). Need to make sure all penetrations have caulking.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 11:22 AM   #9
Lou_MA
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thanks

thanks for the advice.

i ended up using all 6 of the existing fastener locations in the bench - 2 happened to hit studs and 4 were in a stud cavity. there was 1 stud on each side of the bench that didn't line up with an existing fastener spot, so i drilled new holes for them.

another question - after i packed in the deck mud, i noticed that if i gripped the end of the "c" channel in the front of the bench (where it met the wall) i could move the corner of the bench up and down, just barely, probably not even a 1/32" - just enough to see the caulk bead along the top of the bench expand/compress a bit.

is this movement typical?

thanks again
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