tile/wood transition

[Tom]

Hi, everyone and congratulations John on the new forum. I am removing part of a non bearing wall between a room with a 3/4" hardwood floor and a kitchen. I was planning to use 1" of mud and then thinset and tile in the kitchen. Cabinets will be installed 1/2" from the edge of the tiles, and base molding against the back of the cabinets will cover the transition. A 3/4" saddle will cover the rest of the transition. Is mud the best option with the cabinets close to the edge? If so, what should I use, if anything, between the mud and the wood floor to separate the two? The subfloor is 1x4 planks, which I can change if necessary. Thanks.

[chip]

First and foremost do you have the support to handle the load? If memory serves a mud job weighs 12 to 16 lbs. per
sq. ft.

[Tom]

Flatile,
The subfloor is set on 2x8's 16" o.c. with bracing between them on a 13' span.

[John Bridge]

Hi Tom,

Welcome aboard!

Since your joists are 2x8 and not 2x10, a mud job would seem to be the way to go. An inch of good mud will provide a lot of stiffness. And actually, I think the 1x4 boards might provide more stiffness than 5/8 ply, or at least as much. I know I'm probably going to get into trouble over this.

In any case, you could screw down the planks to the joists before you do anything else. Amazing what screws will do that nails can't do.

Then a moisture barrier of 4 mil poly (not tar paper -- takes up too much space). Then nail (staple) the lath down with fasteners every six inches in both directions. And finally the mud.

I would stay off the mud a couple days, and then begin the tile installation. Use a medium grade polymer thin set. Custom's Versa Bond is sold by Home Depot, for example.

You should hold your tile installation a quarter inch back from the wood floor and then use a hardwood reducer to make the transition.

[chip]

Just curious to hear your explanation to what sounds contrary to me.

He has 2x8 joists, not 2x10 and you reccomend the mud set,which is extremely heavy.

What about deflection?

[John Bridge]

Well, the short answer is: Back when most floors were 2x8, all floors were mud set.

The long answer is that if you can get a good mud installation over a short span like that, the mud will nearly hold itself up.

Deflection has nothing to do with "dead load." It has everything to do with live load, which doesn't change, no matter which method is used. Load is simply load. Deflection is something else. Believe me, the floor will suppport the "load," and it will deflect all attempts to cause serious "deflection."

[Edited by Admin on 05-29-2001 at 09:24 PM]

[Bri]

Not to mention the weight is distibuted over the entire floor area..not in one spot.